errol209

Bullet connectors, from Vehicle Wiring Products Or these

Genuine Land Rover or Timken: try one of the larger more reputable traders or your local independent and insist on the make and only that make. Also do all of them on an axle, set them up properly and make sure everything is clean and seated properly. If its lasted only this long, you might want to discuss this with the supplier!

You need a pressure switch (top two items on page). These will also switch the compressor on when the pressure falls.

- Water in the wiring (take all the bulbs out and see what happens) - New flasher unit required - Hazard switch going defunct (sit down before looking at prices or fit a Carling one)

From a purely theoretical point of view, you understand : Idea One - Yes, but you'd need to match the pump delivery to the engine at full 'burn. Idea Two - Yes you could, as the mechanical lift pump is essentially just two one-way valves and an excited diaphragm, but would this be better over idea one? Idea Three - I'd vote nightmare, also the manufacturer leaves a little gap at the bottom of the dip tube to allow gunge and water to collect in the tank and not all over your filters. A bottom fed tank wouldn't give you that feature. Question - why no gory details ? This is LR4x4.com ! (seriously, the details might help someone else identify a problem too)

There's the rub. At low revs, a supercharger (also called a blower for very good reason) will have some losses (pressurised air leaking back through the vane system) because it is optimised to deliver good volumes at lowish pressures (a few bar) and these losses will nearly equal the effect of the blower. At high revs the losses account for a much smaller fraction, giving you some pressure boost left over. You could make a blower (more like a compressor) that worked well at low revs, but you'd have to dump insane volumes of air at 10 times idle revs because it would be a straight revs / pressure relationship - 10 bar boost ? On a lighter side note, you could sort it all out by having an auto or CVT transmission on the supercharger: no lag and spot on boost all the time?

In a word, yes. Its not the water so much as the mud, which will grind around inside, all over your nice shiny copper / carbon commutator / brush bits. It also won't do the bearings any good. A quick flush with corporation pop will help after each dip in mud. Second, running any machine flat out will shorten its life, but I think your battery would have gone flat first rather than managing to fry the regulator circuit on the alternator through overuse. A third observation is that if the first replacement was for the 1992 original part, and the last two were of the budget persausion, it could be that you are reaping the rewards of inferior parts? If you hang on here a bit several adults will recommend good makes, and also that if you take yours to the local motor electrical specialist they may be able to fix it or part-ex it for a good one.

Not right at all. I suggest you follow the attached instructions for a ferpect clutch experience 33clutch.pdf

PM sent regarding LH bracket.

I might have one - give me 5 minutes

345101 for LH, 345100 for RH, called a "sill gusset" in the parts book.

Yep. The resistor drops the voltage for the low speed setting, which makes it hot, adding about 25% to the heater's output

Phew! p.s.

Aah, getting your retaliation in first? Sadly the pro-clone side seems to be utterly absent . Is this unique - everyone has realised they can't do what they claim to do?

18mpg for the 2.5 turbo diesel (predecessor of the 200Tdi engine which was introduced very early 90's) is average, 22-ish on the open road , single figures in traffic The 2.5TD can easily be spotted because it has a turbo top right but no intercooler (as standard).

^^^^ ditto. LR may have their faults, but generally the standard item is up to the job*. Admittedly that job could be towing elephants up a Saharan sand dune, but a dry day on Salisbury Plain can be nearly as dusty (albeit short on elephants though). From a performance point of view, a smaller volume filter will either not let as much air through (smaller surface area) or not filter as well (smaller area but more free flowing). Lastly, what do want the space for? It's not exactly easy to re-use it? *most half shafts, diff pinions, prop and steering UJs and the whole TD engine excepted

Yep, having thought about it that is the fatal flaw - the front of the system isn't a pin jointed frame if it has four Heims in it - it would need the axle to twist to work.

Fixed it for you! (good point, but how about resilient mounts for the Heims / Roses eh? eh?)

If this is a monging idea from Mongville, shoot me down, but couldn't you use Heims or similar all round, four at the front and two at the "fixed" ends of the radius arms?

Provided the final arrangement complies with the requirements of the MOT and the vehicle lighting regulations, there shouldn't be a problem? In the UK, this will mean getting them the same height above the road (between and upper and lower limits), symmetrical, with the right beam pattern, and a legal dip / main arrangement and controls. The lighting regs are here (parts 4 and 5) and the MOT testers guide is here .

Its easier to use google: try this clicky linky thing (142 hits)

Or good 'ol CPC ?

Search the Rorum for "three amigos", definitely seen recent threads on this.

My apologies too: I didn't realise what a silly way of doing things LR had changed to (wasting energy in the resistor that is). I think I'm right up to and including 200tdi though, same as TD.

A non-percusive, pacificist and grease free trick is (if a clear space behind permits) engage a high gear, release parking brake, open door, brace self against door frame and rock car backwards a bit (to move the flywheel a tiny bit). Because the starter motor won't turn until the solenoid has pushed the dog forward, the motor don't go if the dog don't move. Happens very infrequently to me, and rocking fixes it solves the immediate problem. I probably ought to fix the problem properly ...