errol209

I made a bar which sat across the grille mountings, but behind the grille, attached at each side with two steady arms going down. This has two arms which poke out downwards through the grille and have the lights on the end. It all fixes with the existing grille screws. PM me if you want it, as it doesn't fit anymore. Postage for the bar, + £20 for the pair of Ring 55W spots that go on them!

That works out to about one per rev of the transfer box output, or one every just-under-two meters

--- using a Hall Effect sensor array (to measure static magnetic field strength) which is clever and not simple, hence the price tag. note that it only resolves to 10mA (0.01A) at DC, so trying to get an accurate value in the 30mA area will be a bit approximate.

The parts book is handy for the "working out where it all goes" phase too - should be a link in the tech archive. My useful advice would be to make sure the seals along the top of the windscreen frame (there are two) are well fitted, and ditto the ones between the roof and side panels (do these bolts up first).

Check - It is impossible to make a DC current clamp meter, as there is no varying magnetic field around a conductor carrying DC current, so there is nothing for the clamp meter to measure. A clamp meter is just half a transformer (the secondary) with an ammeter attached, with the cable under test forming the transformer primary.

It should get above blood temperature (albeit just) ... I'd try the cheap things first! That brought on a nostalgia moment - -10 © outside, me sat in 109 with series Smith's heater going, only -5 © inside ... ah, happy days!

0) Is this your first Winter / Landy experience? If so, don't expect lavish walls of red hot air, particularly on older series machines and 90 / 110 / early Defender (LR may have sorted it, but has been a joke for plenty long enough). 1) Have you followed Western's guide to heater control adjustment in the tech. archive? 1a) If not, have a read and then move on. 2) Have you checked to see if the thermostat is the right one (there is an optional cooler one for many engines, for use in very hot (hah) countries), and in fact actually fitted (they get removed to "fix" overheating problems) as no 'stat pretty much equals no heater in most Landys. Later engines don't generate masses of surplus heat anyway! 3) Otherwise, if the vehicle is quite old and likely to be on its orignal matrix, then get a new one, as it's probably furred up inside.

There is a spring in the selector top housing which holds the main ball central in the cup, and I think its 219723, but this will need confirming as I'm away from my series parts book. If this has broken or failed then the stick won't centre - could be the issue?

I must have a really bad scan of the parts book ... sorry if AJ808041 caused any hassle.

Where do you find them / the time?

Yer, sorry. I'll take 40 lines I will consult the WSM before making pronouncements I will consult the WSM before making pronouncements I will consult the WSM before making pronouncements I will consult the WSM before making pronouncements

My worry exactly, which is why I've moved it.

Assuming you car is standard, brown all over is the colour used for unfused, unswitched battery feeds. Purple all over will also do, as this is fused / unswitched (marginally safer, but LEDs don't typically fail shorted so not much).

Have you readjusted the pedal height, slave cylinder and master cylinder pushrod? Western has a guide on the Technical Archive.

Sounds like you're rushing the box - it's probably the synchromesh complaining! Landys are not racing machines, so think less "Ferrari" and more "Foden".

FTC2175 should do, while I've got the book open, but some 1/8 bsp to 6mm pnuematic pipe fittings a a couple of metres of 6mm OD nylon pipe will do just as well You could also use the leftovers to bring the rear axle breather out under the bonnet.

I've got AJ808041 for the spire clips (9) CZK619 for the lo-cut plastic inserts (9) and MRC9998 (1) for the heater side seal (the wing vent side has no seal)

All available new (but not cheap). A Range Rover motor will fit, with some washers (previous post on forum) The light can be sourced (again, not cheap, but aftermarket ones will fit) and a bit of wire to one of the switches on the right of the dashboard (purple and white I think) No, but routeing the wiring from a roof bar neatly isn't easy, which is 50% of the good reasons to get a snorkel fitted A-bar, though I made a bar that sat behind the grille They should bolt down through the wheel arch box too, you should get away with leaving the plating. Easy, and dome head hex socket screws are just as neat. No, but more comments will no doubt follow soon Describe "grind" please, paying particular attention to pitch, volume and duration? All the above is DIY, requiring no special tools. We're here to help, and I know there's at least two regulars just round the corner from you...

Yes, and propshaft UJs.

That's quite a bad idea, as you would double the gear ratio (because of the centre diff). Much better idea would be to use the lever LR provided for just such an eventuality - diff lock - leaving the ratios alone (which you did). The pause is the diff lock gear waiting to drop into engagement. (edited after re-reading OP, sorry)

I'd go with that. We (British Rail) had some telephone cable made with Bitrex in the outer cover, to try and stop mice and rats eating one of our safety systems, but alas no. Letting the local Ferret and Terrier fanciers on did 100 times more good, and didn't cost us. Rats will gnaw through stainless steel armoured wire, 400 bar hydraulic hoses (bang), plastic gas pipes (bang) and 415V three-phase cables (fizz and rat kebab). The key reason they've eaten your pipework is there are too many of them and they're hungry: 2 rats can become 500 rats in a matter of months.

And damn proud of it too!

Might this help?

Echoing the above, anywhere that sells LR parts will do you the spanner, and most of them will also sell you a complete wheel bearing kit including all the joint washers. It is normally one of the relatively easy jobs to DIY. And if you're in a fix you can do it without the spanner (gently, using a hammer and cold chisel) but that should only be a road-side emergency trick really.

If it's anything like the ones for the series machines, there is a lightweight cap screwed over the end of the "big half", to keep the rubbish out. You need a big pair of grips to get round the flats, and its v. easy to cross thread it going back on. Be careful to fit yer new nipple where it won't catch on anything - a semi-permanently replaced mine (on the 2a) with a screw for this very reason. While you've got it in two halves, have you considered fitting propshaft gaiters?