mickeyw

As Snagger said ^^^ Some years ago I had a tyre shop decline to look at my RRC's tracking. They made some excuse like 'we can't do Landrovers'. I suspected this might be because they were worried the rod ends being stuck solid, so I mentioned that all the rod ends were new (which was why I wanted the tracking checked) and would move freely. With this new information they had a sudden change of heart and jumped on the job. I can understand their concern, having spent a great deal of time myself trying to remove old joints prior to replacement.

Crikey - three years have passed, and I've still not re-decked the trailer. I've not needed to use it to transport vehicles, but there are many holes in the floor and sides that let things like aggregate fall through. I don't think I'd dare carry more than one bulk bag in its current condition. The ply got hijacked and used for something else - in fact some of it was used for a smaller trailer, and actually some of that has rotted out already. I can't remember what we coated that with, but it was some kind of outdoor wood preservative, and it has not protected the edges at all well. I think the old floor on my Ifor was decent birch ply (£50+ per sheet), as opposed to lesser WPB, which no doubt was how it came to last so much longer. Unfortunately I suspect the pukka £££ phenolic coated board is going to be hard to beat. The Ifor is now in desperate need of a complete overhaul. It looks distinctly scruffy, rather like those tatty old cars that have 'pull me' written all over them. I don't use it much, mainly local trips, so the cost is hard to justify...never mind finding time work on it.

235/85x16 is well within the scope of a 7J16. BFGoodrich recommend a rim width of 6" - 7" for a 235/85/R16 all-terrain tyre. I run 255/85x16 on 7J16 rims and they're fine.

When it comes to an engine's ability to clean itself, I would have thought that the harder you drive it, the better the cleaning process. Engine revs at cruising speed can't affect much apart from fuel consumption. I am really just thinking of an engine that gets a good workout must see hotter exhaust gasses and everything else, which will consequently burn the crud out better. Maybe this is a rather old school idea, I don't know... I realise that it does bear some validity when it comes to DPFs though. My mum's FL2 gets a clogged DPF from time to time, but she only ever tootles around, with very few longer trips. The garage's fix seems to involve giving it a proper wake up. In my mind this means you end up using more fuel just to keep the engine clean, which kinda negates the whole driving frugally principle...

Well the relay is allegedly rated at 140A, and the fuse at 120A. The relay still switches 12V measured with a multimeter. That's what made me wonder if the PTC had died. Do I recall reading somewhere that they're self regulating? The snail shell shaped housing looks surprisingly similar to a Defender one. Will see if I can take a photo later. Without removed the wing though it's hard to tell whether it will actually fit, and I don't have a spare Defender heater box to offer it up to to either.

I pretty much copied what TSD did re positioning. My electric heater element seems to have died, or at least it no longer produces any discernible heat. However having replaced my thermostat a little while ago I'm finding the V8 now warms up pretty quickly. Now the cabin of the 110 reaches toasty temps in less than the 10 minutes it takes to get to work. I've consequently found little incentive to take the heater out to see WWW. I have obtained a blower fan and motor from a D1 that looks like it might graft to the Defender heater box. Initial tests show it might make a good hovercraft

Good work Ruu and great write up. Glad to see you have made it this far. That wood etching looks like you have your dad's next birthday present sorted

Essential you get a copy in the workshop Ross, just to remind you what a complete Defender looks like ? Aside from the pee taking, that looks a superb piece of work.

Some years ago I had an opportunity to drive a friend's RRC with the Mazda SL35T, V8 spec 4HP22 and 1:1 trf box. It certainly wasn't short of go, or short legged. I imagine a 1:1.4 or 1:1.2 trf ratio would have not suited this engine nearly as well. Some while later it cracked a flex plate, resulting in loss of drive. Hopefully that was nothing to do with me (eek), as the owner was inclined to frequently tow large trailers with a lead foot. There's one hazard of having a lot of welly on tap

Subscribing Even though it's diseasel

ACCURACY!!!!!!!!!!! The complete lack of - this is what stopped me reading the comics. If James started another LR mag I'd read it. Sorry for O/T

Agreed, and marketed in a more retail friendly way. Corroless looks like the kind of business that just supplies industrial users. I've used CIO, and I like it. It also stays on your skin for days ?

I am steadily moving over to the PCL XF/Euro (high flow) type. PCL actually market the XF type as a higher flow rated fitting. I've used the older long style PCL fitting for years, and they've all been leaking for some time now. For air tools that have high demand you want the best flow possible, hence my decision to change mine. As mentioned above these are becoming increasingly popular, and IMO they've come down in price a lot. If you're concerned about compatibility with your friends' systems, just carry a homemade adapter (1 male old type screwed into 1 female short type).

What Western said ^^^

Well therein lies some confusion. Depending where you look, some resources refer to PRC6999 as a 14 CUX, and others as a 14CU. One constant is that they all state 3.9 fitment. Agreed on the date code - Jan (month 1) 1989. I don't know what the difference is between the two, other than the 14CUX superceding the 14CU. The plug appears to be the same, but the PCB clearly isn't. Are they interchangeable? Presumably the later version has features its predecessor doesn't???

I recently acquired a V8 ECU. It's badged Land Rover, PRC6999 and date coded 0189, which makes it IMO an early 3.9 unit. My plan for this unit is as a test bed for fitting a socket for the tuning chip. I appreciate this is not an easy task, hence practicing on a unit I am not currently dependent on. My reason for this mod is so I can program a chip with the correct R map for a 4.2 that's lurking in my shed. I opened this up, and am now a little puzzled. The innards don't look like any 14CUX I have seen before, socketed or non-socketed. I know the flapper 3.5 ECUs look very different in their silver boxes, so obviously it's not for one of those. The tune map number R1828 doesn't correspond with any listed on Steve Sprint's site either. There is also a mystery label 'Gammel ECU' on the outside, but this means nothing to me or popular search engines. Can any of our resident V8 oracles shed any light on what spec this item actually is? TIA

As above re BFGs. I'm still trying to wear out my KM1s ? They're excellent all round tyres. Good road manners for a MT, exceptionally long lasting and shrug off damage well. At 8 years old they're starting to perish. I expect the KM2 will perform at lest as well. I've heard they're quieter running than their predecessor. The creepy crawlers from what I've heard (from owners) are not that nice in the road.

I had an LED work lamp on the back of my 90. They are supposedly sealed, that is to say reasonably weather tight. After two or three years the inside of the lens is distinctly foggy. Wherever there is a heating and cooling cycle, especially present in headlights, moisture is drawn in and it condenses, eventually causing degradation of the reflector and lens fogging. Moisture always manages to get in, but getting it out again is always a problem.

Afraid I don't know Ross. I didn't realise there were different offsets of the same width rim on such common wheels..

I have modulars (7J16) on my 110, and must say that the available steering lock is a million miles better than with factory alloys or steels. When you start maneuvering trailers in tight spaces the difference really makes itself known. The only way I'd run factory wheels is with spacers, but I'm not a big fan of them.

So this is what the German's are up to next - filling gap in their portfolio. Could the 'new Defender' take a similar direction? It would certainly fit in with JLR's premium brand identity? http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/mercedes/90977/new-mercedes-x-class-arrives-and-the-premium-pick-up-is-born

I have heated mirrors on my 110, but have never heard of anyone adding power adjustment. A Transit or Sprinter probably has suitable sized units with power adjustment, but I'd hate to think what they might cost. Could you rip the guts from a Disco 1 powered mirror and engineer a Defender mirror onto it? Depends what resources you have to hand. We have become rather spoiled these days with modern car gadgetry, but I agree it's darned handy ? My motivation for electric windows on my 90 was mostly for operating the passenger side. Once you have a cubby box the opposite side winder is out of reach. Need to do the 110 now...

I'm currently using Buzzweld's Chassis In One. Very pleased with the results. Very quick drying too.

They smashed a window, attached a strap to the steering wheel and pulled it over. All in broad daylight! Apparently this is not the first instance of this MO in the area.

Please keep your eyes open for BFG Mud Terrains on Shogun alloys. Stolen yesterday (19th Oct) East Grinstead. Not mine, but a friend's. They wrecked the whole truck just for the wheels :/