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I first saw this thread nearly 5 years ago with a Scotsman machining his own brake discs from solid chunks of steel....

I thought that was very ambitious.  Now look at What Stephen has achieved!

Incredible.🤩

Now sort the minor teething troubles, bin the TDI and chuck a 4.6 RV8 in there! 😁

Well done Stephen!

 

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7 minutes ago, TD5toV8110 said:

I first saw this thread nearly 5 years ago with a Scotsman machining his own brake discs from solid chunks of steel....

I thought that was very ambitious.  Now look at What Stephen has achieved!

Incredible.🤩

Now sort the minor teething troubles, bin the TDI and chuck a 4.6 RV8 in there! 😁

Well done Stephen!

 

Thanks very much Dave although I need to correct you on one thing, I'm English and happen to live in this beautiful part of the world

Regards Stephen

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9 hours ago, steve b said:

 

What psi did you have in the tyres? What is the minimum rim diameter to clear the brakes

Ran them at 15psi, going to remove valves and see what happens

Unfortunately the rims need to clear more than the brakes due to the wheel inset to help reduce overall width

Regards Stephen 

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I think all very valid plans.

On the turbo front, maybe a sequential setup would work better?

A 4.6 V8 is definitely the right fix.

Something I noticed driving behind you: some of your wheels looked to have quite a lot of runout.

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8 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said:

Ha Ha I used to be a Geordie! 

Born 80 miles from the Scottish border!

Lived in Scotland for 3 years in the Royal Air Force!

Edit, are you keeping an eye out for a V8 yet!😁

We've been closer than you think, was born in Northumberland

regards Stephen

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Fit one of nicks fuel pins and the dynamic spacer also if you wish, remove the max fuel screw, knock the safety collar off and chase the threads before re fitting a turn or two further in. Get a waste gate valve and set it to 20-25 psi measured at the inlet manifold it will be night and day. I also wire a buzzer into the oil pressure circuit, easy to miss a little red light...

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I'd get it on the weighbridge - that will sort the spring question but also tell you how much power would be adequate, I think the truck may be lighter than some folks predict and a 4.0 (easily sourced from any old D2) could work nicely, especially with the low gearing. Some folks even claim the 3.9/4.0 are the best because being square they rev nicer or something... personally I always thought that's just stuff people tell themselves because they didn't get a 4.6 but you never know :lol:

On the steering boxes - the Gemmer 6-bolt is described in the early parts manual as the "heavy duty" one, the 4-bolt is described as "light" so that's that... I run a D2 box on the 109 as I was told they have stronger sector shafts and so far it's been impeccable, but they are different in the mounting & arm to everything else. Not massively different, but enough to require work.

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A bit of tyre information 

I let one of the tyres down

Full20230628_094017.thumb.jpg.312fdbd09f03d3ab68a0dba959b7d995.jpg

Empty

20230628_094026.thumb.jpg.51312431aca4b5ea4b429308e6b786a2.jpg

you can see the tyre wall will deform

6psi

20230628_094659.thumb.jpg.c22104b812efdfc54874a404f6cf8829.jpg

So my thoughts are this, tyres are probably not too bad, I think the main issue is that the tyre wall is short and not as easily deformed as a higher tyre wall, it may be a case of making  some bead locks and running lower pressures

Regards Stephen 

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i've never liked the 6 bolt boxes
my 110 had one when i got it and never felt great so i got a reconned one  which wasn't much nicer
i swapped for a disco one with the flat arm and steering was vastly improved
if you want a 6 bolt i have one you can have

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On 2/1/2022 at 1:51 PM, Stellaghost said:

Have mounted rim onto axle to see what clearances are like

 

20220201_134314.thumb.jpg.cc73176119da28c801a77481ee5629aa.jpg

from the top

 

I have a question: what is the worst-case clearance to the portal box?

The reason I ask is that, no matter how good the tires are, as you state the side wall height is the limiting factor. With the danger of giving you another job to do, you could construct some new wheels of split rim construction. This way, you don't need the hump to fit a tire and therefore have better clearance and you can go smaller on rim diameter. you can use a straight tube for the rims for better clearance still.

Design:

image.png.8ccffe94fedbe28bc4b2cca2fce7dbf4.png

 

Daan

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

So my thoughts are this, tyres are probably not too bad, I think the main issue is that the tyre wall is short and not as easily deformed as a higher tyre wall, it may be a case of making  some bead locks and running lower pressures

I think beadlocks would definitely help there. And more sidewall = more better, but I think beadlocks would be a good first step. And not wasted in case you step up to bigger tyres!

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

A bit of tyre information 

I let one of the tyres down

Full20230628_094017.thumb.jpg.312fdbd09f03d3ab68a0dba959b7d995.jpg

Empty

20230628_094026.thumb.jpg.51312431aca4b5ea4b429308e6b786a2.jpg

you can see the tyre wall will deform

6psi

20230628_094659.thumb.jpg.c22104b812efdfc54874a404f6cf8829.jpg

So my thoughts are this, tyres are probably not too bad, I think the main issue is that the tyre wall is short and not as easily deformed as a higher tyre wall, it may be a case of making  some bead locks and running lower pressures

Regards Stephen 

In addition I've introduced an obstacle for the tyres to mould around, looks better with the lower psi I think

20230628_114622.thumb.jpg.514bf4a677f1f85ffef640e21aa2cc1b.jpg

20230628_114633.thumb.jpg.f103d9acd7594ed0491578b7c79e3128.jpg

20230628_114639.thumb.jpg.bae14ce86eff1300de1fbafa077b5521.jpg

regards Stephen 

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45 minutes ago, Daan said:

I have a question: what is the worst-case clearance to the portal box?

The reason I ask is that, no matter how good the tires are, as you state the side wall height is the limiting factor. With the danger of giving you another job to do, you could construct some new wheels of split rim construction. This way, you don't need the hump to fit a tire and therefore have better clearance and you can go smaller on rim diameter. you can use a straight tube for the rims for better clearance still.

Design:

image.png.8ccffe94fedbe28bc4b2cca2fce7dbf4.png

 

Daan

Brilliant @Daan that is food for thought, might start sourcing materials just in case, or I could make a heavy duty slip roll to make my own tube........

Regards Stephen 

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It doesn't look like Sid's wheels have a bead on the inside of the rim in the photos but that could be the light.

My beadlocks work as daan shows, except as mine are single not double the disc part extends to capture the tyre instead of a tube between the two.

Mike

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

Brilliant @Daan that is food for thought, might start sourcing materials just in case, or I could make a heavy duty slip roll to make my own tube........

Regards Stephen 

DSC_0126.thumb.JPG.8c5f6605b1e4ac49e68198bc83ddc2c0.JPG

:ph34r: 20" OD...

The smaller bits in the back of the 110 for reference - not sure they'd be man enough at only 16mm thick though.

DSC_0127.thumb.JPG.24504efc3e2790394d71630765984551.JPG

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17 minutes ago, Daan said:

Ideally I would aim for 16" diameter and 1 inch thick, sorry 3mm thick.

Current tyres look to be a 20" - and without changing the offset (something which I recall Stephen didn't want to do as it's already quite wide) then I don't think you've got 2" clearance currently to the top of the portals. Might be able to drop to 18" though?

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