Les Henson Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 When rebuilding/restoring an engine, cleaning the individual components is a very necessary part of the work. Not only does it prevent dirt from getting inside the engine - it also makes it look 100% better. Tools required - Petrol Cellulose thinners/brake cleaner Heat resistant paint of your choice (I have used '5-wheel silver' in this thread) Variety of wire brushes that fit in an electric drill - including a small pointed one to get in all the little recesses 'Tooth brush' type wire brushes. The alloy will not only be muddy/oily, but will also have oxidised (alloy version of rust). The white scale comes off with a bit of patience, but usually leaves pitting in the alloy, which I have just painted over (filling it is a bit too much on the sad side ) Typical example of old alloy (timing cover on a 300TDi engine) After cleaning with petrol and hand hand held wire brushes it looks a lot better already Then 30-minutes or so with various wire brushes in an electric drill to remove heavy dirt and oxidisation Rinse off with cellulose thinners or brake cleaner to remove any traces of grease etc, allow to dry, and then 3 or 4 light coats of paint. All components can be restored in this way and the difference this makes is remarkable. Yes I know the engine is upside down Couple of things- don't press too hard with a wire brush in an electric drill - it's 'picks up' the alloy and leaves a permanent mark and be very careful on gasket faces or where oil seals/O-rings will be fitted. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Les - Looking superb and you are right it makes a big difference. On my current job, I'm stripping to component parts and ensuring every thread is good etc etc. Previously, I've assembled then painted but this time, I'm enjoying painting each part kinda like a giant airfix model. Prior to petrol / solvent washing, it is worth spending time with a paint scraper to remove the worst of the carp so that the parts washer / solvent bath doesn't turn to soup too quickly. Careful use of a stanley knife scraper is also useful for gasket faces and fine steel wool works wonders on rotating seal faces. I tend not to use the wire brush / drill on these areas because of the pick-up you mention which I guess is a form of galling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Very nice Les, you have taken a lot of trouble over this! We have some special 'alloy cleaner' in the workshop, similar to the caustic stuff they use on alloy wheels, but MUCH cheaper especially as we bought 20l of it. You mustn't leave it on too long, because it turns the alloy black if you don't watch it carefully. I presume it is caustic (alkaline) rather than acidic as the container doesn't say. It does avoid the need to actually paint the alloy though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 I used a stanley blade to clean gasket faces etc and 1200-grit wet/dry for seal lands and similar surfaces. I don't have a parts washer - I use a B&Q wheelbarrow to clean large parts in, and a turkey roasting dish or big old saucepan for smaller stuff. None of your hi-tech stuff round here Jim - I've used old battery acid to clean alloy parts before, although this is very risky and is fraught with danger. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Les, here's a silly story: Many moons ago I had a book on how to decoke your motor-bike engine. Pre-war (second, that is). I had a Villiers 2-stroke engine and decided to follow their advice to soak the head in stong caustic soda solution. Looked the next day and all the fins had gone! At least that mistake only cost me 2s 6d for another head at the scrap yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 for gods sake Les take some pride in your work? that kinda of shoddy approach is only ever going to come back and bite you later on! sweet work mate B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Nice job! A good first step to save some time is to give the local engine builder/recon place a ring, my local one is more than happy to run the bits through their industrial parts washer for me, a whole stripped rover v8 and bell housing cost a tenner and got it much better than i ever could. It will still need wire brushing etc as above though to get that level of bling B) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Very thorough Les, a superb job ! Bravo ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Beautiful job Les very impressive. With the painting did you need to prime the alloy first before putting the silver on? Also what black paint have you used for the block and sump? Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Blimey Les, thats far to clean to go in a LR, put on show very smart though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 I used Tetrosyl Engine enamel for the sump and block and Comma Wheel paint for the alloy components - this paint can go straight onto bare alloy without the need for etch primer. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Les, that engine is too beautiful to start up again! Another hint for part cleaning: the dishwasher, if you have one . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksmelly Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 At Billing a few years ago there was a guy selling Alloy cleaner. He cleaned a dirty old pair of SU's in about 2 mins with the mystery solution. Anyway, it was phosphoric acid. I've used it myself a few times, but you've got to make sure not to overdo it or it'll dissolve the aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Les, that engine is too beautiful to start up again! Yep, And a waste being a deep fat fryer that will leak the devils fluid everywhere But seriously spot on, cleaning things takes ages, but makes a HUGE diiference to the quality of the rebuild / repair, Nice touch to see Les has even colour coded the block and sump to match the leaks Oh my coat Any chance of a small Cod n chips before I g.......... . Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Yep,And a waste being a deep fat fryer that will leak the devils fluid everywhere But seriously spot on, cleaning things takes ages, but makes a HUGE diiference to the quality of the rebuild / repair, Nice touch to see Les has even colour coded the block and sump to match the leaks Oh my coat Any chance of a small Cod n chips before I g.......... . Eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek Nige Your fighting a loosing battle in many ways nigel. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 12, 2008 Author Share Posted January 12, 2008 Your fighting a loosing battle in many ways nigel. Too right - go away and megasquirt something. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 With a Battered sausage, and I'd like them "Open" ...Oh and with a squirt of vinegar and a tad more sal........................... uuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaagh Gerrroof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 hi temp silver paint works well on alloy too. have found some stainless steel coloured hammerite type stuff too, going to be using that somewhere on the disco. btw, engine looks well nice, top job sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Another hint for part cleaning: the dishwasher, if you have one . Very nice Les. What are people using in the dishwasher for 'soap'? Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Astro and Disco, are you related, as you both have the same surname :D Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 I know you said it was sad to fill on the alloy, but if you had a big score in it what would you use to fill it? I've got to tart up a motorbike engine casing just wondered what would withstand the heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 I think you have to use P38 on alloy, but if it stands up to heat or not I wouldn't know. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 As received After blastiing with very fine grit And a final beadblast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 That's pretty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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