rusty_wingnut

When it stops raining

New stalk didn't improve matters either, so rather bemused I started to remove wiring and circuit test. I tested the bulkhead side earth (even though I had bridged this already) Shamefully I'll admit that in all the wobbling, and checking of the pink relay the buzzing stopped! Possibly a dirty connector down stream, or a broken wire. But for now it is working again. I will investigate further as and when.

Ever seen the videos of the three 80" Land Rovers who cross Europe regularly? No locker, no Power steering, no servo brakes. Most of the time the wipers aren't even working! Why on earth do you need lockers?

Checked earth by running wire from earth terminal to a good earth. The pink relay only buzzes when taking the headlight switch from side to headlights.

Seems I am suffering this problem at the moment. It all started with a buzzing on the pink dip/dim relay, and no lights apart from side lamps and high beam. So I replaced the pink relay thinking it was at fault, but the new unit buzzes once the lights are switched on. I replaced the small light switch back in the summer, and the new unit was a genuine unit. I have pulled the cover off and contacts look fine on this swithc, no burning or sunken connectors. When I remove the pink relay and jump the connectors to remove the dip/dim function the lights work. Before I order a new indicator stalk is there a basic check I can do to confirm the stalk is at fault?

110: -New rear cross -New back door -find a headlining 109" -Use it for more than Goodwood this year! 107" SW: -Fit Radiator/intercooler and finsh rewriring. -Re glaze with new seals

OK, and you take boost readings from the manifold?

Where are you taking boost pressure from? Mine was from the back of the manifold, I also controlled turbo from the same connection.

Exactly what my VNT used to do - honestly they just don't work on TDIs in my experience. I think you require far more control on fuelling to obtain the most from your VNT, which is not easy on a TDI.

How is this going Turbo? I genuinely find myself in strife with the 110, for car parks and something like this would be jolly useful. I can offer MIG gas!

Those hydraulic cylinders look great - exactly what I am after for a little project I am planning. Shame they're all sold out!

There is a known issue with second oil turbo drain, altohugh that really only causes a puff of smoke under hard acceleration. Sounds like it might be an idea to remove that turbo?

Out of interest, I assume if I were to have heated mirrors, i would simply lower the relay amperage value? I've just replaced my screen so no heated screen on the cards for a while.

I was led to believe that the Haldex unit was not considered a service item by Land Rover, but in other VAG applications it is considered a service item! Generally a change of oil is always a good idea in one of these as it's probably never been done! My experience was out FL2 took an age to lock up on slippery surfaces, it was greatly improved by just changing the oil!

Weirdly, mine is still exempt, as is my Dads. Both are original 110 SW/CSW.

I've done another tank of E10 (if that's what it is?) through the Series 1 since last post, not least because of the lack of diesel down here. Still no problems, it has a plastic float in the carb btw.

I've read this with a wry smile, I would wager that you've got a number of factors combining to cause an issue but here are some ideas I have: 1) 1.2 transfer box is too high for a defender IMO - my old 300 90 wouldnt pull it on anything but a flat motorway. Having said this my 110 feels like it could manage, but every now and then when towing I think better of it! 2) you have a VNT ( unless I am misreading?) Again I had a VNT on my 90 and it was great for low down grunt but top end I never felt it was quite as good as a standard turbo. 3) I would say that although you've got new hoses you still need to check if you have a leak - new hoses dont mean uanything if they're leaking 4) Check if your intercooler is leaking, again because it's new or fancy doesn't mean it isn't leaking. 5) Check you have some lobes on your camshaft, again I've seen a couple of TDIs with barely any valve movement and this leads to poor performance. 6) Have you got a leak on the boost pipe from turbo to FIP? Similarly is your VNT actuated with a diaphragm has it got a hole? 7) Valve timing is worth a check as mentioned. With respect I've seen a lot fo engines overhauled by experts and my opinion is that you are better doing it yourself and knowing it's right. This experience isn't just in Land Rovers, but also in my other vehicular interests. I viewed a 2ltr powered Series 1 recently that was restored and engine upgraded for performance etc, I was told the engine was built by an absolute specialist with years more experience than me, better cleaner worksho etc, and frankly when I drove it I was underwhelmed.

I've done even less than that on my Series 1 - still runs fine with no leaks. I haven't noticed an affect on the cork gaskets on the tank.

Saw one in the flesh at the weekend, had a good look underneath as well. I'll say it all looks very interesting underneath with plenty of scope for additions etc. The chassis had an excellent looking finish on it, (although not quite on par with my 90s after it was rebuilt), but certainly better than most Defenders I've seen. The interior was nice, it reminded me a lot of the defender, switch gear looks good etc. Always think that BMW shifter looks a little out of place. Steering wheel seemed small. Seats were nice and it was quite comfy, not L322 levels, but it seemed familiar as a Defender owner. Not bad really.

Very frustrating, I had just spent a fair chunk of money obtaining my trailer licence, having towed illegally for years, I felt it time to go by the book, expecially as I was moving the digger regularly. What a waste of money that was !

Does anyone here have experience of hydraulicvalve blocks controlled with solenoids? I would like to convert my older digger with manual controls to joysticks, at least in my head! Of course there will be an argument not to, and that will probably be the ned of tonights crazy plan, but is this doable?

SO wheel on backwards ( i tried this before btw) seems the way to go, otherwise it will strike the rear light with the door fully open. So next question, with the wheel on backwards, and the boost slipped over the solid bar parts of the carrier, I now need a nut with a sleeve so I can clamp the wheel down, any ideas on that? A standard nut won't get near it. I tried putting a standard nut behind the wheel, but it seems there's not enough thread, and also the wheel sits to far off the carrier.

Hi all, I've got one of these rear wheel carriers on my 110, since switching to Boost alloys, I can't see how to mount the spare to this carrier. With steel you simply bolt it up, but with a Boost the holes are larger in diameter, and it seems I need some flanges to stop the wheel hitting the door. On top of this, if I put the wheel on backwards, I have enough stud, so could just weld some stops to the carrier? Any thoughts?

I don't find the Defender seating uncomfortable as such, it's obviously not on L322 levels though. Trouble is with the Defender, its the combo of noise, slow speed and lack of creature comforts that make it less than ideal for long distance hauling in my opinion.

I sat in an L322 all the way to Portugal and back, and frankly I dread to think how I'd of felt sat in my 110 doing the same mileage!