mickeyw

I enlarged the original speaker holes in my lower dash, and with the aid of some vinyl covered MDF spacers able to fit a pair of 5.25" Kicker speakers. They are very shallow for the diameter and put out some very good sounds. These run off an elderly Sony bluetooth head unit. This is all I have in my 110 CSW, although I think some rear mounted speakers may get added. That way the kids can hear the tunes and I can still hear SWMBO https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kicker-DS-13cm-5-25-130mm-200-Watts-2-Way-Car-Coaxial-Front-Rear-Door-Speakers/174232849534?

Thanks Ross. I forget not everyone is familiar with these abbreviations

Wouldn't mirrors on the wing tops be more period correct? And probably only on the driver side too. ISTR mirrors were once an optional extra. Of course having mirrors is far preferable for day to day driving

I have a couple of these reels I use in the garage. One is snaked around the roof trusses to get air across to the other side of the garage. The other is handy if I need to run an airline into the house for any reason. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Parkside-Pneumatic-Hose-Drum-20m-air-compressor-fabric-hose/302795253471 This retractable one has been very useful, but alas it seems NLA. Was only abouyt £15 when I bought it. Similaer ones are now around £35 https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-10m-air-hose-reel/p/079393167520900

I have a set of Hozan P706 crimpers. They are good allrounders for many types of crimp terminal used n housings. https://www.ebay.com/p/2255560084 They are a bit spendy, but search around. I was lucky in buying a pair from a US website for around $30 and got them sent freepost to our office out there. Next time my colleague from US flew over he stuck them in his suitcase.

This ^^^ A mate fitted one in his 101 . It's even noisier when you sit on top of the damned thing.

Actual size varies quite a bit on manufacturer. My 255s are the original style BFG MTs and do measure up at 33". I have been considering the Toyo Open Country MT for when I need to replace these. They aren't short of tread but rather perished. The Toyo is one of the few styles available as a 255/85R16, They have less tread depth than the BFG when new but are a good deal cheaper.

I thought 285/75x16 were about 33" too. I run 255/85x16 on my 110 CSW and the gearing (standard 1:1.4 transfer) is spot on for towing. I was also going to say that I feel a Trepador wasn't the ideal tyre for towing, but I have just looked it up and can see what @landroversforever has said about there being a far milder treaded version. It looks more like a regular mud terrain that the challenge scene version I am familiar with. The second one is only rated to 65MPH! I'd have thought a 35" tyre would be rather tall geared. Also you'll be having to hang your tow hitch down a bit further to suit.

Check the freewheel selector is secure. When worn they can have a habit of disengaging. The one my mate had on his challenge truck had an R-clip through the shaft to prevent unintended movement. Also check the circlip holding the brake assembly together in in good nick, else you might find yourself searching for little balls in the mud. There is a conversion kit to ditch the circlip and add replace it with a big washer and a screw into the end of the shaft.

I also have two Defender front seats in the second row. I wouldn't say the gap between them is exactly comfortable for sleeping purposes, but it's handy for getting long objects inside the truck. My seats are built onto individual sub frames that permit them to be folded forward (once the headrest is removed)

Well as we're all joining in, here is the toy I picked up for the children to play with and maintain the Landrover abode.

Hey foul play! No announcements like that without pictures

I had forgotten about that indicator, but I do now recall the one on our 90 TD never seemed to do anything. But yes, it's meant to be a 'service due' indicator. My 2002 Merc has something similar on the filter housing. That seems equally useful 😉

The Turbo D engine used the same filter housing as the 2.5 petrol and NA Diesel. Here's the canister and here's a picture of the whole shabungle - hoses, adapters, brackets and screws. Hopefully this will help. You should at least have some bolt holes where it all fixes.

If you don't have a welder I'm not sure how much you could do to improve matters yourself. Are you more concerned with cosmetics or structural integrity? My door was considerably worse structurally before I did anything about it. It couldn't take a spare wheel, but it kept most of the rain out. The repairs that door needs aren't too difficult, but will certainly be time consuming.

I'd be surprised in it was straight onto the ally. I once used an etch product that was a mildly yellow translucent shade., so it wasn't too obvious was there. I believe car paint used to me mostly cellulose before 2-pack came along.

As Daan says, you can. But it's a F heavy lump you'll be removing, and brilliantly unbalanced and a complete pig to handle. Have fun

I'm working normal hours on my day job, but from home. With the distraction of 2 school-age children it is not easy to focus and be productive. The fact that it is beautifully sunny outside isn't helping - it's perfect weather for working on cars, and there are plenty of non-urgent jobs the 110 could do with, never mind the Range Rover resto. I did however find a bit of time at the weekend to work on my elderly and tired mini excavator. It needs a bit of TLC and maintenance, and until now I haven't managed anything in the year since I bought it. So far I've splashed some paint around it, rebuilt the alternator with new regulator and diodes, replaced the ignition switch, made a new throttle lever. I also replaced the oil in the drive reduction boxes. The EP90 smelled more burned that anything I've ever drained out of a diff. Next job is replace the leaking cylinder seals, then the hyd oil and filter, and rebush the very worn king post. That'll be fun as I'd say some herbert has had a welder near it. In between all this I've managed a spot of industrial level gardening with said machine 😄

My recollection of the Argocat does not permit me to see one being used as a powered wheel barrow! I saw that Sheppach thing you pictured advertised on Aldi the other day. I'd say it is somewhat bigger than I think the tracked one above appears to be. How much muck do you need to shift per day? There must be some old things like this knocking around in France???

I have an idea I have seen this before, quite some while ago...maybe on Pirate?

Indeed he has packed up making cross members. I found him very pleasant and accommodating. You are right though, he had health problems alright. I think the attitude may not have been the cross members themselves, but the people that wanted them. As a one man small business you're either on the phone or your working on product - you can't do both. So many folk mess you about, complain when you don't answer the phone, complain when you're late and can't understand when you don't keep custom made items in stock. I can understand him getting fed up, but it's a shame you got the sharp end of his tongue. His product was excellent.

Not saying it can't be done, but I wouldn't want to arc weld a chassis repair. From a skill requirement perspective MIG is so much easier, especially as you will need to weld some sections while upside down. As with any welding method, if you've never done it before you will need to practice on something that doesn't matter first, and it sounds like your friendly blacksmith is the right place to find some scraps. Practice, practice, practice until you are happy with the result. Practice welding the right way up, then vertical and upside down. Depending on the quality of welder wire speed may need a tweak when doing the latter two. Before and during, Youtube is your friend for advice. My first MIG welder was pretty cheap and crappy, but I did a LOT of work with it and learned even more.

I had one like that from Aldi. At 3.7v 10w it wasn't going to make it like daylight, although it lit the garden up quite well just now. It's a typical LED cool white, it's excellent for under a car or lighting up a very large tent. The battery might last 2-3 hours max - it says it's 2200mah. The Makita light is a completely different colour temp. It's very warm white but offers similar wide angle ( tests in garage make me think around 150 degrees) and range of light to the Workzone lamp. The Makta label says power dissipation 12x 510mw, luminous intensity 270LM. With a 3ah battery I've run it for at least 6 hours and lost just 1 of 4 LEDs on the battery meter, so battery performance wise the blue one is far better. What is not shown in the Makita details is the adjustable webbing strap with hook that it comes with. I am trying to add a photo but Google photos on my phone doesn't want to upload. Gimme back my Windows phone 😕

You are comparing two rims that sit a fair bit inboard, compared to say the generic aftermarket 7x16 modular rim. I can't imagine the difference being light and day. I run 255/85R16s on 7x16 modular rims (can't see any offset figure stamped on them) and get excellent lock. That's to say the stop bolt couldn't really be adjusted in any further, and the tyres don't contact anything except on full articulation. My 110 is easier to get into a Tescos car park space than our Merc B class! By contrast, the way LR despatched vehicles fitted with 7x16 Boost alloys (sit MUCH further inboard) results in an horrific turning circle, and has in the past resulted in very a embarrassing trailer maneuvering incident (110 with 235/85R16s). After that day I got under with the spanners and was able to improve things a fair bit without any tyre rub. I think you really need to achieve at least 25-30mm outward spacing to make any significant improvement in available lock. This is about the thickness of a lot of wheel spacers I think, but I am not a fan of such things.

James, I read somewhere that you've bought into Makita tools. I recently bought one of these and am very pleased with it. It last for hours and hours on a 3Ah battery. In fact I have yet to flatten one with it.