errol209

Err, no. The motor has three brushes (on item 12 in diagram below) (from here ) This allows two different brush spacings and therefore two speeds. Most likely you need new brushes, but a whole motorisn't a huge price.

Sorry, pressure of work. light bar.pdf

Loudspeaker Carpet from places like CPC or Adam Hall is very hard wearing but nicely fluffy, and Frosts do spray on flocking in tins (and packets).

Pretty much. Yes, and they aren't cheap! Yes. Try not to flex the roof too much when fitting it, as it will then leak (well, more than it did before, anyway ).

90, 110, 130? Pictures? What were the previous owners' occupations? (Farmer isn't the best answer BTW) What did it sound like / feel like to drive? Was the gearbox noisy at all and did it change easily? How vague was the steering? Last cam belt change? £3750 might be OK, but at 13 years old and 97K something will need doing, and the cost of those things is what will determine the final price. A new rear door, with wiper and HRW plus wiring and paint could set you back £200 - £500, for instance. A typical steering overhaul could be £30 (bushes) to £400 (new PAS box, bushes, UJs, drop arm)

The holes in the axle end bracket are probably oval (its only thin metal). Approved fix is to weld a washer over the oval. You'll probably need a new bolt too. This might also be cause of the "free play" item ... Steering UJs are easy, four pinch bolts at worst and a quick tap - they are different part no.s top and bottom though.

You're lucky to be alive - LR specifically say not to do it (the bolts aren't big) - but having consulted the manual it's all OK . I thought that the tester could opt for parking it on a hill?

A 200Tdi doesn't have such a filter. Neither does the 2.5NA, 2.5TD or 300Tdi. I'm with Mr Wingnut on this, as changing the cambelt on mine showed up that PO* had adjusted timing to suit a very worn belt, so new belt retarded the timing again. 55 flat out before, now I can get near book speed (60 ) * Previous Owner. Also SPO, Sodding Previous Owner.

Errr, don't Carling switches light up with the sidelight circuit (if you want)? So, if you mean "the switch lights up anyway" then try disconecting the red or red / white wire from the back of the switch. If you mean that you have put a test meter across the back of the switch and the main beam circuit is live when turned off then you probably have one or more bad earths behind the headlights, allowing the dip beam circuit to feed the main beam one.

If the back one needed changing, next suspect has to be the front one, I think! Wheel bearings - jack up the relevant corner, grasp the wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and give it a "wiggle", and the same at 12 and 6 o'clock. Any little clunky noises or movement (other than the front wheels moving on the steering) is bad. If you're lucky they will just need tightening up, but I'd consider investing in a half set of spares, as they are a relatively common failure . Gearbox is harder to diagnose: do the cheap things (front prop, wheel bearings) first and then if that doesn't help shout up and a gearbox adult will no doubt provide some further advice p.s. which bit of North West England?

Hmmm. <extends neck> What about 92.5"? <retracts neck>

Well, you could fix the "issue" by buying and fitting the suppressor ...

Probably, to stop the windings transmitting a whine over the tacho line.

MWC2780 and MWC2781 (up to VIN DA314xxxx)

Post a Wanted, someone will have someting tucked away in a shed ...

Not quite what I meant, there are a few "Remove Lights, Reset Light Brackets With Socket You Can't Get On With Lights In Place, Refit Lights" cycles, 'coz of the way its made.

So it makes the noise on the over-run. Sadly that doesn't narrow it down as much as the other choices, but first suspect has to be the gearbox end. After that its possibly propshaft UJs, differentials (unlikely) and then CV joints. I'd start with checking the gearboxes' oil levels, and checking for play in the propshaft ends. Does it do it when in reverse, by the way?

When exactly does it happen? when lifting off the accelerator, braking, or letting the clutch up after changing down a gear?

Well, we all know what a Freelander looks like

I'll knock up a sketch over the weekend and post it up. There is one and only one correct sequence to fit it and the lights though.

There doesn't seem to be a BSAU 7 standard code and its not on the diagrams up to and including 300tdi - I'd use white / black, same as the rear heated screen. Edit - Purple and slate on the TD5 diagrams, page 49.

... and deal done, bar sold. Does anyone want some measurements of it before I post it?

There is indeed a nut on it, and it's almost certain to be simpler to take the vent covers off to get at it, which needs the top crash pad off, which needs the instrunment panel loosening. Anyway, here's the parts book diagram:

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