crclifford Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 And it helps that the cost has come down, with CW now doing the correction! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I have to agree. Mr Wabbit does an excellent job and the conversion totally transforms the truck. I can read the speed at night and no strange noises when it's cold ! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 It's a world of difference, and plenty of conversions happening these days...going by the prices of Td5 instrument sets on eBay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 just dug back through this thread, I've had mine fitted since May 2008 & working very well [where has all that time gone] this must be one of the most popular threads on LR4x4, with over 55000 views & 500 odd replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Sorry for asking as I'm sure its already been answered but i've managed to confuse the hell out of myself with the abs light. I have a 200tdi 110 with a level sender in the reservoir rather than the pdwa sender. So first question is do i need to remove the pdwa sender etc if its not doing anything? Second, what wires do I need to put to the level sender? I have a wire from a relay in the cab - brake check which is powered, and I also have the wire to the warning lamps. I have connected the brake warning light to the hand brake sensor (have the wrong hand brake at present but when earthed this works fine and comes on). I would like to use the abs light to come on for the level sender, but at present when I crank the engine over the brake check relay wire is obviously not connected to light this up - is it safe to do this? i.e. its a positive feed, can I put this in? And similarly the level sender is going into the abs light as described by western but I feel that I might have got all confuzed - and to top it off I cant find westerns response or my thread asking the question on this. Can anyone provide me a pin to pin override for the abs warning light so that it comes on for the brake check relay and also for the low level sender in the reservoir? Thanks in advance, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Also just to follow this up, I have just bought a new oil pressure warning sender (genuine) and I can't get it to work. Putting the wire on the engine lights up the board warning light, but the light doesn't come on pre crank. Any ideas on how I can test/resolve this issue? My thought is that the earth to the engine for the sender is bad but I thought that it was taken from the thread of the sender it should get it from the engine without issue. Engine earth is the starter motor and the temp sender works fine. The only point would be that the engine has been painted but the thread is still 'raw'. Does the earth come from the outside of the engine - i.e. where the sender meets the engine - if so this could be my issue, but would like confirmation before I go attacking the engine paint with a stanley knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 oil pressure sender earths through the engine, it should light with ignition on & extinguish once oil pressure is produced above the switch setting. is your engine earthed to the chassis ? if not that might be why the oil press light isn't working. might be worth taking the paint off at the switch location. as to the brake fluid low level warning, I ran one new wire from the switch terminal to a easy earth point, the 2nd wire goes to my low fluid level light via the PDWA 4 way bullet connector, it lights up on cranking as a light test then goes out. my PDWA is still fitted & connected electrically. my diagram below hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Sorry for being a pain,but I havent got the connector to go to the pdwa sensor - wasnt on the orginal loom of the project and now i have a custom job - incidentally not on my 90 either - what do i connect to what to fake the pdwa sensor being there to match your diagram. BTW thanks for the diagram western. much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 ok found your original comments western: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=67796&st=0&p=581665&hl=pdwa&fromsearch=1entry581665 without the pdwa sensor in this how do you get the brake check to light up the dash on crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 no need to fake the PDWA, just connect the low fluid switch to a earth & black/white wire. later vehicles after '91 only had the low fluid float switch, PDWA was deleted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 wont that stop the brake check relay working? If there is no connection from it to the bulb? Sorry probably being really dense here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 hasn't stopped the brake fail check on start in my 110, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PieEater3142 Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Ok, thanks western, will give it a bash and see what happens. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 looking at my wiring diagram in workshop manual the brake check relay has 2 black earth wires, a white/red from ignition switch, a black/white to PDWA &/or low luid level shows the black/white wire to low level switch then to warning light on dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 Eventually got round to doing mine - gone fairly smoothly so far to my surprise. Decided to the the instruments first, make sure that all works and then wire up the warning lights. mileage on the speedo comes up fine although transducer still to put in and test, fuel gauge looks right and temp seems o.k. Not your normal question on this conversion, but how do you change the time on the clock? It's going fine and I assume it's the 2 little buttons on the surround but pressing mine has no effect. Maybe that's why the whole cluster was cheap. Clock is YFB 100390 Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 to adjust the time clock, depress the buttons with a ballpoint pen or similar to move time forward or backwards, that's all my Td5 info says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 Thanks, that's what I thought. Unfortunately the buttons have no effect on mine although the clock itself works OK. I may try seeing if I can get inside it to see if it's something obvious - the buttons must surely just make contact behind to make the hands move. Either that or I disconnect the power until the time on the clock matches the actual time. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Well it's working now! I took it apart, which was fairly easy - Bezel off, glass out released the 2 latches on either side and the gubbins all drop out. The 2 buttons press down on 2 rubber pads which make contact with 2 small plates to move the hands forward/back. I took the hands off (they just pull off) and the face then comes off and you can see what you're doing. I cleaned up both the contacts and the bits they contact and hey presto I can change the time. The mistake I made was trying to put it all together and then put it back into the case. After a couple of minutes, I realised that if you drop the mechanism in and latch it, followed by the buttons, face and finally the hands it's a piece of cake. Glass and bezel on and back in - job done. Speedo works fine after I put the transducer in but the temp gauge doesn't It comes off the stop when the ignition is switched on and that's all so a bit more investigating to do. Am I right in thinking that the fuel gauge is the same but just a different face? If so I'll swap the 2 and see if the temp gauge is u/s otherwise it's got to be wiring. Getting there Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 good work making the clock operate, my temp gauge is wired direct from sender, might be worth a try with a extra long bit of wire as a quick test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I'm sure we you wired my temp sender through the speedo head to get it to be calibrated right Ralph? (using a 300tdi green top sender). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 don't forget I used the 300tdi ROW wiring loom on my Td5 instrument pack, so it is slightly different from the standard Td5 loom, IIRC yes we did yours via the speedo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 The ROW has the loom mod in it already for the temp sender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Yes, IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I've done the harness mod and have the sender so a bit of substitution with the fuel gauge is going to be my first stop. That should show whether the gauge works. If it does I guess I'll have to re check the wiring. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Well the gauge works fine so must be something to do with the wiring. I checked and checked and checked again that I've got the wiring mod done correctly but still no joy with the temp gauge. Next, going to try a wire direct from the sender to the gauge. Shame as the rest of it went so well. Malcolm Just tried a wire direct from the sender to the gauge and get what looks like a correct reading. According to the write up, this shouldn't work! Is there any reason why I shouldn't just wire it in this way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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