errol209

The solenoid connects the battery to the starter motor (it's a 1000A relay in effect) but at the same time it pulls the starter dog / pinion outwards and into engagement with the gear ring on the flywheel. The dimming but lack of whirring suggests that the solenoid is stuck (or, if there is a faint "clonk" as you turn the key) that the battery is low. I am envious of your ability to start it normally with no glow plugs ... There is another very similar thread running here

If it "wurrs" a few times but then eventually catches it means that the starter dog is not always engaging with the ring on the flywheel, but the electrical side is OK. My guess is that the starter dog is sticking a bit. There are concise instructions for overhaul and adjustment on page 32 (section 86 of book 5) of the Defender workshop manual (have a look in the Tech Archive)

If you look just under the capping at the top of the bottom part of the rear tub, you should find an angled surface with slots and holes in (the holes are so you can get at nuts and bolts for the sides). There should be some brackets (5 on the diagram) which bolt to the seat frames and poke up into the slots. The seat then just bolts down (parts 22 - 26, one each end) Alternatively, the seat frame may have a tab sticking out which bolts to the side capping.

Hear hear, and thanks, and a happy new year too!

- Feeling of towering over other mere mortals - Virtually complete freedom in choice of parking area - Constant stream of rewarding maintenance jobs which you can do yourself (like fixing the leaking roof, fitting better demister vents, and re-covering the seats ) - Low (if not negative) depreciation

45s on the glow plugs is not ridiculous in cold weather! Black smoke then grey on start up means you've got some oil in the cyclinders, probably worn rings, via the crank breather and air filter, or valve guides worn, or turbo oil seals going. The white / grey smoke is unburnt fuel: a puff of white on start-up is also quite normal. Do remember that it is a very simple diesel with on 80 horses, so a Veyron it will never be!

The "parking in the wrong place" comment in the OP makes me wonder if the self-parking switch (on the side of the motor, three wires) is on the way out. I don't think you can get them seperately though?

Wiring diagram for your specific car attached. A rear worklight was never standard, but since it is best wired to come on even with the ignition off, "purple and something" would be logical. Radio and clock were optional add-on extras and the radio had its own harness. The towing socket came as a kit (the LR kit used LR colours, modern kits use the colours of the seven-core cable), connected behind the cover in the offside back corner of the rear tub. Happy hunting! TD wiring.pdf

Surely, at the angles you can happily dangle a Landy at you'd need some kind of kind of gimball-mounted active levelling system with about 100 degrees of travel both ways (360 on challenge machines, though stopping for coffee upside down mid-stage would be relaxed in the extreme) Sounds like a project for someone with far too much spare time Alternatively, use one of those anti-spill cups for kiddies ?

I'd start nearest the lights and work forwards.

Me too, but sadly it looks like Ashtrans and Kamdiffs Steve aren't, as I bet both of them will know, as well as the lunatic fridge fringe. Anyway, had a good Christmas?

Ta for the explanation, all now ferpectly clear! Apart from the NA-derived TD ... Couldn't you make one? You can find TDC with a dial test indicator or bit of stick, and you have a timing mark and mounting points? You'd only need to it once. Then you can let us know the dimensions!

Happy non-denominational season's greetings to all, and wishing you all a prosperous 2010 (Gregorian calendar)

Remove or change the pollen filter and check that the air intake grille is clear. I assume the fan gets louder as you turn it up and the fuse doesn't blow in the process?

It's here Thanks to Retroanaconda for hosting it.

<drum roll> Ladies and Gentlemen, it gives me great pleasure to thank Mr Retroanaconda for his kind hosting of the files, a major company for providing the means to scan the files, and to present the link to the files: without further ado: </drum roll><crash> The 90 / Defender parts book Could a nice mod add this to the Tech Archive for me? Ta. Mo M will be so pleased ...

How old is the engine? the WSM shows a cover on the flywheel housing with an EP mark and pointer, but on "early" 2.5NA engines only. Out of interest, and 'cos the WSM only talks about static, what are you timing it against (I've not come accross dynamic timing on a diesel before, I wanna learn!)

The light comes on when the locking dog has actually slid into the locked position (but on an older defender the switch, wiring and bulb may all be shot, so be careful). The difflock lever operates an arm in the box (assmebly 12) which compresses a spring (10), and the spring pushes the dog (2, via fork 7). Fork 7 operates the difflock switch (23). So the lever just "suggests"! If difflock hasn't been used much, the oil is cold and or the two parts of the centre diff go round together then the lock may never engage.

... and entirely the wrong weather

a la TMBG?

The glow plugs on a TD (19j) pull 70-80 amps when cold, initially dropping rapidly and setlling down to about 50 amps at the point where the engine will start (to the nearest 10 amps - cheap ammeter)

How long have you had the ve-hicle? "Awful whiring" is correct when compared to any modern car! If the box is low on oil and / or has the wrong stuff in it, it can make it very hard to get any gear in a cold box (repeat to self, ATF not EP90 ... ) Sounds like that would be a good first stop. Just as an aside, does the aforesaid 'whiryness happen as badly if you put it in reverse with the transfer box in neutral too?

He's SimonR on this very forum.

Bl**dy Antipodean agitator! We have trouble getting a good BBQ day in our summer!

Damn, nice theory though.