teabag

Now you have found the alarm ECU is there any indication of it being in water, if so it's it's never going to work now. With your second fob do you know if it was a working fob and did you programme it to you alarm ECU as you did the first fob. The alarm C/L system has a inertia switch to unlock the C/L and flash the hazards if the vehicle is in a crash so this could have activated while you were off-road it has been known..

Thats good, I went from mineral and didn't use any to fully synth 5w40 and use some, also it leaked from the rocker and sump gaskets I had to tighten the bolts to stop that it still drips the sump plug need a new copper washer may be ... So in the spring I will be using semi 10w40 so hopefully no topping up required or very little and I going to save a few bob

There's no reasion not to use 10w40 semi-synth or mineral in the UK but if you find you are 'using' oil then try a grade higher. At the moment i'm using 5w40 oil but use about 500ml over the 6000 miles so will be going back to 10w40 at the next oil change and won't use any

Alarm and central locking are one unit located behind or to the side of the glovebox single button fobs are user programable thats where u have to turn on the ignition and release the bonnet switch etc etc all in about 7 seconds. When you have a look a the unit check that the antenna plug is still pushed into the socket of the unit. And Welcome to the Forum

If you look in a 1996 Land Rover Workshop Manual it states the following for a single button alarm system. "It is only possible to crank the engine when ignition is ON and alarm disabled". Therefore the engine is immobilised when the alarm system is set and remobilised when the alarm is unset.

Wrong..they all do, but then they will not be 'passive' unless they have the two button system .... therefore you would be better off reading a disco owners handbook, then you wouldn't have to waste time with three posts trying to prove your first statement.

Try re-arranging the CD's in to different slots.

All PI V8's start up with high revs but then soon drop back within 5 seconds or so to around 1000rpm the as the engine warms the revs drop down to tick-over all in about 25/30 seconds, all that is controlled by the engine ecu so you may have a prob with the ecu temp sensor, how does the engine run when it's hot and what else have you done under your "etc etc" bit, have you removed cleaned the stepper motor?

assistance pump! whats that ? ABS Modulator Block. As said just pull the ABS ECU fuse either disco or RRC.

But the most common reasion for it no working is split vacuum hose ends, so locate the hose tee piece behind the washer bottle a trace the hose in each direction. If you have to cut a split ends off, wrap a few laps of electrical tape around and it won't happen again.

Don't know, so u can tell us.

As bobtail above standard brakes are ok, also I have just replaced my front pads with EBC's standard Ultimax pads and what a difference they do grab a lot better then the LR genuine parts pads they replaced at 37,000miles, will they last as long I don't know but still highly recommeded.

What no disco's and only dependers http://www.racecar.co.uk/bellargio/introduction.htm

There's only two front bumpers for a D1, either 200 series or 300 series and you have, correct. It still should meet up with the chassis rail without any probs.

What you found is a common problem with the 200's they called fusable links, on the later 300's they are located in an engine bay fuse box. And WELCOME to the Forum

A standard front with an anti-roll bar and a rear without could give you some handling problems, it certainly would on a normal car.

The throttal actuator is a bit different for the diesel. the ecu has a different part number for petrol or diesel and manual or auto, vacuum pump, over-ride clutch and brake switches, steering and dash switches are the same, I don't know about the speed sensor though. So not plug in play.

Thats because modern "normal" cars have low profile tires for wet grip on corners and at high speed, performance is more important than a few days of snow when my Accord could not move. My neighbour with is RRS did not have the grip I had with my disco's standard Goodyear tyres even with his traction control and a locking rear diff all because of the 19" wheels and that band of rubber.

It's very rare as it's not a UK model in fact I didn't know LR did such a vehicle MPG will be the same as the RRS SC and RR SC very poor if used as it should be, but Land Rover do say a combined mpg for these two vehicles 17.7.

Either relay or seat element, sorry dont't know which is the more likely.

I would think the the vac pump would have to be removed and connected to a battery on the bench to test it. The diaphram in the throttle actuator could be faulty, I surpose you have to suck on it to test that one, I believe the ECU is reliable so doesn't give problems but it can always be a first.

Most oil manufactures have a search facility on their web site like Castrol's below. Get your self a Haynes Manual for you vehicle as that will show step by step how to carry out a service. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolhomepage.do?categoryId=3205

ABS was standard in 1995 on the ES, standard in 1996 on the XS and ES, 1997 no change other then the special editions of that year and may or may not have ABS, and standard 1998 on the XS, GS and ES.

Yes/No, it depends on the year of the classic... the 3.5 and 200 both vehicles the heater is the same, motor/fan is removed from the side of the heater box.

Try raising the front of the disco so the expansion tank is higher, or unclip and lift it higher or park facing up a hill. U may have to drain some of the coolent and then refill very slowly as it says in my Haynes manual. I had to bleed my RRC facing up a hill (my drive) to get air out of the matrix, no problems with the D1 though