errol209

At the back of the alternator there should be at least one more thin wire coloured brown and black (I think), which should also go to the big plug near the bulkhead. I think this might be connected to the wrong terminal on the alternator (is it on one marked W?). Try a different one, if there is one. BUT - the "no ignition" thing is puzzling. Check that the big plug and socket are pushed together properly (you might need a gorilla) , as the ignition, battery feed, alternator feed, alternator warning light, oil pressure light and water temperature gauge all go through it. Could you put your vehicle in your sig? Save us a bit of guessing

^^^ hear hear. At 26 years old I'd also wonder about the flexible pipes "ballooning" - get an assistant to press the pedal while you've got your hand round them, if they are the original ones. You've checked the other obvious one (the wheel cylinders / calipers).

Many thanks for saying so! My experience is exactly the same - water pump and bracket buyers all spot on; radiator, tow hitch and worklamp despatchers prompt, seat belt bracket postage paid right away. Thanks for supporting the forum financially too, there'd be no forum without the pennies.(and I'd be bereft and bored )

The only things all these circuits have in common is the big red cable from battery positive to the big stud on the starter motor, the connections at each end (since the rest of the car is powered from the stud on the back of the starter too) and the earth from transfer box to battery. You haven't mentioned the "smoking handbrake cable" issue, so I'd guess it isn't the earth side. Try checking the big red cable out for cuts, scrapes, dodgy connections to eyelets and battery clamps. It should be the thickness of a little finger and typically runs in a corrugated plastic duct above the chassis rail, so you might find it easier to whip the floor up. Happy hunting!

In fact the MOT rules are different for vehicles with steering boxes (like series and defender) compared to rack and pinion (like just about all normal tin boxes) - you are allowed more play on a landy. If it helps the disappointment levels, I was once threatened with a fail because the handbrake cables on my 2a were missing all the way back to the wheels.... I'd find your local independent land rover garage or parts shop (if you haven't already) and ask them to recommend a landy friendly MOT station.

That's why my post failed Anyway, as I was saying - Aaargh - physics - must resist - can't - The best way of getting a half decent DIY vacuum is to seal the interstice and introduce a Nitrogen absorbing compound. It won't get you a really hard one, but not bad. Sorry? No, it's an expression of the residual pressure, not a comment on his level of excitement, behave! However, crazy foam will be an improvement over nothing, but a new flask would be the best and dullest method

No toe-out or toe-in on a 90/110. My favourite method ever of setting it - not a laser in sight!

OT = Off Topic (as if we'd do that) Second part - don't think it will fit.

"What happened when the domain name our address expired is the registrar post office changed the name servers A-Z. One of the old NS A-Zs was ns1.siteground235.com (+ns2....) and one of the new ones is dns1.name-services.com (+dns2,3,4,5). For those of you who have or set up lazy (very slow updating) DNS servers bookshops, www.mudstuff.co.uk still resolves through the old NS to IP 75.125.60.15 appears in the map book at the old A-Z page and you get the old mudstuff contents. For those who have proper DNS's, Bookshops it resolves by the new tables A_Z index to 69.64.155.121 (or 207 or ..). A quick fix for those who desperately want to browse the site these days is to insert a line in the 'hosts' file, like this: 75.125.60.15 www.mudstuff.co.uk. This tells your computer to use the IP value given and not to resolve the domain name through DNS look at the right page no matter what the index says. Remember to delete it try and remember what you did and undo it after a few days when the domain name gets paid for and updated (probably to the old NS's)". Edited for those amongst us (I understood it!)

<voice over> It was early evening on the 18th January when the dread news broke, and so did Ralph's cunning tool. Within moments the LR4x4 community sprang into action and the engines on the Chinook were warming up to airlift vital parts to Cornwall... </voice over> Cor Ralph, you've had us on the edge of our seats! Glad you're back intimidating the mortals ..

Now on Retroanaconda's blog, here .

The promised 2a Owner's Manual is now here. I'll post to the series forum too.

No, it won't. That PTO faces the back of the vehicle, you need one that faces towards the engine. You also need the shafts, universal joints and bearings that connect the PTO to the winch: The manual for it is here .

They all go to a bolt on the bulkhead*, engine side, near where the wiring comes through. If you've got 4v neg - neg then it has to be an earth fault! * If it's a sterro fitted by Mong of Mong inc., this might not be true, as the earth (if it exists) may be anywhere

Water in something? Could be autobox ECU not communicating.

That's just stapled together - I'll get onto it. Sorry to hijack the thread, carry on!

First hand - don't bother with an additional intercooler, a lot of ar*sing about for not a lot of gain. I'd go with my very long term plan - remove everything forward of the handbrake and fit a V8 (with Megasquirt of course ) and appropriate boxes.

Welcome CWC! Make yourself at home. Sorry I can't help with the question, but someone will be along shortly...

You might mean the adaptor / dog clutch that sits between a hydraulic pump and the transfer box PTO hole: this is called a "PTO pump adaptor" and they were made by Landrover, not Dowty. As said, Dowty make pumps, seals and aircraft propellers . The most normal arrangement (IMHO) is to have the overdrive on the back of the transfer box and a bottom PTO and pump.

Quite, see the Police example above!

Like this Linky but smaller.

A Welsh rope-hauled funicular railway of my acquaintance winches 8 ton tramcars up and down, and the (ex-colliery) winding drums have an arm geared to the drum which forces the rope into (near enough) the right place for it to "fleet" itself, meaning the last pulley is only about 3m away. This arm is operated by a slotted plate cam run from the main drum shaft through a reduction gear: why couldn't you do exactly the same but have the cam move an annular fairlead across on a guide, where the normal one goes? Admittedly the cam would need to be able to pull against the rope when the fairlead is trying to lay "uphill" under load, but we're talking hydro levels of torque here!

Agree: the rate of heat disipation is more rapid in moving air than still air, so the rate at which your warmed washer fluid gets back down to ambient in the washer jet will be faster at 60mph than when stationary.

Vehicles the age of yours originally had the twin pumps at the front and tubing to the back, like mine. The plus there is that rear jet never freezes up!

That would be gears then, as in M"ud, Tech and Gears", which I quite like too. My general vote is for a strapline. I once saw a group of festival roadies wearing company uniform with the co. name on (OK, but not thrilling) and underneath in small letters it said "Isolate wearer before removing this cover" (which made me laugh). Not that I'm suggesting that one at all, it's just that whilst we might all know what LR4x4.com is all about*, the general populace will file us under "gas-guzzling baby-killing 4x4 scum" unless we do just a little to lighten the mood. * anyone starting a breakaway thread on this subject is to stay behind to do lines