errol209

If the front shock turrets haven't been off in a while the turret ring threads and nuts will be shent as well (assuming you go down the route of taking the turrets off) and they aren't metric nuts on mine ...

600 in the Skoda (typically) However, 210-ish in the 90 definitely something wrong with the Td5! It's not in low box or got "Bad Boi" monster mud tyres on has it (which could also lower the apparent mileage reading). Roofrack?

Apparently not legally required unless your machine weighs in over 7.5 tonnes: Linky not of this forum Better link

Hmmm, suspect previous owneritis with mine then ....

On that vintage of vehicle (1989) the VSR will be behind the instrument cluster, but the HRW relay (if the standard LR optional wiring was used, as shown in Ralph's diagram) should be behind the metal bracket the fuse boxes sit on. One of the wires to this relay will be a thickish white / black one.I'd deffo split the HRW and HFW onto two relays, with a fuse for each.

You haven't mentioned the adjusters: have you jacked the wheels up one by one and adjusted the hex head on the brake back plate until the wheel locks, then backed it off two clicks? Not doing this would explain all the symptoms you describe. There will be one near the front on each rear backplate, and two on each front backplate. There are no springs in the wheel cylinders. The whine is probably the brake fluid being forced back into the brake lines by the springs. There is virtually certain to be a guide in the archive.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" - Arthur C. Clarke

That's a lot to pay for an engine and some springs. The big holes are due to something "butt" related? The mind boggles ...

Clucking bells! The best bit in the advert was where he claimed the previous owner (ha ha) had spent loadsa money on the suspension - how did he jack it up to change the springs (For all you wannabe Defender owners out there in eurobox land, this is an example of what is known to the land rover cognocenti as "a scrapper" )

I made the assumption that the ECU output was solid state rather than relay switched and then erred on the side of caution. I don't know my way round the ECU, so I'm not going to suggest a solution that might blow it up! If the ECU output to the interior light is relay switched then you do not need the diode at all. Look, the goverment pade for my edewkation and isle be dammed if I are going to let it goe to waist!

Yes.

Are you sitting comfortably? Diodes are semiconductor junction devices, and have a "forward voltage drop" of around 0.6v, which means that if you measure accross the two leads you'll see a voltage of 0.6V (though this varies between types and rises slightly with increasing current). So, at one amp a smallish silicon diode (the commonest) will generate I x V = Watts of heat, or ~0.6W. Being cautious, I'd specify a diode with a bit more current capacity, and a power rating based on the current rating times 1 (lots of factor of safety, and only pence). However, most diodes are rated to a current, and this takes account of the power thing. These ones are a good choice, 1N5400 is 50V reverse rated (plenty) and only 23p, or these (1N4001) for 16p (but not proper pointless over-engineering in true LR tradition)

Higher value end then!

Don't automatically believe everything you read on the web! Aluminium is perfectly good, as 100% of Sky satellite dishes, the Lovell main dish at Jodrell bank and the Forum's collective experience with CB, Ham and airband radio attached to land rovers (and their roofs) suggests. Just as an aside, the electrical conductivity of aluminium alloy is 5*10-8 ohms/m, whereas iron is 10 and steel is 15. Most high voltage overhead cables are aluminium over a steel core, because copper is four times denser than ally and therefore the cables are lighter. Lastly, the ground plane exists to provide an eletromagnetic reflector, so anything that conducts will do really, like sea water, chicken wire, or even the ground ... Only if you need to fix the antenna with a magmount, as the text of your link says. Any flat conductive surface will help matters (see above), but the science suggests even a 101 ambulance roof isn't big enough to achieve a 100% effective reflector in the 27MHz area.

0.5 to 0.7 bar, depends on the engine. The car park idea will show up if its working or not. If you mean the G valve or similar in the rear circuit - very rarely!

Did you use the TDi sender (in the engine) and the TD gauge (the original one in the car)? If so, you need to either swap the sender back to the old one off the TD or find a TDi gauge (or buy a guge kit with real numbers on). There have been loads of threads on here about this.

Dunno, but for best results (from a purely theoretical point of view, you understand) provided the metal surface is a) earthed well b) normal to the axis of the aerial and c) big enough to provide quarter of a wavelength-length of surface in any direction, it will work perfectly. At 27Mhz one wavelength is about 11m, so a 2.75m radius would be perfect . Middle of the roof then!

Dead alternator / battery.

Apologies to our German correspondents, I think. You could equally say that it would be immaculately engineered, efficient and utterly reliable! However, I don't support or condone ripping off other people's work at all in any way whatsoever, and the IP / copyright / ERD mess needs much <rant> much much bigger teeth and an international body behind it willing to take a proper stand. </rant>

The parts book (also available via the technical archive index ) only varies by engine type and VIN (up to LA and MA onwards) for a 110, so get the one for your engine and you should be OK.

For Series 2a: s2a.pdf

HTH! Seriously tho', its a fine balance between egg-sucking lessons, patronising and being helpful sometimes

Errrr... The existing light has two "feeds". The purple and white is the live from the rest of the car (on mine this comes off a fuse in the usual place). The straight-to-the-roof black wire is used as ground when the switch is in the "always on" position, and the other mainly-purple wire is the one that goes to the pin switch on the door(s) and is used as earth when the switch is in the "on when the doors are open" position. To do what you want a) don't replace the festoon with a fuse, it or your ECU just go pop and b) you really need to connect your LED unit accross the festoon contacts. 42 LEDs at 40mA each is just over 1.6A, so this could be straining the ECU. The diagram below shows what I think you need to do ... The extra diode under the festoon bulb is to stop a feed going the wrong way to the ECU, but this diode can be a one amp (tiny) thing. If lower level guidance would help, please shout.

Did you use PTFE tape to fit the new one?

No, not normal. Feasible, but not right at all. The alternator output should be at or just under the battery voltage at idle after you start the engine, and rise to a bit above when you rev it, and it should then stay a tiny bit above whilst the engine is running. If the voltage drops as you rev, this means it is putting a load on the battery and not charging it (the alternator voltage has to be a little higher than the batttery voltage to overcome the internal resistance of the battery and get charge into it), which is why your battery isn't doing very well. I second Ralph on his diagnosis of the fault (for the fault, not Ralph's diagnosis!)