SacredDog Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Let us know what the seller says re shank length, they'd finish the job off nicely! OK, question asked. I presume I am wanting 50mm of Shank? My finishing touch would be a small amount of Clear Silicon Rubber in the Hex to keep the crud out. There is nothing worse that spending ages trying to dig out that small stone thats wedged in the head. Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacredDog Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 OK, question asked. I presume I am wanting 50mm of Shank?My finishing touch would be a small amount of Clear Silicon Rubber in the Hex to keep the crud out. There is nothing worse that spending ages trying to dig out that small stone thats wedged in the head. Colin. I didn't get an answer to my question But I order a couple anyway as I wanted some other bolts he was selling. Unfortunately they didn't have a shank on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 This thread is now link from the Tech Archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rrover Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 hope your door check bars are in fine order or a strong gust of wind will kill the grease nipple. neat job though. Why the notch? Wouldn't want to do that to my hinges. Much easier to leave it as it is and plug the hole and only fit the grease nipple as you want to grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rekab69 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Errr.. Couldn't some piky scum undo the bolts and nick your doors, or the whole Landie...? db. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 True, but the same is true of the standard setup anyway. If the thief can get the four hinge-to-bulkhead screws out then it's doors away Might look into drilling the inside of some hinges and tapping for a grease nipple. Hole could easily be filled with a grub screw or very small cap-headed setscrew, and it's out of site that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Errr..Couldn't some piky scum undo the bolts and nick your doors, or the whole Landie...?db. On my 90 it would be easier for them to undo the canvas... so no worries about hinges for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Errr.. Couldn't some piky scum undo the bolts and nick your doors, or the whole Landie...? db. you can use dome headed cap head screws with a ball bearing bearing hammered into the hexagon instead of the standard hex heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmerboy_y2k Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 top job, about what i got mine for, just need a nice sunny dry day to fit them now I bought a set of 3 for the rear door at peterborough show last year, fitted in an hour - with lots of chatting and tea drinking. I can still shut the door with one finger with the spare on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Good job, Rusty You'll also be able to remove the doors without losing the door set by removing the pivot bolts and that nearly as big a bonus as salvaging the old hinges Mo Thats a good point. spent hours trying to sort my doors once off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Depending on what tools you have available you could drill a small hole down the centre of the bolt from the threaded end to just past the middle, then another small hole across the bolt to meet it. If you were then to chop some more of the threaded bolt off you could add an 8mm threaded nipple in from the bottom of the hinge and avoid having the nipple on the side and having to grind the clearance groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave18 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Hey peeps Just carried out this mod last week and WOW, the Hinges on my LR90 were shot big style, Got a set of hinges of fleabay and they turned out to be Brit Parts and felt as if they had almost as much slop as my current ones so was glad i was doing the mod, Any hows i punched out the pins then drilled out the door hinge NO PROBLEM, To get everything aligned i pushed the spline end of the hinge pin back in the top of the body hinge and put it in my pillar drill so i could get the vice to align easier, then drilled out the top part, This is where i came across the only problem of the whole operation. the two holes are not inline. once drilled all four hinges showed that the top hinge hole is offset by about 2mm to the lower hinge hole. To get round this i did not cut my new bolts to length. Instead i ground the bolts to a round point, what this did was when i assembled the hinge it alloud me to use a hex wrench and gently tap it with a hammer and that pushed the bolt into the thread, Once it was started it was all ok. So really good mod and now i have no door related problems and some nice hinges. Just thought i would let you know what i found encase its not a Brit part design and just a general design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratmanrover Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Nice ideal that. Also I guess stops the mark down the door/ bulkhead where oil has been used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 That's a great idea! I'd like to do this to my old Series 3 hinges as the new ones I bought have more play than some of the old ones! So I'm sending those back... Is it possible for you to reload the pictures as the links in the original post are broken. Thanks, Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Sorry I dont have the pics on my PC, I'll have to take some new ones but the hinges are on my 110 in pretty much the same state as pics above-they're still working well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edessex Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Great idea! The hinges on my other half's 110 are badly worn, so I've got to sort them out soon, may well give this a try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Maybe I'm just a muppet but I failed on this one. I couldn't quite get the 2 holes in the bulkhead part to line up exactly despite using a pillar drill and drill press and if the hole through the other part is just a smidgen oversize you're back at square one. The idea's great, it's just not quite that easy as everything has to be in a perfect line and to exact size. Gave up and bought a new set of o.e. ones from a site that had them for about £20 - job done. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Maybe I'm just a muppet but I failed on this one. I couldn't quite get the 2 holes in the bulkhead part to line up exactly despite using a pillar drill and drill press and if the hole through the other part is just a smidgen oversize you're back at square one. The idea's great, it's just not quite that easy as everything has to be in a perfect line and to exact size. Gave up and bought a new set of o.e. ones from a site that had them for about £20 - job done. Malcolm Please could you provide the link to that site. I have some friends coming to South Africa from London so I may be able to organise some. Were you happy with the quality? Either way I'll still attempt the fix on the old hinges first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 http://www.rjlandrovers.co.uk/ These guys sell the pukka take-off hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Yep that's the one's. They're genuine original and I'm perfectly happy with them - no slop unlike some others! Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Sorry I dont have the pics on my PC, I'll have to take some new ones but the hinges are on my 110 in pretty much the same state as pics above-they're still working well! Any luck with getting those pics. I'd still like to give this a try. Thanks, Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 Maybe I'm just a muppet but I failed on this one. I couldn't quite get the 2 holes in the bulkhead part to line up exactly despite using a pillar drill and drill press and if the hole through the other part is just a smidgen oversize you're back at square one. The idea's great, it's just not quite that easy as everything has to be in a perfect line and to exact size. Gave up and bought a new set of o.e. ones from a site that had them for about £20 - job done. Malcolm I just did them with a battery drill and each half stuck in a vice-they were worn out so it was worth tinkering with them before they went in the bin, they turned out well enough to put back on and use since. I did run a countersinking bit into the top of the bulkhead half just to help the drill bit centre itself, I might have drilled progressively bigger holes-I cant remember, but it was easy enough to do. The door hinges are actually quite complex angular items-I drew one up in autocad for machining some up but with a spherical bearing as the rotating member; http://www.medwaypt.co.uk/MPT_Spherical.pdf but it was getting quite expensive so never went any further. i'l hopefully take some more pics tomoz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 i'l hopefully take some more pics tomoz. Any luck with getting those pics? Thanks, Jase Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I can't find one in the right size but if you don't like the grease nipple on the hinge what about using something like this: http://www.lrsoffroa...-greasable-bolt Anybody know where you can get them in the right size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Well just like RNP, I had a knackered door hinge that I thought I'd experiment with prior to binning it. Since the original photos have disappeared from this post I've taken plenty In principle I have done just the same, but looked at the greasing slightly differently. The socket head cap screws I bought were M8 x 80 long 12.9 grade, so unlikely to wear any time soon. I drilled the holes out, taping the lower part M8, then drilling the middle and top to Ø7.9. In reality the centre part was worn so oval that it only just cleaned up. The original hinge pin I drifted out was not worn much at all, and I suspect future wear will again manifest itself in this hole, thus limiting further rebuild options, but this should last quite a while I hope. I also had a lot of vertical slack to take up, just over 1mm it turned out after I filed the surfaces to tidy them up. I turned up some plastic washers from black Acetal, O.D.14.0 and I.D.8.0, and 1.0 thick. Screw with 10mm chopped off its length and the plastic washer My take on lubrication was inspired by the grease gun used for sprocket tip chain saw bars. There is a 3mm hole each side of the bar, and you use a pointy nosed grease gun. I drilled the back of the hinge Ø3mm to break into the hinge pin hole. This location should be quite well shielded from the elements, and the jet wash. A mistake I learned here. I should have drilled the hole perpendicular to the surface. The oval hole doesn't seal at all well on the grease gun tip. I now know for the next one. The top of the hinge is not flat, so needed filing down so the cap screw sits against a level surface. This picture shows a little more filing needed. The almost finished assembly. When assembled, there is insufficient clearance to squirt grease in. I think either a wee bit more clearance is required, or maybe some small flats on the screw diameter. I shall experiment further... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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