markyboy Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 3 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: Flywheel machining completed ring gear heated up and slipped on In position Starter motor cog engaged some small steel bushes to machine and a brass spigot bush to make to complete clutch side of things Regards Stephen Brilliant work, Stephen. Looks like a lovely finish on that flywheel. What did you decided to do for bolting the flywheel to the crank, or isn't it decided yet? Regards, Mark 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 11, 2023 Author Share Posted August 11, 2023 At the moment I'm going to make some small bushes that will take up the space between the tdi flywheel holes and the 1uz bolts, @jad used longer bolts, I'm thinking of using the original bolts and seeing if I can machine 2mm of the thickness of the flywheel on the clutch side to make solid flywheel the same thickness as the 1uz flex plate and associated spacers, 1uz set up is a tad over 9mm, tdi at present is 12mm, a compromise at 10mm should be plenty strong enough Regards Stephen 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 looking back through I may have used standard bolts? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted August 11, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 11, 2023 Flywheel back in 4 jaw and dialled in, clutch side Machined down to 10mm thickness to take standard bolts Bush making flywheel fitted with bushes thats it for now, grass to cut as it is a carp forcast regards Stephen 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 looking good Stephen Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 11, 2023 Author Share Posted August 11, 2023 Nothing to do with axles, but cropped these during machining work .........lol regards Stephen 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 2 hours ago, Stellaghost said: thats it for now, grass to cut as it is a carp forcast Sounds like ours, I've started taking the machete on the tractor with me when I mow the lawns to cut the brambles trying to decapitate me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 On 8/11/2023 at 1:38 PM, Stellaghost said: For anyone that might know this stamp is on the 1uz ECU it reads 95 1 30, could this possibly be a manufacturer date, we would write it as 30/1/95 but I don't know how the Japanese would write it regards Stephen From the good folks at Google... The most commonly used date format in Japan is "year month day (weekday)", with the Japanese characters meaning "year", "month" and "day" inserted after the numerals. Example: 2008年12月31日 (水) for "Wednesday 31 December 2008". 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnoK Posted August 12, 2023 Share Posted August 12, 2023 On 8/11/2023 at 3:38 PM, Stellaghost said: Starter motor cog engaged some small steel bushes to machine and a brass spigot bush to make to complete clutch side of things Regards Stephen Isn't that ring gear on wrong way around? Should the tapered side of the teeth not face the starter motor? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 38 minutes ago, JohnnoK said: Isn't that ring gear on wrong way around? Should the tapered side of the teeth not face the starter motor? Well done that man... yes it is on the wrong way, I had noticed last night, changing over tonight Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 12, 2023 Author Share Posted August 12, 2023 Spigot Bush made and fitted A piece of random brass Fitted regards Stephen 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted August 12, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 12, 2023 My silly mistake rectified, ring gear removed and re-fitted in the correct configuration regards Stephen 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 Pottering on with gearbox onto 1uz Second hand clutch fitted first then slid gearbox into position so adaptor needs to be 11/2" wide this will give me problems as its too big to go into lathe also i dont have a cnc mill ( wouldn't be able to figure it out if i had) So I'm thinking about making a steel mould and casting an adapter. I have a gearbox bellhousing off a D1 I can cut up and melt down this will give me the correct alloy mix What do you think.....lot of work I know Regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 (edited) 33 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: Pottering on with gearbox onto 1uz Second hand clutch fitted first then slid gearbox into position so adaptor needs to be 11/2" wide this will give me problems as its too big to go into lathe also i dont have a cnc mill ( wouldn't be able to figure it out if i had) So I'm thinking about making a steel mould and casting an adapter. I have a gearbox bellhousing off a D1 I can cut up and melt down this will give me the correct alloy mix What do you think.....lot of work I know Regards Stephen Make one up in mdf, and have that waterjetted? I mean.. when casted it still needs a lot of milling Edited August 13, 2023 by Wytze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 34 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: this will give me problems as its too big to go into lathe also i dont have a cnc mill ( wouldn't be able to figure it out if i had) Do you really need a lathe or CNC? The outside and inside can just be roughly bandsawed/..., and the hole locations can probably be done in multiple setups in the mill? If it helps, I'm sure many people around here would be more than happy to make a drawing with offsets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 7 minutes ago, Wytze said: Make one up in mdf, and have that waterjetted? I mean.. when casted it still needs a lot of milling That is a good idea..but I don't have a water jet machine...also I'm running true to form...have you not realised yet I'm stubborn.......lol Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 32 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: this will give me problems as its too big to go into lathe also i dont have a cnc mill ( wouldn't be able to figure it out if i had) So I'm thinking about making a steel mould and casting an adapter. I have a gearbox bellhousing off a D1 I can cut up and melt down this will give me the correct alloy mix What do you think.....lot of work I know Regards Stephen Similar to @Wytze why not CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design)? Or MDF, basically rough out a shape from MDF or something similar to get the engine side of the mount - if you smear some dirt / grease over the bolt holes (or possibly just hit with a hammer) you can get the locations onto the template. Then flip it over and do the same for the gearbox - this side should be easier because you can centre punch through the bell housing holes. If you were being fancy just grab a load of bolts and turn them down on the lathe into punches - wind them into the engine face and then hold the MDF up against it and thwack it with a hammer to get the centres. You can turn down a dowel that fits into the centre of the crank and sticks out far enough to get the location of the crank as an alignment but that's not that critical because the main shaft of the gearboxes usually have quite a bit of float in them and it's the spigot bearing that holds it in place. If you got a slab of Ali / steel then you could rough it out with a jigsaw (I've used my M18 Jigsaw for cutting through some pretty thick aluminium and it works well - that way you're not wasting a huge amount out of the centre. I don't think the material matters too much because all you're doing is bolting the two bits together and as along as they're strong enough then it's good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 8 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: That is a good idea..but I don't have a water jet machine...also I'm running true to form...have you not realised yet I'm stubborn.......lol Regards Stephen Stubborn is good.. I like that😁 In MDF, you can tinker with it.. till your spot on, cast a slab, mill that flat and to thickness. And drill, hacksaw, sand , needle thread away😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 11 minutes ago, Ed Poore said: Similar to @Wytze why not CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design)? Or MDF, basically rough out a shape from MDF or something similar to get the engine side of the mount - if you smear some dirt / grease over the bolt holes (or possibly just hit with a hammer) you can get the locations onto the template. Then flip it over and do the same for the gearbox - this side should be easier because you can centre punch through the bell housing holes. If you were being fancy just grab a load of bolts and turn them down on the lathe into punches - wind them into the engine face and then hold the MDF up against it and thwack it with a hammer to get the centres. You can turn down a dowel that fits into the centre of the crank and sticks out far enough to get the location of the crank as an alignment but that's not that critical because the main shaft of the gearboxes usually have quite a bit of float in them and it's the spigot bearing that holds it in place. If you got a slab of Ali / steel then you could rough it out with a jigsaw (I've used my M18 Jigsaw for cutting through some pretty thick aluminium and it works well - that way you're not wasting a huge amount out of the centre. I don't think the material matters too much because all you're doing is bolting the two bits together and as along as they're strong enough then it's good enough. Allso.. why not relocate the starter at the same time.. Like you said, weird place to mount a starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 17 minutes ago, Ed Poore said: @Wytze if you smear some dirt / grease over the bolt holes This^^^^^^ has already happened..lol Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 FFS - you need to be faster at typing / computers. There's little point asking for advice if you've already accomplished the task. You've probably got the engine in as I'm writing this - I know you won't have fired it up because you'll be procrastinating over it as that's electrics 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 (edited) This thread updates quicker than I can eat my lunch! Edit: I should add that it is a great read, especially as it's all out of my league and that's what makes it all the more interesting. Edited August 13, 2023 by Peaklander 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 42 minutes ago, Wytze said: Allso.. why not relocate the starter at the same time.. Like you said, weird place to mount a starter No other place for it, plus it is out of the mire where it is.... And the inlet isn't that bad of a job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 What about the correct bell housing for the 1uz and the LR bell housing coming together with the band saw and TIG welder? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 13, 2023 Author Share Posted August 13, 2023 27 minutes ago, Ed Poore said: FFS - you need to be faster at typing / computers. There's little point asking for advice if you've already accomplished the task. You've probably got the engine in as I'm writing this - I know you won't have fired it up because you'll be procrastinating over it as that's electrics That made me laugh lots, still chuckling you crazy man... Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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