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What are the injector seal failures? I mean what’s the material and if it’s copper why do they fail?

I don’t know anything about the Puma engine but a daughter has a Ford Tourneo Custom and that has the same or a v similar engine. (I think). 

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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Would something like the normal vent on a tdi work better? Lets it condense and then drop back into the sump IIRC? 

 

That should work initially, but the problem comes in as the engine's mileage grows and natural wear occurs the crankcase pressure increases and the venting follows the path of least resistance, so sooner or later it's going to become more than the PCV can handle and then it will come up the oil flow into the sump and negate the vent's effectivity.

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The entire rocker cover is a simplified PCV and the output pipe from the spring loaded valve which is connected to the air intake is designed to allow any moisture within the rocker cover to enter the air intake.  ( JLR produced a heated section to be fitted to this pipe as when under extreme cold temperatures, any moisture in the pipe would freeze and could potentially block the pipe )

In instances of increased pressure due to failed injector seals or loose injectors, it will also allow oil to enter this pipe, this is why people fit Provent's to capture the oil as it's a common issue.

Having rebuilt the engine twice ( 1 top end and 1 full 5000 miles ago ), each time the head has been cleaned and the injector wells have been thoroughly cleaned and new original copper seals fitted on the last rebuild.

I have another set of seals, bolts and clamps as i carry them as spares now and i will over the next few weeks i will take the injectors out as i'm curious to see if injector no 4 is, again, the culprit.

 It's done 170k and is tuned to 175bhp and performed 3000 miles in the last 2 weeks up and down mountains all over the UK and in an ideal world i'd look at reconditioning the engine with Turners, but at the moment, that's not realistic, so i'll live with it.

 

I just need to remember to check things :D

 

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1 hour ago, western said:

Looks great, we'll thought out, liking the self built cupboards. 

Having had a good look around it, it was the quality of the work on fitting it out and the thought that had gone into creating the kind of accommodation you'd actually want to live in. 

This isn't a choice between practical seating or a decent bed. For example, unlike some layouts you don't have to sit on your bed during the day or move a ton of stuff to get at storage. You have a proper sofa when you want it and accessible storage in the units that don't get blocked by the bed in sleeper configuration, so you have to get out to find your clean pants in the morning. Or something.

Sounds like I'm giving it a sales pitch but I was really impressed with this car and what Paul has done to it.

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18 hours ago, Badger110 said:

I have another set of seals, bolts and clamps as i carry them as spares now and i will over the next few weeks i will take the injectors out as i'm curious to see if injector no 4 is, again, the culprit.

 

Do you think it would help to anneal the copper seals first?

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16 hours ago, JohnnoK said:

It may also help if there any minor defects on the seal face or injector flange as well.


would you recommend fitting them whilst still warm or will t he annealing soften them up enough once cooled?

 

 

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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

They need to be soft to crush and deform to any imperfections. 

But softer than copper already is?

I only query it as I work with ultra high vacuum on a daily basis and the copper gaskets we use are not to my knowledge annealed. Everything from ~25mm OD up to 650mm, and they’ll take up all sorts of damage in the seal faces and not leak (bear in mind we use helium for its tiny molecule size).

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3 hours ago, landroversforever said:

But softer than copper already is?

I only query it as I work with ultra high vacuum on a daily basis and the copper gaskets we use are not to my knowledge annealed. Everything from ~25mm OD up to 650mm, and they’ll take up all sorts of damage in the seal faces and not leak (bear in mind we use helium for its tiny molecule size).

Copper is a funny metal.  It hardens with work and over time - don't ask me how but it is observable.  When you buy new copper gaskets, they very likely have been annealed in the factory.  That is, in fact, why copper is used.  It's "soft" but not soft like a paper gasket or rubber O-ring.  Just soft enough to distort slightly in the event the mating surface isn't quite true, which gives a little leeway in the manufacturing process.  Annealing an old copper washer (as described by JohnnoK above - but maybe not quite cherry red and glowing!) softens it enough to fix a myriad of small leaks.  Oddly, the exact same process will harden steel, which confuses people...

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9 hours ago, deep said:

Copper is a funny metal.  It hardens with work and over time - don't ask me how but it is observable.  When you buy new copper gaskets, they very likely have been annealed in the factory.  That is, in fact, why copper is used.  It's "soft" but not soft like a paper gasket or rubber O-ring.  Just soft enough to distort slightly in the event the mating surface isn't quite true, which gives a little leeway in the manufacturing process.  Annealing an old copper washer (as described by JohnnoK above - but maybe not quite cherry red and glowing!) softens it enough to fix a myriad of small leaks.  Oddly, the exact same process will harden steel, which confuses people...

No, Sir! Only new ones, I don't reuse those fellows at all.

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13 hours ago, deep said:

Copper is a funny metal.  It hardens with work and over time - don't ask me how but it is observable.  When you buy new copper gaskets, they very likely have been annealed in the factory.  That is, in fact, why copper is used.  It's "soft" but not soft like a paper gasket or rubber O-ring.  Just soft enough to distort slightly in the event the mating surface isn't quite true, which gives a little leeway in the manufacturing process.  Annealing an old copper washer (as described by JohnnoK above - but maybe not quite cherry red and glowing!) softens it enough to fix a myriad of small leaks.  Oddly, the exact same process will harden steel, which confuses people...

Just checked, my usual suppliers are not annealed! 

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12 hours ago, JohnnoK said:

No, Sir! Only new ones, I don't reuse those fellows at all.

And I thought I was pedantic! I referred to the process you described (to give you the credit), not how new or used your "fellows" were.

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8 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Just checked, my usual suppliers are not annealed! 

Thanks for the early morning chuckle.  I know what you mean but the way it read was amusing - I know I'd hate to go through that process!  Sounds painful.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Nearing the heavier side of standard weight I wanted to upgrade the brakes without going silly and festooning it with 12 pot callipers and 3ft discs, I opted for drilled and recessed discs from Lof which weren’t too bad in price and will at least allow the gas build up on long braking sessions to be dissipated better.

 

I also noted some funk gunk was appearing on the rear calliper and as the days job of building the bike ground to a halt, the new boxes of discs were tempting me to fit them and at least rescue the day.

 

557C2869-D345-4E8C-AC4E-85C34D5A31C7.jpeg.7297b820fa9e82543e0b9327c38edd5e.jpeg991F2588-CF9B-48CA-BDB2-50E0E0465A59.jpeg.4204752381a2ab9bc77ff9f7209d9c51.jpeg93358EB8-54E0-46B2-B913-C0B051F0BA0E.jpeg.79fe473ca2d38dce0e9fd9db94a32221.jpeg

 

yup definitely something going on here.

 

It was at this point that the workshop fairies had been and wandered off with my 52mm socket to get the hub off.

45 minutes later I was sat ordering another one off Amazon as I’d given up looking for something which given the lack of responses of local friends to my question ‘ have you got my 52mm ya fecker?! ‘ was proof that one of them did indeed have it and I wasn’t likely to see it before August…

 

Not being able to do much more I turned my attention to the adjusting X eng ARB and which has a little movement in it.  
 

I stripped the FWH down, signs of water ingress and usual carp inside

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Sure enough there is movement 

 

 

Given the age of it and although it would clean up, the movement is beyond me to rectify at the moment, so I’ll order a replacement FWH

 

9A53DA11-A615-4620-A027-CEBB184C6BD3.jpeg

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