Ben Spray Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hi All, dragging this thread up again I bought my instruments a couple of years ago and only just had time to fit them on Saturday! I've just re-read all 20 pages again but I cant figure out how to get the glow plug light to work and Im not 100% certain about the brake warning, I followed Retroanacondas guide and the brake warning light does nothing (with lid off /wires off the lid/handbrake on etc etc - nothing) but see that Western has a different method for the brake warning light wiring, which assuming thats been tested as working I'll pull the plugs and re-crimp etc tomorrow? What I plan to do is remove the link wire from 9 and 13, leave the black/white wire on pin 14, move the white/yellow wire to pin 9 and then put the link wire back in between 9 and 14 leaving 13 empty....? I assume I would have a handbrake switch? (I cant remember if the old light worked or not now, I though it did but have my doubts since fitting the new panel) Mine is a 1987 ex-mod 90 which originally had a 2.5NAD and is the hold in position type of ignition switch, the original 2 wires black/yellow either make the light stay on all the time or light on when the glowplugs are off and light off when they are on. Testing the wires one seems to be an earth and the other goes +12v when the glow plugs are on....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hmmm...this has me wondering... will a truck the age of mine have a handbrake light? its an '84. the P.O has put in the Td5 warning panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 doubt it's got the handbrake switch fitted, just move the handbrake gaiter & you'll soon see if the switch is fitted or not. with glowplugs energised the warning light should be illuminated, have you got the warning light panel earthed correctly ? my 110 has the brake system PDWA switch assembly too, I connected the brake master float cap into that circuit. like this from some of my earlier replies glowplug black/yellow trace goes to pin 12 on plug 0233 at the speedo end of warning light panel, I can go check my connections if you want me too brake fluid/failure warning needs to be connected across pins 9 & 14 on plug 0233, pin 13 wire is taped up not used had a look at mine, which has the timer relay for glowplugs, the warning light black/yellow trace wire comes from the same colour code wire off the relay loom direct to pin 12 of plug 0233 to warning light panel, can't remember what I did with the 2nd original wire, but they went to each side of original bulb IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hmmm...this has me wondering... will a truck the age of mine have a handbrake light? its an '84. the P.O has put in the Td5 warning panel. very unlikely, unless Mr White fitted one, the thread on how I fitted mine is in the tech archive electrical section IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 For the glow plugs you need a wire that is grounded when they are ON. Connected to pin 12 of the large plug this will illuminate the light. For brake warning it's the same, ground puts the light on. I don't know about the intricacies of early Defender wiring systems, but there will be a wire somewhere which is doing this as it would have done it on the old panel. Unless of course the old panel had a different system whereby the lights concerned were switched on the live side. Only some multi-metering will tell you that. Ross: Peel back the gaiter on the handbrake and see if there's a switch with a wire on it. If so, the system's there. None of mine have ever had one, although it's quite easy to add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 ^^^^ As western says about the Glow Plug light. However i haven't fixed mine yet (Still stays lit so i have taped over the LED and disconnected the glow plugs at the moment. BUt if one is the earth then could you connect to the correpsonding earth on the instrument panel and the live to the corresponding plug...which i think i will try next time i'm home...just have to work out which is the earth of the two YB cables!!! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 If it stays lit, does that just mean the glow plug timer relay isn't fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 refer to page 12 of this thread & check my replies about the problem with my glowplug light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Cheers Ralph, I'd already pulled the gaiter and couldnt see one, but I wondered if it had one under the seatbox or at the drum end of the linkage, guessing not though I'll try removing the 9 o 13 link wire and changing the wiring as per my last post / your diag.... Although I dont think at the moment I get the light on while cranking so not sure if this is stopped by the current wiring or if the panel is faulty.... Everything is wired up as per retroanacondas site, everything else works so I'd say its right, as I say testing those 2 wires which were on the glowplug light one is an earth (all the time) the other goes +12v when the glowplugs are energised (by holding the key on the spring - no relay/timer etc), as the glowplug light needs a switch to earth thats not going to work as far as I can see, using the earth one of the pair I get the light on all the time the ignition is on, using the other its on when the ignition is on and then off once the glowplugs are energised, then back to on once the engine is running! Guess if it really bothers me I can fit a relay to switch ground though, I cant see any other way around it? Regards Ben doubt it's got the handbrake switch fitted, just move the handbrake gaiter & you'll soon see if the switch is fitted or not. with glowplugs energised the warning light should be illuminated, have you got the warning light panel earthed correctly ? my 110 has the brake system PDWA switch assembly too, I connected the brake master float cap into that circuit. like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 In fact as Im having the panel off again tonight to look at the brake warning wiring I'll stick a relay in there for the glowplugs as it seems like an easy 5 minute job... I cant remember pin numbers for the relays off the top of my head but it should be as simple as: wires which were on the old bulb (one being earth one being +12v when active) can go to the relay coil contacts, turning the key will energise the coil. other 2 contacts of the relay go to earth and pin 12 on the warning light panel. so turn the key, coil energises, switchs the panel down to ground through the realy - simple....? Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Ps Cheers retroanaconda for all the consolidated info and diagrams on your site what is the pdf main wiring diagram drawn in (and the other digrams of the 16 and 20 pin warning light plugs) I'd quite like to modify them to add all of my wire colours and changes that I've scribbled on the (now rather dirty) printout as knowing what Im like if I have an issue with it in the future I will have forgotten by then...! Cheers Ben For the glow plugs you need a wire that is grounded when they are ON. Connected to pin 12 of the large plug this will illuminate the light. For brake warning it's the same, ground puts the light on. I don't know about the intricacies of early Defender wiring systems, but there will be a wire somewhere which is doing this as it would have done it on the old panel. Unless of course the old panel had a different system whereby the lights concerned were switched on the live side. Only some multi-metering will tell you that. Ross: Peel back the gaiter on the handbrake and see if there's a switch with a wire on it. If so, the system's there. None of mine have ever had one, although it's quite easy to add. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Sorry for the rather dubious diagram but just drawn this out at work... should make sense though, the 2 BY wires are the existing ones which were on lamp in the old warning panel, any reason why the "easier option" wouldnt work, rather than running a new earth wire just link those 2 contacts on the relay (the earthed BY and the contact I'm switching to pin 12 on the new warning lamp panel) Regards Ben In fact as Im having the panel off again tonight to look at the brake warning wiring I'll stick a relay in there for the glowplugs as it seems like an easy 5 minute job... I cant remember pin numbers for the relays off the top of my head but it should be as simple as: wires which were on the old bulb (one being earth one being +12v when active) can go to the relay coil contacts, turning the key will energise the coil. other 2 contacts of the relay go to earth and pin 12 on the warning light panel. so turn the key, coil energises, switchs the panel down to ground through the realy - simple....? Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Relay diagram looks ok to me. The write-up and diagrams are at best just a guide, every Land Rover is different as you're finding! Glad they were of use though I drew the main circuit diagram in MS Word of all things! And then exported to PDF. The images of the 16/20 way plugs were stolen from the RAVE CD, which has pinouts of all the connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Looking good Ben, reckon your almost done. I used this for the earth switching for my amber engine light now my winch soleniod/wiring energised light when winch isolator is switched on. 4 pin 30amp relay 86 12v from winch isloator 87 12v to warning light 85 & 30 to earth hopefully, it'll work for you too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 11, 2011 Share Posted January 11, 2011 Just back in from fitting the relay, the "Easier option" worked a treat, literally the 2 BY wires to 85 and 86 for the coil, 85 looped to 30 and 87 to pin 12 on the warning light panel, basically switches 87 to the BY wire which was an earth, anyway it works perfectly Just been for a quick run, speed seems to be accurate enough, certainly better than the old KMH speedo, everything else works, trip gets kept, fuel and temp also seem accurate enough and stable - who knows if the fuel light will work, I have 3/4 of a tank to use before I find that out. However....No such luck on the brake warning though, pulled the cap off the reservoir and tried disconnecting the link from 9 to 13 and linking pins 14 and 9 with the BW and WY wires joined in and I dont even get the lamp test on cranking still, left it for now will have to have a look when its light. Regards Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Ps Apart from giving digidash about £80 does anyone know how I can get the milage ont eh new speedo to match the old? it needs winding back about 80k miles.... (ie new one is at 150k original was at 70k) Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Ps Apart from giving digidash about £80 does anyone know how I can get the milage ont eh new speedo to match the old? it needs winding back about 80k miles.... (ie new one is at 150k original was at 70k) Cheers Ben refer back to page 11, post 273 by Pete -- bell auto services, might be worth a e.mail or phone call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Spray Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Cheers Ralph, I've dropped him a note... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davedef90 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 After reading all the pages I'm now considering doing this mod. If nothing else just to keep up with you lot. . Been trawling fleabay for a few weeks but nothing is coming up. Where do you all get your dials from? And what is an acceptable price to pay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hi Dave, found my inst. pack on ebay, paid about 40 quid for it IIRC, other places are Equicar & autocraft4x4, they break Defenders & might have some in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davedef90 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Many thanks. Will keep an eye out. Couldn't see a "thumbs up smilie" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Many thanks. Will keep an eye out. Couldn't see a "thumbs up smilie" there is one, click the smiley face above the text box, it opens a new window on the right of the text box, then click 'show all' in lower left corner of smiley list, this opens a new list which you can scroll to find one called 'i'm so happy' & it puts this it puts this into your reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 For the brake fluid level warning - check the switch in the cap actually works. Mine was gummed up with old brake fluid, a good clean and it's Ok but they can't be that expensive to replace I wouldn't have thought. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 For the brake fluid level warning - check the switch in the cap actually works. Mine was gummed up with old brake fluid, a good clean and it's Ok but they can't be that expensive to replace I wouldn't have thought. Malcolm got mine from ebay, but if you can't find one on there, here's the same float switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 After reading all the pages I'm now considering doing this mod. If nothing else just to keep up with you lot. . Been trawling fleabay for a few weeks but nothing is coming up. Where do you all get your dials from? And what is an acceptable price to pay? just seen this one on ebay & remembered your looking for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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