errol209

Hackers get everywhere - Mods, there's someone pretending to be HFH on here!

I'd screw the new ones in gently About 15GBP each Only if you think they're knackered.

Hmmm. Low amps = low power (at 12V), which is why it isn't working very well, and low amps could also mean a high resistance (at 12V). The elements in the screen run horizontally, I think, so your description suggests all the elements are working? Did you use nice big manly wires? I'd be looking at 56/0.3 (40A) for each feed and two runs of that for the earth connection. Did you connect the other end of the earth to anything other than the engine, gearbox or battery negative? At these kind of currents even a slightly poor earth could give you the symptoms you have.

Does the light come on?

When *nix becomes mainstream they will - effort and return.

The fuelling on the fuel injection pump would need some modification. Performance would be thrilling the wrong word.

I can recommend Avast! antivirus - free (really absolutely as in air) and has caught quite a few nasties. Recommendation based on 5 years use on 4 machines.

... and they do work very very well (I had an unleaded one on the 109) indeed. Warms the engine first and then puts the cab heater fan on when the engine is warmed up. The best bit was the timer though: all warmed up before you'd even stepped outside It all came as a Defender kit, most of which didn't fit.

^^^ wot Luke said too - try a known good battery (its the easiest thing to swap). That's two more than normal - be afraid

I've been there too 1. Keep Calm. 2. Carry on - and get yer multimeter (or sidelight bulb and holder on longish wires) out and verify that it reads / indicates when you put it across a known good battery. 3. Start at the battery and test accross it. (My guess is you'll have juice here). 4. Test the end of the big red wire at the starter solenoid, with the other test lead on a clean bit of engine. You probably have no juice. If this is true, you've possibly burnt the transmission / engine to chassis earth strap or the battery lead out. 5. The battery negative should still be connected to the gearbox (accessible / visible from underneath) You can test this item with a resistance setting, from battery negative to the top of the transfer box, under the middle seat. 6. IMHO, bodgers rarely add safety features (like pricey 300A fuses) to wiring, but if you trace the big red wire betwixt battery and solenoid (it normally runs in a bit of ribbed plastic ducting) you might prove me wrong... 7. You can get to both ends of every wire, so go round and tick of every connection in the starter circuit as you test them with the meter. Calm and methodical, and consider irate violence only when all else fails Good luck!

Or the valve seals leaking hugely. It really does sound like a running-on-oil issue, especially with the revs running away and the blue smoke. How much oil is there in the intercooler and pipework?

11 - from the workshop manual (downloaded from a link on the Technical Archive)

Weird. Pretty sure there's a thread running in the International bit for forum issues if you can't beat it into submission - just follow the moans about the search function ... Welcome! (I don't think that posh engine is the cause of all your leaks and in such a new vehicle too)!

Have you got some invisible stealth carriage returns floating about? If you've copied and pasted your sig you might have.

Nearly done

Some of it might be condensation, but not all of it, I'll wager. The brown crinkly stuff is old foam breaking up. Saggy headlining is normal, sealed edges is a pointless bodge Sounds like you have an A1 mint shed, welcome to the forum that can help you with your habit! For future reference, can you add your home town and 90's year / model / engine to your sig.? You'll help us all help you all the better Iain

Check. Intermittent? Lucky b****r! Otherwise Check. You did I said Check. What? These things are all features! New wiper blades, new bushes or motor in the wiper department. Change the headlamps for +90% Xenon bulbs in Crystal headlight units (direct swap) Attack the seams in the roof with Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure and then polyurethane Sikafex sealant over the top and replace the seals along the top of the windscreen, or buy a dry suit

I've found the PAS belt has to go on far tighter to stop it slipping than the book suggests I should need to (like taut, no slack). That's on a TD though, seems to be the same on an NA?

The right one off a range rover classic will do too with only a very light sprinkling of bodgery (three thickish M16 washers - they are pretty much identical)

Ahh, the joys of a semi-pro sheetfeeder-equipped scanner / copier (and junior admin staff ) Could it go up on the forum somewhere, as I haven't got the space online?

Bear with me, I've got scanning it on the list of things to do!

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh!

780/800 and 4000/4260 respectively (according to the WSM)

That would be that nice Mr Henson but the thread is quite old

Well, it is about a one percent increase in available power (though I had to make a few educated guesses in the fan calculation ) Also, without the fan your engine will warm up 3 times faster and use 10% less fuel ... Oh, hang on, you're all being ironic, aren't you? Damn, caught out again