errol209

I was thinking the same thing. I was also thinking that the washer tube must run along the top of the heater duct inside the cab for some distance, and that is can be made to be full of warmish air... That would just leave the washer jet head, which, as the post #41 in this thread shows, aint that hard (resistor values permitting ). I will buy a front jet and do some thinking (though use of the -18oC test cabinet will take some negotiation with SWMBO ...)

Hmmm, Would anyone else be interested? Have to do a bit of testing first mind! (thinks, what are we letting ourselves in for - I wonder if SimonR wants to branch out into the "Xjet )

My original 1965 owners book gives a kerbwieght (tools, fuel, but no driver) of 1488kg for the petrol 88 "station wagon" and 1577kg for the diesel, with a maximum of driver, 6 passengers and 45kg load. Given that LR seem to indicate a person weighs 100kg, this gives GVWs of 2233kg and 2312kg. I can scan the page if you need it?

You mean someone might aktually want one?

I was beginning to doubt my own Anyway, happy to help a fellow vapour-ist (so much to do, and so litle time between domestic tasks )

Older Defenders only have front and rear circuits, and the back circuit (on drums on mine) also has a "G valve" or similar to reduce their locking up effectiveness under heavy braking, making it much much much harder to stop on the back brakes alone, which is what the OP said. On a single circuit Series he would never have stopped at all! (Well, you can mash it into first, turn it off and try the transmission brake when (if) you get down to a low enough speed, but not recommended)

*beep* You might have made a mistook ... 3mm ID is about 4mm OD for a metal pipe, so one turn is going to be: (4 + .375 (the thickness of the wire) * pi), or 13.74mm of wire (circumference = pi * diameter). To get 65W you need (13 * 13 / 65) or 2.6 ohms (from R= V2 / W). [Just as a check, 65W is (65 / 13) Amps at 13V, or 5A. Power is current (I, in amps) squared * R, so 5 * 5 * 2.6 = 65W.] Which is (2.6 / 4.2) metres or 610mm. This is only 44 turns or (44* .375) = 16.5mm long. (Much easier to follow in stages, and to check) You will need good thermal conductivity to get this to heat the pipe up and not glow red hot! Remember that resistance wire isn't insulated, so either we use a non-metallic pipe and epoxy the wire on (which I like) or try and electrically insulate the resistance wire first (yuck).

If your breather cap is connected straight to your turbo you are, as it should go to a connection next to the air filter housing! However lots of oil (like running outof the pipe) is a bad sign, even for a 19J. This means its blowing the oil up the crank breather, so suspect piston rings, valve stem seals, etc.

Try connecting the stop solenoid to 12V using a new, seperate wire from the cigarrette lighter to eliminate a wiring fault. The solenoid shouldn't tick apart from when you turn it on and off. It could also be the solenoid failing, but this is hard to test for.

After an experience with pound shop screwdrivers I think you might have been better off buying a £3 bar of quality chocolate, rather than buying it in screwdriver shapes

2 x 33 Ohm resistors in parallel is a resistance of 16.2 Ohms, giving power output of (V2 / R ) of 10W or so (5 Watts each from a 3W resistor ) no wonder they got hot! In series its a much more sensible 66 Ohms or 2.46W total.

Why thank you I have to use the Physics qualifications for something, otherwise it'd be a waste... Happy to be of some help, albeit fairly thoretical* * I have an O-level in big hammers, but they didn't offer it as an A-level

Water has a specific heat capacity of about 3J/gram/K at 0oC, so to raise 1 gram of nearly frozen water by 10oK (or centigrade, they're the same thing) to well above freezing point we need 30J of energy. Now, assuming we're using 1/8 washer tube (ID about 3mm) 1 gram of water (or 1000 cubic millimetres approx) will occupy a length of washer pipe 1000 / (pi x 1.5 x 1.5) long, or 141mm. I'm guessing that the washer jets would use this amount in a second, so we need to supply 30J per second, which is 30W. Using the above data, you'd either need a way to fit a coil of wire 60' long into a space 141mm long, or accept that you might end up raising it to a higher temperature. Of course, I have ignored heat loss to the rest of the world, and the fact that the washer fluid could actually be as cold as -15oC, which would make the power requirement 75W or 20' of wire (ish). All in all I suggest you'd need some kind of thermal control, but that would be a simple inverse-linear voltage control circuit (three resistors and a big transistor). Hope some of that helps

There is a freewheel, to stop the engine turning the motor over when it starts: I don't recall them having a clutch, but I'll admit I've not seen many. I think a clutch is a feature of the pre-engaged type? The only other thing I can think of, and it's not easy to test, is that the engagement fork / lever between the solenoid and pinion has two points of weakness: the pivot pin and the spring between the fork and the pinion. If either is broken or worn then the pinion would not be pushed forward properly. Otherwise I'm stumped. As to chamfered teeth, you learn something every day on here!

Depends how old yours is, but you could also fill the time by checking out the state of the steel brake pipes, which corrode; the master cylinder seals, the caliper seals on the front / back and if fitted the slave cylinder seals on the back (look for dribbles of fluid = bad). All these are easier to do if you have the brake system drained already. I'd also invest in a bag of new bleed nipples

Remove and replace the fuel filter with a new one if you haven't already, as this is between the pump and tank ... Have a look under the car near the fuel tank for another thing-that-looks-like-a-filter, which is actually a sedimenter, if present clean it Check all the pipes for kinks, flat bits, melted bits etc.

Jellyfied diesel?

I think Phil meant the "pre-engaged" type of starter where the motor turning throws the pinion forward into engagement? Yours is the solenoid type, where the bit with the sticker connects the battery to the motor (which is OK, cos the motor goes round on the key) and pushes the pinion forward via a lever (in the housing nearest the camera. If you can get it to start at all, then that bit must be good enough. What's really odd is the voltage readings. There should be short fat link on the back between the solenoid and motor and the live feed should go to the other big terminal on the solenoid first, leaving a smaller terminal left over for the feed from the ignition. I think you may have your jump leads on wrong ... However, I'm inclined to suggest that if it doesn't catch first time, but does after you've turned it over, then the teeth on the starter ring at various locations might be knackered. You should be able to see them through the starter motor hole, possibly with a mirror. Edit: look at the teeth in the photo, they're only worn right at the end, meaning that it isn't engaging fully.

You've got readings for both batteries with engine on, no load You've got readings for both batteries with engine on, loads of load. If you leave the load on and stop the engine, you should find that the second battery is sat at around 12V+ and the main battery will be a lot lower, because of the current draw. If it is, then I guess all is OK. Last check (having turned all the lights off!) is to load the second battery instead and see what voltage reading you get. Restart and you should see both batteries showing a lower voltage. A battery being charged will show a lower voltage to begin with, increasing until it's full, which is how automatic chargers "know" - it's that damned resistance again.

I could be 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper(ed)), as the 1/8 bit refers to the ID of the pipe you use, not the OD of the fitting (1/2 BSP fittings are about an inch across!) Try this page Edit: However 8mm doesn't make an appearance! Edit again: but 1/16 NPT is bang on.

First, a quick lesson - Current is measured in Amperes or Amps (abbreviated to A). This a measure of the rate of flow of electricity (similar to water in a pipe) Voltage (or "potential difference" in older terms) is measured in Volts (abbreviated to V). You can think of this as the "pressure" of the electricity, also like in a water pipe, but don't tell my lecturers I said so You can have a voltage and no current (like 14V in the battery but the battery not connected) just like there is pressure in the tap when the tap is turned off. Just to complete the picture, resistance (Ohms, symbol like a horseshoe) is a measure of how hard it is for the electricity to flow. Batteries have an internal resistance, which is why the output voltage (pressure) falls when you load it up (draw a lot of current, or turn the tap on). The same applies to your alternator and the split charger, what you're seeing is the pressure level in the batteries with the tap turned on from one, but both being filled from one pipe if you follow (the loaded battery is dragging the charger voltage down on both batteries because the split charger can only source so much current from the alternator). I need a lie down ...

Nooooooooooooooooo don't do it ...

I think that tale is evidence supporting my theory of why people buy particular cars. Land Rover types don't mind getting their hands dirty (hat off Mr P38, for being an exception to what I'm about to say) but buyers of large shiny pose-mobiles are often just that - posers. I recently stopped to check whether a stranded D1 driver (probably failed gearbox) was OK, he said he and and his wife had counted over 100 tow-capable cars passing by before I stopped. Shame I was in the Czech toy ...

Click PCD clicky post #7. Couldn't find a drawing for you though Bore is referred to here at 5.15 inches. I use Google to search this forum 'cos the inbuilt search isn't up to complex tasks, "defender hub pcd site:lr4x4.com".

I used 10mm closed cell neoprene foam glued on with Evostik ( wahey! ) with a coating of loudspeaker cabinet cloth on top to stop the foam getting shredded, as hedge clippings and bikes are wont to do. The front edge above the winscreen is velcroed on so that you can still get to the roof / frame bolts. No condensation at all. And of course, no boy racer machine is complete with bangin' choons, so the speakers are right behind the front seats, out of water damage range (it also means you can hear the music at 60mph - its a standard TD). Also shown in this picture is the 22mm polyurethane pipe insulation (covered in cloth too) clipped over the edge of the hardtop as finishers, very neat, but not finished in this picture, I ran out: The back of the roof has a scientifically shaped push-in bit round the vents so that I can still get to the working light fixings and washer jet nut: The added plus of all this is how much quieter it is without the hardtop roof adding to the noise!