mickeyw

Yes, this took me by surprise the first time I had a play with my own TIG. Small (relatively) bottles plus paying for it yourself seems to make it go faster too When I was welding at work we had the big bottles plus a spare to hand, so I never really took a lot of notice of gas consumption.

TIG is great all the time you can work the right way up, and preferably sitting down. If you need to weld underneath anything (car, trailer etc) a MIG is going to be a whole lot easier. AS FF has mentioned, Justin on The Fabrication Series is a great teacher and very passionate about his TIG. Another good channels to watch is Welding Tips and Tricks Oh , and I'll highly recommend R-Tech Welding for their great kit and fantastic customer service.

A friend took his family up there recently and drove the NC500 in his 90, and Sankey with roof tent combo. I know he booked a proper site for their first night, but rough camped it most other nights. From his photos I don't think they ran into many people at all.

This image show the other wiper would be parked right where their camera is.

I just noticed those roof rails. It wasn't until I zoomed in that I realised they weren't alpine lights. Are they grab handles, roof luggage lashing points, or an exposed part of an integral roll frame that doubles up as the first two ideas? From another angle I am seeing light sabre stowage positions Either way I think a fair bit of crud will end up in there. These waistline rails look like that load securing track.

Isn't that DA9017 reference a Britpart code? If it is I guess that means they are the distributor, and probably supplying most of the UK (and maybe further) market. I would have thought that would mean the price isn't going to vary enormously between vendor.

We used to use stove enamel to paint the smoke box door on the front of a steam engine. That gets pretty hot, but it still needed a recoat from time to time.

If you fit any 2nd row seat that sits further aft than a standard one, the rear upper seatbelt mount really needs moving rearward. I need to do this on my 110. To get an ideal position relative to the occupant's shoulder the belt mounting will need to be in the area of the sliding rear windows. I have a pair of front seats in my second row, with good legroom. You do have to watch the head room situation. Tall people sit with their heads against the roof lining. I have an idea @Ed Poore may have altered his upper seat belt mounts. He fitted L322 seats front and rear in his 110. Maybe he'll pop up with some info.

This is a solid case LT85 I can see. Take note that there are two variants of LT85, a solid case one and a 'split case' also known as the 'lightweight version. The former has a smooth casing and the latter a ribbed casing that bolts together down the centre line, hence being referred to as split case.' The big hex plug you can see is home to a plastic oil filter. The split case version doesn't have this

If anything the Merc G Wagen, or G class as they now call it, looks just as boxy as the Series 2/3/90/110/Defender. It emerged in the late 70's, about the same time as LR started making coil sprung boxes. I've yet to hear Daimler Benz complaining, or being complained about in this regard. This whole case is definitely aimed at Sir Jim and is a sour grapes job for sure. I doubt they believed he would go this far with his plans. Disregarding the obscene cost of the G, Mercedes has managed to evolve the model underneath and inside, yet keeping the outer shape largely untouched. I imagine their market is focussed closer to where LR would like to be, although I wonder how many they sell at that price. If LR were that serious about the shape and heritage I am sure they could have done the same.

Good heavens! You are pretty demanding 😁 Any towing capabilities in mud will be down to the truck's own weight (to get the power down), the tyres (unlikely the factory spec tyre will be quite what you are hoping for), and the goopiness of that particular mud. Our reverred Defenders don't fare all that well at this task in factory guise either. Wading is also an issue that is more complex than whether the carpets and electrickery can shrug it all off. As we all know the Defender lets enough water in to keep it on the bottom of pretty much any body of water. Newer trucks that have better door seals are more likely to float, and hence get washed downstream. A friend's Rangey got washed off a river crossing path due to strong currents and driver error. It took a couple of days servicing and was back on the road again. It was Mazda diesel powered btw . It's unlikely that any modern vehicle, 4x4 or otherwise could be fixed that easily or in the middle of nowhere.

I can't believe I never saw this thread before. My storage box is near identical in outer shape as Nick's. Construction is a frame of 25mm angle, skinned in 1mm steel. I happened to rescue some stainless piano hinges many moons ago and the made a perfect lid hinge. The lid is just flat steel, although the hinge stiffens it enormously. It's held shut by a 90 degree turn 3-point latch - nice and easy to operate with gloves on. It is removable in theory, although it's far too heavy to lift out without emptying first. The top edge is secured by M8 bolts that fix to nut plates secured behind the capping rail. The inward face has 2 lashing eyes that are ratchet strapped to the load bay eyes. I just found a rather basic drawing I made of the profile. Maybe someone will find it useful.

These door handles are NLA, unless you're lucky enough to find one in some very obscure place. The reason they go slack is because an internal torsion spring breaks. There's nothing to adjust in there, but they do get full of general dirt and grime. As Neil says, you can drill out the rivets to get inside, then reassemble with small nuts and bolts. My dad helped me with the first one of these I ever did, and he made me a new spring from some music wire he had knocking about. I need to do the same for my current 110's front doors, but I'll have to make my own springs now. The latches still work fine, but it's just another annoying rattle.

The second video is private John 😧

Is there a subliminal message they're trying to send with that Camel colour scheme?

I've read of guys in the USA using this as a modern alternative to the Tdi. They seem to be getting quite keen on the idea of small diesels in Defenders. I have an idea East Coast Rover Co has written about such a conversion too.

Pete, I really don't like the look of the bolt-on-top demisters. It's a personal thing I am part way through (i think I've been working on it as long as you have yours) a home brew solution of the dash side vents. The LR variation of it is pretty basic really. I'm using 20mm plastic conduit, but I've seen others use 15mm copper pipe. Hopefully the combination of methods will have a good effect.

Mine have arrived Trial fit time later.

Google Hozan P706. Not cheap and not the most available in the UK (mine came from USA via a travelling colleague) I have had a pair of these for several years now, and find them to be the most universal crimp tool (for uninsulated terminals) I have come across. I am sure one of the elders on here directed me towards them.

When I had my 2.25 petrol 88" I was always chasing loose manifold nuts until... My local parts man who was an invaluable resource and walking LR encyclopedia could get all sorts of oddities for his customers. One of these was, as Fridge said, studs with different threads at each end. Course UNC into the manifold and a longer fine UNF section for the nut, in stainless. With these I used BZP a single coil spring washer and BZP steel nut. This provided good tightening capability and better resistance to loosening. Note: never use stainless nuts with stainless screws anywhere near an exhaust. They tend to gall and will be worse to undo than the most corroded mild steel equivalent. The original LR design of a long brass nut seems good in that it doesn't corrode, and it doesn't leave any exposed stud thread to go all grotty, but I could never tighten them enough to stay done up for long. I think the brass nut was susceptible to too much expansion through heating and cooling cycles.

i had my Ninety's (3.9) TD rad recored when I realised it had become bunged up. This was done by a lovely chap at Wessex Radiators, who were recommended by Fridge. They are a proper old school type place. I plumbed the oil cooler in just because the oil lines on the serpentine engine were a direct fit My 110 (4.2) also has the same type of rad, and doesn't currently make use of the oil cooler. Being a V belt engine it's easy to remove the cooler circuit.

Those look like they are from the underside of the dash, and therefore 100mm (4") diameter. No speaker of this size makes much bass to begin with. The best option is not just to fit good quality speakers, but also larger diameter ones. It is possible (I've done it) to fit 5.25" units in this position if you don't mind a bit of dash surgery. Good speakers are generally quite deep, and this location doesn't fare to well it that department with the wiper motor in the way. I fitted some 5.25" Kicker speakers as replacements and am very pleased with the sound output. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kicker-DS-13cm-5-25-130mm-200-Watts-2-Way-Car-Coaxial-Front-Rear-Door-Speakers/174232849534

Ditto.

I'm not sure I e ever seen a manual as such, but I have a recollection that I may have read something like it as part of a body panel repair/replacement instruction sheet.

This is the situation I am coming up to, only mine are 255/85R16 flavour. I've been looking at the Toyo Open Country MT as it is one of few brands available in my size, and they're lots cheaper than another set of BFGs.