mickeyw

For that kinda money you could always buy yourself a cheap MIG welder and teach yourself how to do the job, and be quids in. This is assuming you don't already know to weld.😉

This would be the first 1/16" BSP fitting I have come across. The designation PC6-M5 says to me Ø6 pipe and M5 thread.

Sometimes manufacturers use what look like generic plugs, but they like to complicate matters by throwing in an non-standard orientation tang . I've been caught out by this in the past 😕

Doesn't @PaulMc on here know all about connectors used on LR stuff?

I notice that JeffR hasn't been seen in quite a while, otherwise I'd have expected him to be adding to these tales of gore. Hope he's OK. I recall he wasn't in the best of health.

If you want really simple and plan to make it yourself, the Pivlock style show here is pretty good, but it opens independently to the door. I prefer the Mantec style which has been widely copied, just like the one in the Withams auction. I bought mine from Foundry 4x4 for not much more £.

Oooh, very interesting. Subscribed

This is coming along so well James. Fantastic work.

Ross, you take shims OUT as they wear to add swivel preload, hence it being a problem if you can't have a stack of shims in there when new 😉

It's been at least 15 years since I rebushed my old 90 in this way. I had a similar problem (no shims needed) and ended up fitting 2 thrust washers in each side. This wasn't ideal as I found myself having to make extra shims up to get the preload right. 1mm steel IIRC.

And for the rest of the engine I'd use Graphogen (graphited engine assembly paste). I was put into this stuff years ago by Richard Turner (Turner Engineering). He builds all his engines with it. Like the cam lube Fridge mentioned it will not run off over time, so you'll get good first start protection. Also wear some nitrile gloves, as the Graphogen will make your hands very black 😁

So I have just discovered! I recently bought an Allmakes petrol pump for the 110, (because a. there don't seem to be any genuine items about, and b. I thought Allmakes was a reputable brand ) only to discover that it had been built with the +ve and -ve wires back to front internally. The pump ran when I plugged it in, but no fuel came out. Reversed the wires and hey presto it worked. Not the hardest problem to resolve when you have a tool for removing crimps from their housings, but annoying and very indicative of non-existent quality control. What is the world of aftermarket LR parts coming to? Are there any non-genuine brands we can trust at all?

If I recall correctly, there's a switch near the point the diff lock linkage enters the transfer box housing. It's a one-wire spade connector terminal. If it's not been connected you should be able to see the wire dangling near by. On a right hand drive vehicle this will be more or less in line with the handbrake lever, but a tad further forward.

Just thinking some more, I reckon you could remove the wins up window elements from a standard door, add a bottom channel and some window runners, drill some drain holes and fit sliding glass. I am saying this based on my familiarity with the structure of the early lift handle, wind up window style of door. Not sure how much push button doors differ in this respect.

Looks like you've made good progress Ralph. My only achievements have been unplanned works. Replacement of the 110's fuel pump that died very suddenly, and clean/overhaul the handbrake drum and expander.

I'm sure that if you took a couple of brave pills you could chop up your nice late style doors, and modify them into what you describe You could keep your push button handles and central locking

Justin is a superb teacher. My missus was watching one of his videos over my shoulder and agreed he comes across really well. No surprise he now runs a welding school. If you want an excuse to go to Vegas..... I'm afraid I tried with Urchfab, I really did, because the subject matter is good,. Alas I just couldn't listen to him any longer. I think this is what I need. Any recommendations @sgo70? I reckon I'm gonna need some reading glasses soon, and have been struggling with seeing what I'm welding for a while.

I have one of the generic ones on a stand that you find for pretty cheap on eblag. Yes, you need a good air supply. I have a 1.1kw Hydrovane that keeps up reasonably well as long as you don't blast continuously. I have another compressor that I had planned to run in tandem for blasting, but haven't felt the need. As for visibility, if you don't run some kind of extraction you won't see a thing after a few moments 😎

I was thinking about the demountable back actor to go behind our Ford 3000. After a fair amount of reading I realised that they are quite a pain to reposition. Consider you have to clamber off the digging seat, get in driving seat to move the tractor, then back upto the digging seat. A mini digger can get into much tighter spaces too. In the end I picked up a rather tired 1.5t excavator for £3700. It's been near perfect for my occasional needs although there are times I wish it was a bit bigger. 2.5t machines seem to go for a lot more though. Can't find a picture of it at the moment.

The good old head gasket issue 🙄 Still dogging Rover all the way into the Freelander era.

I was in China recently visiting tool making companies with a colleague. This mould produces plastic pallets. The gantry that lifts it was marked 40 tonne.

Any car, however uncool, does redeem itself a fair bit if it was built with a V8 engine. SD1s were a classic example of the styling of their time, rusted like nobody's business, had a pretty shocking choice of paint colours, yet had this awesome sounding engine. I've never driven one, but when we were young my mate's grandparents had a V8 Vanden Plas model, and I always looked forward to the rare occasions I got to ride in it

The Britpart ones are indeed very good 😮. Very durable, fit well, and not had any sweaty bum problems. Only a small downside is that the base and back is all one cover, which can make lifting a seat base out a bit of a nuisance cos the base cover falls down over the battery or cubby box, depending which side you're faffing about with. My 110 has Exmoor trim covers in the front that I bought 2nd hand. These are equally well fitting and the base and back are separate covers. The back also covers the head rest 👍

Ah, I see a theme here (I just replied to your CDL thread) My 90 had lift handle doors, so such modifications were only ever going to be home brew 😁. These doors have much slimmer door trims, so less space to squeeze things behind them. A mate had a pair of damaged doors off his early model Vectra lying about with the trim panels removed. Seeing such slim window motors led me to successfully have a go at grafting them into my 90's doors. Lots of hobnobs were consumed while figuring this out 🍪

The generic remote CDL kit I bought for my 90 many moons ago was made by Spal, and sold through Sempal in the UK. Alas these OEM quality parts are not longer available in the UK as far as I've been able to determine. I think your options now are to adapt original LR bits, or buy a cheap locking kit of fleabay. I know @Retroanaconda bought the latter for his 90, years back. Perhaps he can give some feedback on how it's stood up to life in a Landy after all this time. Now if only I had time to fit a kit to my 110 CSW.....