LandyManLuke

No, clockwise to advance, for any given point, the fuel pump will be 'ahead' a bit - so advancing the timing.

A worn CV will normally produce a Clackety-clackety-clack, more pronounced when in reverse.

Works well with petrol and a lighter, if you're 'in the field' and stuck, as we were.

gasket, and rtv sealant, make sure it's not going to squeeze out into the pump chamber though.

they're a bit expensive though! They also have a habit for getting hot enough to melt the solder on the ram chip holders, apparently. :s

bit more info here

in a word, good.

I've just done my 200tdi, literally fired it up an hour ago. The hardest part will be getting the bolt and damper off as mentioned. charged battery and 6 flicks of the starter against a breaker bar sorted mine. impact wrench didn't touch it. first time I've done it, replaced belt, tensioner, all gaskets, and a few timing case bolts i wasn't happy with as they came out.

Try ebuyer - think they're still shipping. You'll get a pretty decent one for £600.

Vacuum has nothing to do with the running of a tdi - vacuum is generated by the pump that runs off the cam shaft, not by the induction system. If you had a leak between the turbo and the inlet manifold you'd struggle to attain boost, as it would be leaking away. if anything you might get black smoke due to not getting enough air to match the fuel injected - but i'd expect the leaking boost to also affect the pump, so you'd end up with less fuel, less air, and under performance as a result. What are the glow plugs like? tdis have a good reputation for easy starting but if it's starting on 2 or 3 pots it could be those glow plugs have failed. FWIW, I have had very similar symptoms to you, I in fact had 3 out of glow plugs failed. Ultimately, the belt shed a dozen or so teeth and I've been doing a belt replacement, so haven't had it running again since. I wonder if the belt had stretched at all, retarding the timing a bit and causing the cold start problem, like you, once it was running it was pretty ok. I'd say, check the glow plugs, and who knows, maybe it's worth checking when the belt was last done, so you don't have to buy new push rods et al like i've had to. don't mean to scare you - could be completely unrelated.

Nope, and once you've stripped it down, you'd be a fool not to just replace it and be done with the job.

i built a crimper to fit in a vice. i hung off a test crimp and i'm 18st so that's good enough for me.

sealed beam to halogen etc is lots of (rusty) screws. side light off. indicator off. trim panel off. headlight out. probably replace rusty bowl whilst you're there, with a nice plastic one. put it all back together again, probably with new/non rusty screws.

an impact gun is the best way forward, if you don't have acces to one, you can gain a similar effect by using a socket and t-bar (or similar) and using a hammer to deliver the impact - exactly the same theory, the impulse moves the bolt but has less effect on the inertia of the pulley/pump. Having the belt as tight as possible will obviously help. I took the pump off, bracket and all, and did the above on the bench.

Great write up Ian, I guess what needs looking at is something like the parameters of a PID controller, this would cure the overshoot, though i'm guessing from the screen shots there's no option to tune the controller parameters megasquirt uses. any pictures of the idle valve? definitely one for the to-do list!

I thought I read somewhere about there not being enough room in the head near no.5, no idea if that's 100% accurate though.

What rims is he currently running? what size tyres? turning the rim is going to give you a pretty large offset, if he's only currently running standard rims then a set of modulars may well cure the problem. I'd echo Paul's comments, the next thing is whether they're for road use or not. the legalities & quality of workmanship are very much worth considering

what form factor is your motherboard?

Before you dive in, be aware that the light switch works on the ground side of the lamp. The lamp is fed a fused constant 12v. The switch either earths it directly, not at all, or through one/many door pin(s).

Seperate systems then, as Steve suggests.

The Palm route will require additional hardware, for ADC stuff. Personally i don't like the look of those, and i wonder how readable they'll be when you're under way.

Or, just run the vehicle with a single 24v alternator, and two batteries, and tap off one battery for starter/lights. depends if you want to keep the systems seperate for reliability, or combined to save the (not inconsiderable) weight of batteries and alternators etc.

Oh dear, Will has learnt how to do pictures.

No, 123reg broke it themselves!

none? BBC's setup? Petal?