Gazzar Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Snagger said: Near the heater unit, on top of the head, similar to a 200Tdi. I must have got mixed up, because now I think harder, I used SIII pipes on my 12J to the thermostat housing, and the sender unit on the top of the head near the heater. It was between the second and third head bolt from the back, so roughly between the intake ports for 3 and 4. I don’t know if the petrol head has that, but it’d be a good spot if it does. With your sender in the thermostat housing and if you do have that spot on the top of the head, you’re set. If not, it might be worth using the 90/110 thermostat housing top piece and have one of the sender ports tapped. All I've got is the heater return. I've never understood how the heater actually works: I'd have assumed the two ports on the head would be at the same pressure, and thus no flow! But the heater works well, when well maintained. Or, is this the outlet to the heater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 49 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Useful. I might ask Nige to suggest sensors, and start the discussion about the correct ms unit for this application. Getting a sensor that uses a thread that's cheap to tap would be good. MS1 can use any sensor too - it just needs a little bit of jiggery with a program (thermfactor) to insert the correct data into the firmware and re-flash the ECU but it's not hard. MS2 you can just set it like any other setting I believe. From memory the AT1010 is a metric thread, something like M14 so not super-common. ISTR I bought a few nuts on eBay and welded one on as a boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 Gotta love cheap tools! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 3 hours ago, Gazzar said: All I've got is the heater return. I've never understood how the heater actually works: I'd have assumed the two ports on the head would be at the same pressure, and thus no flow! But the heater works well, when well maintained. Or, is this the outlet to the heater? If you use the SIII thermostat housing, which I’m confident is a straight swap for the one on here, so you have two unions at the front, then you can use this position for the sensor. The heater will function as normal in a SIII. Alternatively, you can use that port for the heater return line and the remove the unused port in the thermostat housing for the sensor. Whatever works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 Exactly. Options. I'll try get the standard lightweight plumbing in, easier order parts in the future, so this 17H lower thermostat housing is a great idea. I think gauge in the housing, and ms CTS in the head should work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrover17H Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 (edited) I'm sure you've spotted this, in case you've not: A 17H with air/con takes its sender off the casting you've bought. I take your point on the budget, I'm the same. Whatever this 'grumpy' spends on a project, it's still a fraction of what Mr. Average shells out in HP payments for something shiny yet temporary, hence shedding £15-20K in five years. And deemed scrap in under ten? After which the whole process goes into 'rinse and repeat' - it must impress 'somebody'? i suspect you're the same - if you see it, you own it. If you can't walk into a dealership and write the full cheque, there ... then, somebody is saying you can't afford it. I'm gratified to know those in the finance world are kept in swimming-pools... Edited June 14, 2020 by Landrover17H 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Agreed. The other thing that winds me up is trading a car in to get a more economical one. Spending £10k to save £500 a year. Then trading in again in a couple of years time! Bugger it. Buy a V8 and run it forever. Still cheaper, and easier on the environment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 47 minutes ago, Gazzar said: Agreed. The other thing that winds me up is trading a car in to get a more economical one. Spending £10k to save £500 a year. Then trading in again in a couple of years time! Bugger it. Buy a V8 and run it forever. Still cheaper, and easier on the environment. And people called me crazy for putting the 4.6 in the ambulance - if we'd gone 200TDi we'd still be chugging along half-way up an alp right now, wearing ear defenders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Gazzar said: Agreed. The other thing that winds me up is trading a car in to get a more economical one. Spending £10k to save £500 a year. Then trading in again in a couple of years time! Bugger it. Buy a V8 and run it forever. Still cheaper, and easier on the environment. That’s exactly my way of thinking and the motivation to build my V8 auto. Once that’s done the TD5 is going 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 For me? 2a LWB Station wagon, interior mostly original, but full modern running gear. After the lightweight..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 As I wasn't entirety in great form this morning, I just did some pottering. First, on the topic of sensors, I cleaned up the thread for the coolant temperature sensor. It's currently an 18 thread, so Imperial of some form. It looks bad enough, but once I'd put the poor man's tap through it, it's okay , ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 On the subject of sensors, each one of the four I have in stock gives a different value. One is by Smith's instruments, if that makes any difference. I suppose I'll swap them around until I get one that gives me a nice reading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 I then played with the manifold. I fitted the bigserts into the exhaust coupling holes, and made the adapter. However..... I think I've drilled the main hole in the adapter for the intake too big. I thought the diameter below the throttle plate would be the size as above when I ordered the hole saw. It's not, it's smaller. I don't know if it matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 The adapter took a fair bit of time. I played with the router, but that was scary, so I used the belt sander to do the final shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Oh, and I dropped some acid in the block. I'll leave for a couple of days, then repeat. Then do the core plugs, and repeat up to the water pump level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 That aperture in the adapter bothers me. Do I have to make another adapter with a smaller hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 i would just match the intake manifold with the hole you made in the adapter plate ... (maybee mount the adapter en drill through the intake )...clean up the hole and be done with it .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 I did think of doing that. I did. That's a very good idea, but.... I'd worry about cutting through into the anti icing chamber. There's a chamber for the exhaust gases in at the top of the manifold. It's probably okay, as the hole for the original studs are between the chamber and the aperture. Right. I'll do that. It will be fine. Thank you. I'll use the insulator to change apertures, hole saw to the size of the throttle, and then file or out to the adapter size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 The surge tank arrived! It's nice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 I've no idea how to connect this to the standard nylon fuel pipe, but I'm sure that can be done. I presume the three pipe fittings are: 1) in - from lift pump 2) return - from injector 3) out - back to tank. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 It's a box with three holes in it and you've got 3 things to connect to it, you can't really get it wrong I put an inline filter on the return to create a small amount of back-pressure and show you that fuel is flowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 13 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: It's a box with three holes in it and you've got 3 things to connect to it, you can't really get it wrong I put an inline filter on the return to create a small amount of back-pressure and show you that fuel is flowing. You don't know me. I can break most things.......... trying out ideas. That's an excellent idea, it would stop fuel just sloping down the pipe. I presume genuine Bosch is the only way on this, or are there other Bosch shaped pumps that will stick decades of neglect and strange petrol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 More pottering, I'm waiting for the block cleaner to work. Manifold had been matched to the adapter. And my die grinder died. How smooth does this have to be? Does the rough surface encourage atomisation? By any chance ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Oh, and the helicoids for the insulator and throttle body are in. Blind holes. Because. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 I'll order a smaller hole saw and a die grinder set. If I start the hole in the insulator with the big hole saw on one side and the small one on the other side then I can use the grinder to blend the two together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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