errol209

My last and final offer, take it or leave it (this one's serious): LR4x4.COM Get technical

I had to rebuild the balls with chemical metal and smooth them back to round again - no wobble and they adjust again ...

No disrespect to 'er Majesty's Inspectors, but there's a 90% chance they won't know what it should look like. Just say that the transfer box differential selector fork is broken (yes, I know) if they ask why it won't drive, and of course there's no fuel in it so the engine won't fire ...

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I appreciate that a) I probably know the answer and b) I'm diverting a Defender thread, but I also have an original 2a Owners Book (1965 vintage), the BL vintage 2a parts book and the original 2a workshop manual lying about. I'd have to split the bindings to scan them, but would anybody find those useful too? I also have a sectional drawing of a Fairey overdrive (with part numbers) but that is waiting for several quiet lunchtimes to CAD up p.s. I'm happy scannering things, if there's anything else?

Bo**ox, I meant High Speed should still work, sorry, pressure of work ...

Could also be the ballast resistor, mounted under a small plate on top of the fan housing, burning out, but low speed should still work if this were true. You can sometimes free up a stuck or sluggish motor with a liberal application of WD40, but it won't fix a burnt out one.

The "bounce" in voltage could also be capacitative coupling in the (broken) circuit, but I'd guess the switch is possibly OK and you have a broken / corroded wire in the engine compartment. Pull the Horn fuse, strap the horn connection to earth (chassis) at the horn end and work back to the switch joint by joint with a resistance meter (or leave the fuse and use a 12v bulb to verify the circuit joint by joint working away from the switch). When you say "no voltage coming from the horn switch" how have you tested this?

Yes!

Definitely a series starter motor, its an inertia type, so wot he ^^^^ said!

I agree, but I'll always stop and ask if everything is OK if it is safe to do so. I have always worked on the principle that I wait to be asked for my assistance, and then make it clear that it is entirely at their risk and only physically help if such help is going to make the world a safer place. Perhaps we need a pre-printed card with our terms and conditions on and space for a signature?

No, but the innards of the pump being out of alignment might - the bearing could have suffered in whatever event started the seal leaking. Check the belt, if it is covered in power steering fluid this could also cause it to make a noise. No idea, but if the shaft is worn or the front bearing has gone, a good second hand one or recon unit might be less trouble in the long run!

And some of it is b*****x! An 1883 Audi 80? How about a 1958 LR Discovery? 1900 Ford Fiesta?

Probably 3/8 unf then!

Does Mr Bish's elastiktrikery skills run to finding out what voltages appear where using a multimeter? The plug has three poles (metal contacts) which is unusual. I think the one nearest the wire will be ground (0V), one will be the charger output and the third is possibly a sensor back to the charger control circuit (especially given the stern warning about battery types - it will be optimised for that particular battery's chardging characteristics. Three pole connectors on wall warts are quite unusual, so you may not find anything. Have you looked on Eblag and the like?

Mr Western doesn't sleep, how do you think he's got to 16,000 posts? Anyway, Has the link to the 90 parts book made it into the tech archive index yet? I can't see it.

Yes, its about 4 feet long and goes through a hole in the bumper, chassis and onto a fearsome dog on the crank pulley. If you ever get one and feel tempted to show off your muscles, it swings clockwise but don't wrap your thumb round as it can kick back and you won't win the battle It stows behind the seats, but has probably gone walkies. It is a very satisfying feeling as it fires up though!

Judging by the wiring colours in the second picture, it's in the right location to be the the ignition warning light resistor. The item itself (I think) is a coil of resistance wire on a fibreglass cloth support, which makes it a wire-wound resistor. There is a thread on here which gives you the value resistance it should be if you need it. The tech archive has a link to the right diagram(s).

Me to please!

Mine did this - the motor is starting to get gummed up by fluff, salt, dust, mud, etc. Heater box out, fan out, remove any errant leaves and small rodents, spray between motor and fan with copious amounts of WD40, leave, do it again, leave, drain the excess oil off, check the motor runs properly, reassemble.

I think it is gauge, as the faces marked 3, and 5 get progressively further form the axis of the shaft. Still no idea what for though

This blighted a Micra of my acquaintance, where it was a matter of how cold and damp the air was - colder and damper made it happen sooner, later if not. The engine gets very little heat into the carburettor, even with the "hot-spot" system.

My unreserved apologies for any contribution I may have made to this issue, I can only plead poor memory of my Car Mechanic Badge (yes, really).

Please don't shout, we can hear you!

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