uninformed Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 I bought a new pintle , found some safety chain clevis pin and blocks from a Perenti and have done a little more design work on my rear cross member. I also picked up the parts from the electroplaters. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steeee Posted March 5, 2021 Share Posted March 5, 2021 Do you have any pictures of your bed? also how is it mounted to the chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 15 hours ago, Steeee said: Do you have any pictures of your bed? also how is it mounted to the chassis If you go back to page 2, you will see my rear tub is picked apart, waiting to be modified to suit my application. It is just a standard Series11a LWB tub. I will have to reposition/reprofile the wheel openings first, then shorten front and rear to suit. It will be assembled the same way LR have done it, though my wheel wells may be a touch higher, the lower floor may be a touch narrower.... And it will be mounted the same way LR mount their tubs, that is, to the rear cross member, rear bulkhead outriggers and load bear on the chassis points. I might be using the Defender rear Bulkhead with all the other series bits? Floor and wheel wells will be new aluminium as they are simple flat/folded sections. I will be buying some new bits and pieces out of the UK from YRM (unless someone has a better source). Not sure if I will use solid rivets, but all "pop" style rivets will be structural "CherryMax" style rivets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steeee Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Sorry I meant the flat bed in the first picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 8 minutes ago, Steeee said: Sorry I meant the flat bed in the first picture ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steeee Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 13 hours ago, uninformed said: ahhh ok. It started as a standard fittment aluminium tray. These are made up of side extrusions that take tray planks that interlock with each other. Strong and light. They come with drop down side and rear gates about 200-250mm high (not shown in my pic) It was mounted to the rear cross member and to some of the load bearing points, but that is not the correct way to do it. There is an offical LR service bulletin/mounting document floating around the internet. Do what LR do! mount to rear cross member, and only load bare on the LB points. thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Well I was going to mark out the rear tub (Series) wheel arch and cut it to form the Defender shape. But after asking a few of the local 110 guys with bigger tyres and negative offset rims if and where their tyres rub on the body work, it seems I will have to wait until im a roing chassis and can cross articulate my set up. With my wide track and 130 rims (+20.6mm offset) it puts me at the equivilant of -56.4mm offset (from +33). Even though ill only be running 255/85R16 as daily tyres, the arc the axles swing may well have them fowling before tucking inside. Also looking at the Series vs Defender, it seems their wheel wells are pretty much the same height but the Defender arch is much higher, only ~15mm below the wells at peak of arch. Given I will be making new wells, at least I can make them higher if need be. On to other things I guess 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Not much to add but have got a bit done on my Radius arms. Still not finished and still not safe from the scrap pile... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 That's looking great! What's the plan for the chassis end? Pin? Joint? D2 type bush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 9 hours ago, landroversforever said: That's looking great! What's the plan for the chassis end? Pin? Joint? D2 type bush? Just the standard pin type. The eye/bush is fine but I prefer the rotation the pin gives. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 On 4/25/2021 at 8:53 AM, uninformed said: Still not finished and still not safe from the scrap pile... Please don't scrap it........... in this house that would go on the wall as a work of art! 😲 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 3 hours ago, Blanco said: Please don't scrap it........... in this house that would go on the wall as a work of art! 😲 Thanks. im not concerned whether it looks good or bad, my concern is getting the eye bosses true and square, on centre measurement, on “caster” within the arm itself and then make the second one identical. Even with a thought out procedure, pre heating and jigging, there was always going to be distortion. I have “heat straightened” this one into alignment. But it still has a little more welding to go and of course the second one has to be exactly the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Certainly looks better engineered than most of the fabricated arms you see sold on the aftermarket. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 (edited) 58 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Certainly looks better engineered than most of the fabricated arms you see sold on the aftermarket. Thanks, and I hope so. With limited budget , equipment and materials you can only have strong OR light, not both. 32x10 top and bottom flanges. 2x 4mm plate webs with 20mm separation. 4mm plate laminations (I still have to do them at axle end). All flanges to eye bosses are full penetration welds Edited April 27, 2021 by uninformed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Pretty picture but would you not fill that gap to avoid a stress riser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 3 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Pretty picture but would you not fill that gap to avoid a stress riser? That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 33 minutes ago, uninformed said: That is the root run, just showing full penetration of the flange. They were welded out (multiple passes) I assumed they would be, just had to ask though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Quality work here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Lovely ☺️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted May 12, 2021 Share Posted May 12, 2021 Epic work! I guess your name starts with S and ends O? Recognize some of that stunning fab work.... Cheers Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 13, 2021 Share Posted May 13, 2021 Some great fabrication, very tidy - going by the cleanliness of al those welds you're TIG-ing the whole lot? x-ray is quite the extreme NDT for this kind of fabrication, it should certainly insure your welds are clean of any anomalies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted May 14, 2021 Author Share Posted May 14, 2021 16 hours ago, Maverik said: Some great fabrication, very tidy - going by the cleanliness of al those welds you're TIG-ing the whole lot? x-ray is quite the extreme NDT for this kind of fabrication, it should certainly insure your welds are clean of any anomalies. Yes all TIG ( or GTAW ). The engineer is looking for two main things with X-ray, the quality of weld and penetration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted May 14, 2021 Author Share Posted May 14, 2021 I have both Radius arms to pretty much the same point and am just waiting on some more laser cuttings. These are coming with the rear cross member pieces. In the meantime I started fabricating a new transmission cross member. On the 300Tdi the cross member and the lower mounting brackets hang below the chassis rail. It looks like the original 4 bolt mounting points from the earlier 110 has been kept and then they added the 3x M8 holes further back. There is room for the RHS to move upward, flush with the bottom of main chassis rails. I removed the lower bracketry that was already buckled from mild off roading. Unfortunately there is rust in the main chassis rails due to crevice corrosion.... less than ideal, but better to find it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted May 14, 2021 Share Posted May 14, 2021 I did the same with the crossmember moved upwards; one of the best mods on the chassis for off roading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 New cross member... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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