errol209

Yep and nope. The easiest place to drill the hole is in the small round cover front of the injection pump pulley. It's a thin section, so you need to add a nut on the inside.

He's excited from playing with CAD in the Forum Clothing thread

After a bit of thought, could it be the ETC working when it needn't, caused by a wheel sensor failing (making the ECU think the non-failing wheel(s) was / were spinning? The whining would thus be the ABS/ETC pump, but I'd never have described it as a whine, more a buzz or rumble ...

Sounds sarcastic, but its the best answer I can think of too!

And many regulars have a link in their sig. too. Western has, and he posts now and again ...

Hang on, I meant that pressing the left hand, disconnected, not-accelerator pedal in a two-accelerator-pedal setup wouldn't effect things. I agree that if the not-accelerator pedal was left "live", valuable workshop space, small children and other animals could be at risk.

A comment positively dripping with incorrectness and double entendres. Shame on you! Anyway, if she did "push it" believing in its clutchyness, wouldn't make much odds in an auto?

... that would have been the "add poll" button that HFH forgot to press then. Computer wizz? he's a moderator Anyway, colour? got to be green, surely?

A rugby shirt in XL for me pliss (I like the "the best 4 x forum x far" slogan too)

Its the solenoid clicking in and out (in on the key, out as the starter motor drops the voltage, then back in after the solenoid drops away, repeat). If it isn't the battery knackered, then it must be either the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid or the earth strap(s) from engine to battery not conducting properly (e.g. broken, corroded, frayed, loose). My bet is the earth strap side, as it comes up over and over again. Can you start it by jump leads to your battery? How about +ve jump lead on your battery, -ve lead attached to your engine?

Don't know Discos, but the 90 / 110 / Defender pedal braket just bolts onto the footwell, with a cable to the engine. Could you just move the existing one? Is it fancy whizzy ECU or good old Bowden cable?

Or for extra marks for science, how about a pair of 68ohm 3W resistors in parallel (34R, 6.09W at 14.4V)? I used to have arm mounted jets made out of old brake pipe on the 2A, those would be easy to heat by wrapping them in resistance wire (a bit of maths required, as you'd need the resistance per unit length of the wire) and then heatshrinking it all. Interesting idea ...

IIRC everything in around the dash is grounded on the bulkhead, and no seperate earth strap is provided betwixt bulkhead and chassis. The battery negative should go to the gearbox or starter motor, and the starter motor and engine should also be strapped to the chassis (one each). This would fit with your symptoms, i.e. there is a volt drop between bulkhead and chassis.

Parts book shows the connection just under the fuel filter, photo of mine attached with the connector (probably ) circled.

At an effective 1" lift I wouldn't bother doing anything, at 2" too. I have an advertised 40mm lift on the front, 25mm actual with the hydraulic winch, and there is no noticeable worsening of centring, cornering, tyre wear, etc. Anyway, nose down slightly helps the water drain off the roof, and it also sits level when loaded in the back!

I'd suggest that the main lighting switch is on its last legs.

Changed my mind - dud solenoid.

You can change the seals yourself, but I wouldn't bother; just get an exchange one, as then you will have reconditioned shafts too. New locking tabs, new track rod ends and do the drop arm up properly. The UJs on the column are possibly worn too.

NRC7387 (upper, longer) and NRC7704 (lower, shorter)

Sounds right, the light earths collect under a screw in the rear tub on each side, then the crossmember loom connects these and all this is then earthed in the engine compartment via two earths in the main loom . I've added a strap from the off side screw to the chassis rail, just in case ...

Click me!

You could try a slightly oversize rearward blow axially to the forward end of the motor , it might free up, but with those readings I'm sticking to a low battery!

I'd guess you should add "talking to your insurer" to the list

I always understood that all pulling gear should have a FOS of two?

The fan should get more viscous (stiffer, sorry for the use of non-family friendly wordage mods, I had no choice) as the water temperature rises - at minus numbers if should be as loose as an MPs grasp of the expenses rules! I don't know my way round a rangie, but I'd guess the AC fans probably won't cope with a hard tow on a hot day (sorry, what? He's in Scotland?) you 'll be OK