LandyManLuke

Crikey Re-enforces my decision to make my own out of box section. If i'd done welding like that i'd have cut it up and put it in the bin!!

With regards to the sounds on PC navigator, they're all sat in a directory, they're wav files. They're not that intuitively named, is there some sort of standard? what do the tom-tom file names look like?

Road Vehicles lighting regulation act 1989 "No rear fog lamp shall be fitted to any vehicle so that it can be illuminated by the application of any braking system on the vehicle" link

fit a tdi

try posting on www.mig-welding.co.uk, there's people on there using old machines, and people who can get spares.

The LT230 and ZF 4 speed were standard fit '86 to '89 ish, with the 3.5efi, so you shouldn't have any trouble. I'm not sure what the ratio in the RR LT230 was, not sure if any studs/bolts need moving/omitting, i've never split the LT230/ZF pair i have sat in the rangie. Edit: I really should stop making cups of coffee whilst posting

Has the boat got a remoted sensed alternator regulator? that's the proper way to do it with split charging diodes. The charging voltage of a battery is critical, for proper performance. The 0.7v voltage drops means the batteries aren't properly charged and won't reach their full potential, in terms of output, or longevity. Yuh split charge diodes work, like you say, loads of people have and do use them. They're just a bit of a bodge in my opinion, especially when used without a remote sense alternator. I agree with your first point - being a pedant, if the connection resistances were particularly high, moving the connection point could have an effect, but they shouldn't be, so connection position is, or at least should be, irrelevant.

I agree, to a point. BUT blocking diodes are a 100% no-no, the 0.7v voltage drop across them is not acceptable, IMHO.

get a multimeter in there and you'll be able to track down any current draws.

If you just wire them in parallel, you lose the ability to jump start yourself if you leave your lights on etc. There's also the matter of low current oscillations between the two batteries - who knows if that's a real-world problem? I've got a VSR fitted, I like that i can leave the stereo/PC/worklights on with no worry of flattening the cranking battery.

Your FIA switch should be connected to the stop solenoid wire. this will kill the engine just like the connection in the coil circuit would on a petrol. The other connection on the FIA switch should have a resistor to ground, and be connected to the alternator side of the main terminal. There's not much in the earth/live debate really. If you put a switch in the earth you can undo the postive terminal without the fear of the spanner shorting on the battery box. A lot of it will depend on how the vehicle is wired. Some people put the switch in the earth as they see that as the simplest way to switch off 'everything'.

The obvious guess would be an 3.9 Rv8 and 4speed ZF. I think you can just make out the shifter in what would have been the gearstick gaiter, it's not a great picture.

ask on mig-welding.co.uk, there's probably someone on there who's tried one.

Well AU is a Norwich plate, not that that's actually much help.....

you can MIG aluminium, I've done some. you'll need to change the gas and wire, as well as the liner. It's certainly not as neat as TIG, and there's a nack to it, but it's definitely do-able.

the forum should do it for you. alternatively, download Microsoft's XP Resizer Powertoy, it's a nice simple effective tool.

I run Redex through the tank every now and again, mainly because that's what i find on the shelf of the petrol station. I definitely think it has an effect, if i was organised enough, i'd add it all the time. As the price of diesel goes up, and the price of redex stays the same, it's proportionally cheaper to use - i may have just convinced myself to use it more.

Just beware if you buy an unknown brand from an unknown boxmover, you could come unstuck when (rather than if) it comes to spare/replacement parts availability and service. Pays yer money, takes yer choice etc etc.

Yup it was (at least) part funded by the DARPA program, the same program that's developing unmanned autonomous vehicles etc.

we've got an extendable draw bar on one of the boat trailers. never had any problem with it, but then it's not been on the road much. Saves dunking the tow vehicle in the water when launching/recovering.

He's not talking about the screws. On some types you just turn the black section in the middle!!

As a control & systems Engineer/graduate (ok, almost, give me 2 months) I really am impressed with this.

As above. you definitely have an earthing problem. Continue as it is and you'll have a handbrake/fire problem too!

Just cable tie it to the axle tube, leaving a large enough loop to allow the axle and a-frame to move without drawing the pipe taught. you should be able to your cable ties to get the loop to lay away from the exhaust.

No harm in running a new wire from the alternator to the batteries. The original wiring is from the alternator, to the post on the starter motor, and then to the battery. You're right to be concerned about the voltage, the battery needs 13.9 - 14.4 volts across it.