Mediamab Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Unfortunately I’m not at a point to have a garage built yet so I’m stuck working on my v8 on the driveway which luckily is at back of the house and I have a very large shed turned workshop. Just wandered what people would advise for lifting the truck? Is there better alternatives to a trolley jack and axle stands? Mainly just looking for easier underside access. If they’re the best plan and actual products you’d advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 If you don't have to lift it, don't, even on a non-lofted truck access is pretty good just rolling under. If you do want to lift it, a proper LR bottle jack is often better(from the axle tube), though nothing to stop you using a trolley on the diff pumpkin, as long as it has a reasonable footprint, and not some cheap nasty thing. Then axle stands as required, again on the axle tube, normally, though you can put them under the chassis if working on suspension that requires it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 17 Author Share Posted January 17 Yeah it’s more for things like working on brakes, suspension etc so I guess really bottle or trolley jack and axle stands is the best option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Bottle or trolley jack and axle stands is all I do. Like you I have a workshop at the bottom of the garden but the drive is at the front of the house. Worst still I live on a fairly main road so I can't leave stuff out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 yeah luckily I have a driveway at the back near the workshop s its a bit safer. Debating buying one of those popup garages though to keep dry and a little warmer ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 We use Dan cover tents at work (like the pop up garage but much bigger) for boats they work well and definitely give a nicer work space. Two bits of advice first get a white one as they are much lighter inside so you're less likely to need lights. Secondly they suffer from condensation quite badly however you can either ventilate well to reduce it or adding a second layer of polythene inside with an air gap in-between makes a huge difference. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Ah ok thats good to know - I will look them up as something like that would be handy, I plan to do a respray in summer too so pretty essential for then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 A decent 3 ton trolley jack is my go-to. You don't necessarily need 3 ton capacity to lift a corner of a defender, but it makes a world of difference over those awful pressed-steel 2 ton jacks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Not so much about the weight for me, I think I have a no-name version of this: If anything looks like this, run far, far away: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Was thinking something like the below? https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tj3lp-jsr-low-profile-garage-trolley-jack-with-ratchet-axle-stands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 That SGS trolley jack is the one I have. However I found it in a reclamation yard with one broken wheel. Bought for £10 and got a new wheel and a pad from SGS. Excellent device. I have stands from them too but the pin ones. Not sure of the rating without looking but they are probably these https://www.sgs-engineering.com/js1-5-axle-stands 3 tonne ones. Maybe the ratchet type give you more height options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Yup minimum 3 ton stands, the 2 ton ones aren't long enough to keep a wheel off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 I also have Sealey brand like yours Bowie. It's more sturdy, but also the range of height seems to be better on this design, lower entry and all out better height. Great for Land Rover and normal cars! Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Yep, the range was a good selling point given I don't work on only land rovers.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 A set of drive-on ramps can be very useful when working without a lift as well. Even on a Land Rover, a bit of extra height makes some jobs a lot easier. And they're quick & easy to use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Looks like those SGS ones I shared will be a good buy for long term then, shame expensive tho ja Yeah @Escape I did think about those, especially for a longer perfiod for example. Do you have any advice on ones available? I just worry about them slipping ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 I was give a set (unbranded) some years ago while without a lift and they have seen regular use. Some deformation, probably because cause by a Range Rover Sport TDV8. 😛 Slipping is not really an issue with a Land Rover or other 4x4, unless on real slippery surfaces, as they'll actively climb onto the ramps. Once on them, they're very stable. I got a tip to put a piece of wood under one end to avoid the ramps being pushed away, and that seems to work well for RWD vehicles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 ah ok ill have a look into them then and for now maybe start with the jack and see if my hope of working on it quickly actually happens - so far im not getting far haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 It appears my criteria were slightly different, at the time, nearly 10 years ago, I was mainly working on my 38A. I wanted a long reach so I could place the jack under the axle without having to lie full length just to make sure the jack head was in the right position to lift. I went for a 'high lift' hydraulic jack to get the longer lift arm, and was quite content with a 1.5 tonne weight capacity, considering it was a commercial jack I was buying (I suspect these have a higher safety factor than the 'home mechanic' versions). I have no regrets about the decision, although it was a heavy old beast to load into a car, the only time I took it to a friend to help him out. The jack also handled the asymmetric loading that was part and parcel of lifting a LR axle. I think it was a Weber. Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Ahem.... I found this useful..... Regards Stephen 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 Now thats some heavy duty lifting haha will put my whimpy trolley jack to shame! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 A useful tip if using ramps is to rap a length of carpet around the bottom rung to drive onto before the ramp stopping it pushing away. I have a long reach 3 ton jack with 3 ton axle stands which gets the axle a good height off the ground. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 I really don't agree with ramps for a land rover, they are very often too flimsy and offer no tangible benefit over a lifted axle, IMHO. I have just scrapped three sets of ramps as they have all got ruined in various ways, mostly bent on the upramp, despite being rated to 2 tons. The 'trick' with carpet or cardboard or wood is something you can do, but really is a trick you shouldn't need. All IMHO, we can all disagree of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 I too find ramps a pain and often alarmingly flimsy - I won't put the LR on them and the Mini just scoots them away as it's too low sometimes I will jack the mini up and slide a ramp under a wheel instead of an axle stand though. For the LR's I use a 10-ton bottle jack I picked up cheap as it gives me the height I need and is quite fat so more stable than smaller ones, also easier to pick up & move than dragging the 3-ton trolley jack about the place. There used to be very nice 2-stage Mercedes Sprinter ones all over ebay for cheap. Always have at least one other thing holding the truck up (axle stands) as all jacks creep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Regarding ramps - some cut up bits of railway sleeper are wonderful, being a Land Rover you don't even need to cut the ends into an angle to drive on. Easily modifiable to any length you want, if you're flush you can have one sleeper per corner. I made some when I lived in Surrey because I didn't even have a driveway at home there and it meant that even if the air was completely out of the suspension on the L322 then I could still fit underneath it which made a big difference to me knowing I wasn't going to get squashed by 2.75t of Range Rover. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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