foggy3061 Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 If you're going to change the connectors for a matching male/female set, then I would suggest that the one you've linked to at Simtek is a bit undersized. Those AMP Multilock connectors use 070 (1.8mm) terminals, whereas the original Sumitomo connectors use 090 (2.3mm) terminals. A better choice would be the 15-Way AMP Mate-N-Lock series - http://www.simtekuk....p=12&cat=133588 These are what James uses in his Technical Blog - http://www.retroanac...a-200tdi300tdi/ . Well as the AMP Multilock and the AMP mate'n' lock are both rated at 15 amp, i would suggest its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 I used the 15 way one from V.W.P. Same as James, works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Well as the AMP Multilock and the AMP mate'n' lock are both rated at 15 amp, i would suggest its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other! I would dispute Simtek's 15A rating for 070 Multilocks. AMP (Tyco, TE connectivity, whatever ) say 10A - this would tie-in with the largest terminal available for these connectors being suitable for 1.25mm2 cable. Regardless of what current carrying capacity is quoted by cable suppliers (which is usually calculated for a single wire in free air), I work on the figure of 7 Amps per mm2 , which is a far more realistic figure for wires bundled into looms in vehicles. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 I would dispute Simtek's 15A rating for 070 Multilocks. AMP (Tyco, TE connectivity, whatever ) say 10A - this would tie-in with the largest terminal available for these connectors being suitable for 1.25mm2 cable. Regardless of what current carrying capacity is quoted by cable suppliers (which is usually calculated for a single wire in free air), I work on the figure of 7 Amps per mm2 , which is a far more realistic figure for wires bundled into looms in vehicles. . AMP / Tyco / TE + Raychem is in there somewhere too now! Sounds reasonable to work with 7A per mm2, though most of the TD5 speedo / gauge wiring is only 1mm2 i think - has been a while since i did the conversion - so it may well be suitable to use the AMP multilock. Simtek may well be correct with the 15A rating though, as AMP themselves state 15A on the 070 Multilock data sheet: http://docs-europe.e...66b8002180f.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 AMP / Tyco / TE + Raychem is in there somewhere too now! Sounds reasonable to work with 7A per mm2, though most of the TD5 speedo / gauge wiring is only 1mm2 i think - has been a while since i did the conversion - so it may well be suitable to use the AMP multilock. Simtek may well be correct with the 15A rating though, as AMP themselves state 15A on the 070 Multilock data sheet: http://docs-europe.e...66b8002180f.pdf There's a whole raft of well known companies and brands that are part of the Tyco empire. The TD5 instrument wiring is mostly 0.5mm2 and 1.0mm2, but there are three 1.5mm2 cables, according to my documents. Land Rover use 1.5mm2 cable into 070 Multilocks (on C0061 at the 10AS Alarm ECU, for example), so it must be OK. I've got that document you linked to, but didn't look at it, I found 10A on another Tech. Spec. document that I found on TE's website. So you were right, 070 Multilocks would be OK for this connection I must say that I prefer the look of Multilocks over Mate'N'Locks, which always look as though they should be in a washing machine or fridge, rather than a vehicle. I did all my bathroom down-lighters on 2-Way Mate'N'Locks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 There's a whole raft of well known companies and brands that are part of the Tyco empire. The TD5 instrument wiring is mostly 0.5mm2 and 1.0mm2, but there are three 1.5mm2 cables, according to my documents. Land Rover use 1.5mm2 cable into 070 Multilocks (on C0061 at the 10AS Alarm ECU, for example), so it must be OK. I've got that document you linked to, but didn't look at it, I found 10A on another Tech. Spec. document that I found on TE's website. So you were right, 070 Multilocks would be OK for this connection I must say that I prefer the look of Multilocks over Mate'N'Locks, which always look as though they should be in a washing machine or fridge, rather than a vehicle. I did all my bathroom down-lighters on 2-Way Mate'N'Locks . Yeah the Multilock does look a better quality product. Mate'n'locks do the job perfectly well but look a little more basic! Thats not a bad idea there, using Mate'n'locks for the down lighters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 is there any way with a TD5 clock that you can adjust what it says i.e. when it says im doing 50, im doing 63... can i make it say 63? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 only way to adjust the speedo for speed is to change the drive gear in the transfer box, for vehicles with 7.50 or 235/85 or 255/85 tyres use the FRC3310 blue 20 tooth gear as fitted to 110's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 is there any way with a TD5 clock that you can adjust what it says i.e. when it says im doing 50, im doing 63... can i make it say 63? CwazyWabbit would be the man to ask, see this - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69070&hl=&fromsearch=1 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 only way to adjust the speedo for speed is to change the drive gear in the transfer box, for vehicles with 7.50 or 235/85 or 255/85 tyres use the FRC3310 blue 20 tooth gear as fitted to 110's. was more thinking leafer with coiler diffs. i think its supposed to be about 30% out, the transducer probably wont even fit in a series xfer box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 is there any way with a TD5 clock that you can adjust what it says i.e. when it says im doing 50, im doing 63... can i make it say 63? CwazyWabbit would be the man to ask, see this - http://forums.lr4x4....l=&fromsearch=1 . It's possible to reprogram the internal memory chip to change the pulses per mile. PM me if you want me to do it for you, or all the details are in the thread Paul linked to if you fancy a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 was more thinking leafer with coiler diffs. i think its supposed to be about 30% out, the transducer probably wont even fit in a series xfer box. have you got a Td5 speedo fitted now or are you thinking about fitting one ? the transducer fits on the outside & replaces the speedo cable, the drive gear inside is retained , but the transducer probably won't fit a Series vehicle transfer box, so tweaking the 'brain' inside the Td5 speedo would probably be the easier option, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 i havent got 1 now, i just thought it would be the easiest way of getting the correct MPH on the speedo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potato head Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Having just completed this mod (many thanks to Retroanaconda, Western and everyone else that has input into this post and also CwazyWabbit who sorted out my mileage with a superb service) I have run into a couple of small issues regarding the warning panel. Key in ignition - position 0 Turn to position 1 - mileage lights up, fuel and temp gauge operate. During movement from 0 to 1, glow plug light comes on for a split second, no other lights on warning panel. Turn to position 2 - mileage goes out, power loss to fuel and temp gauges. Landy starts ok, mileage and gauges come back on, no lights on warning panel. Increase the revs and the glow plug light comes on and stays on. I'm not bothered about the glow plug light issue as I need to do the relay mod that has been mentioned earlier with both the BY cables. My issue at present is not having the std lights come on when the ignition is in position 1. Could this be an earth issue or a problem with the panel? For reference all the other lights are ok - indicators, rear heated screen, side lights etc etc. Any pointers appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 glowplug light should be on with charge & oil pressure light then go out after approx 8 seconds, my glowplug light came on/off very quick, a new timer relay cured it back to normal service [mentioned a lot earlier in this thread IIRC] could be a duff warning light panel led for the red charge & oil pressure lights or a connection is not quite 100%. nothing will light if the panel doesn't have permanent 12V feed & earth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
potato head Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 nothing will light if the panel doesn't have permanent 12V feed & earth. Ok, that means that I a good earth and permanent 12v. Is there a way I can test the LEDs for the oil and battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 you can feed each in turn by removing the warning light panel from the dash & opening the case [2 screws] the circuit board then looks like this.so putting a 12V & earth to the led should be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 only 12v shouldn't harm them if you do put it the wrong way round, but would be best to make sure it is the correct polarity before zapping them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuPot4x4 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi, Thanks for all the info in this thread, made it a lot easier to do. Got a couple of problems. 1 - The temp gauge doesnt work, it moves about 5mm when the ignition is on but thats all, i've done the ROW wiring and fitted a green AMR1425 sender. I've tested the gauge by connecting it to the fuel gauge wiring and its works. The only thing I can think of is the green sender wasn't an oem part, it was ALLMAKES. 2 - The speedo didn't work, so took the transducer out and found it had snapped the plastic square drive pin off the end of the transducer. Was it just bad luck or is there any way of telling if the drive pin is located properly as the transducer is spring loaded. I've ordered a new one but don't want to snap this one. Cheers Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Might be a temp sender fault, only way is try another known good one or a brand new genuine LR part, speed sensor just needs fitting very carefully, if you can see how the drive gear shaft is orientated then align the sensor to match, or partly extract the gear & housing then slide the sensor into the shaft & push back into transfer box hole & bolt up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuPot4x4 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Might be a temp sender fault, only way is try another known good one or a brand new genuine LR part, speed sensor just needs fitting very carefully, if you can see how the drive gear shaft is orientated then align the sensor to match, or partly extract the gear & housing then slide the sensor into the shaft & push back into transfer box hole & bolt up. Have ordered a genuine temp sender and another speed sensor, it's extremely tight for room fitting the speed sensor with the handbrake drum and cable still fitted. Will see if I can align it up better next time. Cheers Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Stuart, take the handbrake assy off (it's not hard) and it will all become much, much easier Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Its a bit fiddly, but possible. Much easier with an XBrake I believe! I broke the thin end of the speedo drive off when I fitted it wrong. However, it all still works...[not going to Jinx it!!!]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Have ordered a genuine temp sender and another speed sensor, it's extremely tight for room fitting the speed sensor with the handbrake drum and cable still fitted. Will see if I can align it up better next time. Cheers Stuart. one reason why I changed to the brill X-brake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuPot4x4 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Thanks for the replies, if I'm going to have to take the brake drum off, I might as well order a X-Brake Cheers Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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