dangerous doug Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Hi all, my transfer box has started to whine and it probably well overdue a rebuild with nearly 200k on the clock. I don't want to go to the extent of an Ashcroft one as I'm pretty sure I can rebuild it myself and I'm not keen on buying a second hand one as the prices of the 1.4 boxes are not much less than getting the box rebuilt, and not knowing the history of it I could still end up rebuilding that one. So my question is has anyone rebuilt their LT230? Tough job or simple? How many hours are in the rebuild? alternatively, anyone want to swap a 1.4 for the 1.2 I have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Easy to rebuild - especially with one of the overhaul kits you can get with all the bearings, sleeves, seals etc As for time, I rebuilt the last one significantly quicker than my first one, but probably took me a couple of days but did not work on it all the time. I am lucky I have a dishwasher in my workshop which saw plenty of action though! You have gone the other way to me - I have a 1.2 in my 110 now. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Doug, I've done a couple and they are much easier than a main gearbox. Just take your time, and take plenty of photos as you take it apart. I start on a clean bench lined with brown paper so that I can write observations and draw diagrams as I go.. The linkages for the diff lock I'd recommend getting the kit from Shabs Piercy at www.onlinegearboxparts.com and if you are feeling flush, consider a slick shift for the main box too. He sells known bearings and decent gaskets etc. Shabs also sells upgraded parts - cross-drilled input gear etc. Its all on the website. If you do buy a slick shift, buy a new turret (£15-ish) because the slots in the side wear, and take the time to set it up so that the stick wants to sit in neutral in between 3 & 4. I didn't initially and was frustrated with the feel, sent Shabs an email and got some very helpful texts back - top bloke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Thanks guys. I've had my eye on the rebuild kits for a while but didn't want to commit. I will be fitting the cross pin and proper bearings. Is a press absolutely essential? I have a pretty savage hydraulic puller which could work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 I didn't use a press, but did have a selection of brass dollies and a large vice with soft jaws. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 On 3/2/2017 at 7:15 PM, dangerous doug said: Thanks guys. I've had my eye on the rebuild kits for a while but didn't want to commit. I will be fitting the cross pin and proper bearings. Is a press absolutely essential? I have a pretty savage hydraulic puller which could work Did you ever do this Doug? Pondering having a go myself or letting Ashcrofts do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 Mike has a video guide on rebuilding LT230s (and also LT77s and R380s) on his BritRest (Britannica Restorations) YouTube videos. They’re very informative and he’s quite an entertaining presenter. He did another LT230 very recently, so there will be at least two series to watch on his channel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Do it yourself but you will need a press. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 6 hours ago, oneandtwo said: Do it yourself but you will need a press. Have a 25 ton press so that is no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 15, 2022 Share Posted January 15, 2022 (edited) On 5/25/2021 at 11:33 AM, L19MUD said: Pondering having a go myself or letting Ashcrofts do it Hi @L19MUD, what did you do? It might be written-up elsewhere so apologies if I’ve missed it. I have just removed mine today, got as far as removing the intermediate shaft and gears but then started to wonder if buying an exchange from Ashcroft would just make life simpler. Something in my head says don’t rebuild as I have loads of other things to do, like investigate a noisy Roamerdrive for a start. Edit. I was almost certainly going to change the diff too for the Ashcroft ATB. They will put one in if I ask. Edited January 15, 2022 by Peaklander 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 11 hours ago, Peaklander said: Hi @L19MUD, what did you do? It might be written-up elsewhere so apologies if I’ve missed it. I have just removed mine today, got as far as removing the intermediate shaft and gears but then started to wonder if buying an exchange from Ashcroft would just make life simpler. Something in my head says don’t rebuild as I have loads of other things to do, like investigate a noisy Roamerdrive for a start. Edit. I was almost certainly going to change the diff too for the Ashcroft ATB. They will put one in if I ask. I haven't done anything yet! It is still in the truck and in use. Whatever happens I will fit an Ashcroft ATB if I go to the effort of sorting the rest out 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 17 hours ago, Peaklander said: Hi @L19MUD, what did you do? It might be written-up elsewhere so apologies if I’ve missed it. I have just removed mine today, got as far as removing the intermediate shaft and gears but then started to wonder if buying an exchange from Ashcroft would just make life simpler. Something in my head says don’t rebuild as I have loads of other things to do, like investigate a noisy Roamerdrive for a start. Edit. I was almost certainly going to change the diff too for the Ashcroft ATB. They will put one in if I ask. Don’t be too scared of trying these things. If you do it to save labour charges, it’ll probably be a false economy as you would likely have to buy shim packs and tools, but if you want to do it for the learning and the challenge, there is little to lose - you can always get them to do it if you find yourself in over your head. They need more patience than anything else to set up, especially the diffs, but if you are keeping most of the parts and just replacing bearings and bushes and the centre diff, then the shims should already be set up from the factory. Even with diffs, that seems the case - I have found that with two Salisbury and now a Rover unit. You just need a bit of time and space and to be methodical. Since you have other things on and you want to rebuild your Roverdrive, you might want to consider the option a bit more. The Roverdrive won’t need the central needle bearing replaced unless another bearing has collapsed and the shafts have moved significantly (I’m assuming a similar configuration on the epicyclic unit to the Series version); that needle bearing supports the front end of the sun shaft, and whenever the unit is disengaged there is no relative motion between the shaft and the planter gear carrier. When the overdrive is engaged, the sun shaft is locked to the rear casing, so the bearing will now spin up, but it carries little load as the planet gears will centre the carrier on the shaft - the beauty of epicyclic gears is that they have no tangential loads and so their bearings tend to last well. You wouldn’t need to strip the unit with the difficult circlips to get at that sun bearing, just replacing the more easily accessed bearings in the casings and on the big assemblies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 Yes I rebuilt mine, and didn’t need a press. Be warned you need a good selection of shims to get things right. I also stripped three transfer boxes to get enough good bits to rebuild one good one. The centre diffs are often very worn as there aren’t really any proper bearings in them. Beware the casings can also wear and the holes in the casing that the pin the intermediate gear runs on can wear and and require sleeving (or just find a better case). Replace all the bearings and make sure you follow the manual and shim it all correctly. easy enough otherwise. jon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 I was told by a re-builder (not Ashcrofts) that the Intermediate shaft would be worn and so would the thrust washers in the diff. The shaft looks worn but I only have a cheapy caliper, not a micrometer so I can't measure it accurately enough. I do have a small press, bought just the other day as it popped up on FB but whether I have enough old races and sockets to use as mandrels, I don't know. I'd maybe get started and then have to go and find some bar and tube offcuts or find a machine shop who could make a few. I suppose if I overhaul or exchange I will still specify the sleeved case, maybe just a recon Intermediate shaft, a full bearing / overhaul kit, etc etc. so costs will easily rise. I think I will pay for Ashcroft labour, buy an exchange, sleeved unit, get their ATB fitted and be happy that it is done, perfectly. I still need to repair the Roamerdrive and I must look at my front diff - I'm sure that needs checking too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 I wouldn’t use that pin. If not worn, it at least looks pitted and corroded. Together with the Roverdrive photos, I think you have had water ingress ruin the oil and lead to all these bearing issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 15 hours ago, Peaklander said: I was told by a re-builder (not Ashcrofts) that the Intermediate shaft would be worn and so would the thrust washers in the diff. The shaft looks worn but I only have a cheapy caliper, not a micrometer so I can't measure it accurately enough. I do have a small press, bought just the other day as it popped up on FB but whether I have enough old races and sockets to use as mandrels, I don't know. I'd maybe get started and then have to go and find some bar and tube offcuts or find a machine shop who could make a few. I suppose if I overhaul or exchange I will still specify the sleeved case, maybe just a recon Intermediate shaft, a full bearing / overhaul kit, etc etc. so costs will easily rise. I think I will pay for Ashcroft labour, buy an exchange, sleeved unit, get their ATB fitted and be happy that it is done, perfectly. I still need to repair the Roamerdrive and I must look at my front diff - I'm sure that needs checking too. I like the word Warranty. I can never find the time for bigger jobs , these days... I hate paying for work, not becuase I'm tight, but becuase I'm poor, but worse still is the time that the vehicle is off the road 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 9 hours ago, Nonimouse said: I like the word Warranty. I can never find the time for bigger jobs , these days... I hate paying for work, not becuase I'm tight, but becuase I'm poor, but worse still is the time that the vehicle is off the road You are not alone Lovvers ! 😁 Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 9 hours ago, Nonimouse said: I like the word Warranty 😀 yes it is a nice thing to have; peace of mind and all that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 On 1/16/2022 at 4:23 PM, Snagger said: Together with the Roverdrive photos, I think you have had water ingress ruin the oil and lead to all these bearing issues I don't know how that can have happened. I haven't had any oil leaks and not done any deep water so I can;t see how water can have got in. i don't think that the drained oil has any water in it but maybe it's sitting underneath in the bowl I used. The intermediate shaft discolouration looks worse than it is and I don't think it is pitted. At the moment it is back in the case whilst I decide what to do, so I can't quickly have another look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 53 minutes ago, Peaklander said: I don't know how that can have happened. I haven't had any oil leaks and not done any deep water so I can;t see how water can have got in. i don't think that the drained oil has any water in it but maybe it's sitting underneath in the bowl I used. The intermediate shaft discolouration looks worse than it is and I don't think it is pitted. At the moment it is back in the case whilst I decide what to do, so I can't quickly have another look! Condensation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 3 hours ago, Peaklander said: I don't know how that can have happened. I haven't had any oil leaks and not done any deep water so I can;t see how water can have got in. i don't think that the drained oil has any water in it but maybe it's sitting underneath in the bowl I used. @Nonimouse has it right I think, my last LT230 was removed because, after being parked up for a long period, the selector shaft in the top section actually got so furry with surface rust that it seized in the housing and thus made it impossible to select high range. Box had plenty of fresh oil etc. wasn't worn or damaged but you could swing off the hi-low lever with your feet against the dashboard and it would not budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 I'll probably never know, as functionally there's nothing wrong with the T Box. I have only removed it to overhaul as planned maintenance. The Roamerdrive is a different case though, as that was noisy but not excessively so and was working fine. There seems to be a lot wrong inside, noisy sun shaft bearing and wobbly planet gears, even though there was plenty of oil in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 Which way are the planet gears loose? Longitudinal or radial? The oil on the sun gear photo looks emulsified to me, hence the suspicion of water ingress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 If you get condensation in a T box, gearbox, diffs, ps pump and vacuum pump, then you'll get it in an overdrive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 OK yes I understand your point. I don't know how to protect against it though. Perhaps I should link across to my Roamerdrive investigation as this thread has got a little crossed with the other one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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