royaub Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi all I have a 1995 110 defender and I'm trying to replace the drop arm ball joint. I managed to get the top collar out but I can't get the new one in. I've tried hitting it with a socket and hammer, I've tried a large G-clamp which some have suggested I even tried to get the drop arm off but it won't come off. I've tried all that I can think of and have come to a standstill. I'm now at the end of my tether, any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Its a bit of an art. I usually usea 3/8" socket extension and press it all home with a jack, remembering to put the circlip over the extension before jacking. The position of the applied force can be critical to success. Good Luck and watch your fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Hi all I have a 1995 110 defender and I'm trying to replace the drop arm ball joint. I managed to get the top collar out but I can't get the new one in. I've tried hitting it with a socket and hammer, I've tried a large G-clamp which some have suggested I even tried to get the drop arm off but it won't come off. I've tried all that I can think of and have come to a standstill. I'm now at the end of my tether, any suggestions? I had the reverse problem, I couldn't get the old seat out. I had to get the drop arm off. It required a bit of heat and a puller and hammer of the large type and variety with a drift, they can be a bit of a PITA. Liberal application of heat, puller on with some load on it and then hammer and drift from under the wing was how I got mine off. Have you got any way of applying heat to the drop arm? Once off it's a fairly simple task with an engineers vice and socket. Have you cleaned the drop arm out with a bit of wet and dry or emery cloth? A coat of grease wouldn't go amiss either. Are you sure the new seat is in straight? If it isn't it'll be a bit of a beggar to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaub Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 I can't get the drop arm off because I can't get in to hit it with a hammer. There's no room so I'm going to have to do it in situ. The only thing I can think to do is to try and grind a little from the inside of the housing. I think it has gone in cock-eyed and has made a lip inside the housing which is stopping it from going fully in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I made myself a puller especially for the job. It need to be quite hefty, mine is crude but effective. Pictures when I get home. I used a big cap head screw in the centre so I could wind it up nice'n'tight then give it a good wallop with a stout persuader. I find access below the steering box can be improved if you jack the chassis up just enough to drop the axle/panhard rod away from the steering box. It's worked every time for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Have you tried putting the new part in the freezer?? Should make it shrink slightly and therefore fit in the hole a bit easier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 This might help http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10088 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Take the drop arm off, throw it away and replace it with a Discovery / RRC one and use TRE's for evermore.... ..... not helping am I....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I have just done the same job last Friday, the way i got rhe seat in place was with a socket and threaded rod, i drew the seat in useing the socket on the bottom with a bar across the top and two nuts , then I tightened one nut drawing the seat fully home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 BishBosh-I agree mate! best thing I did to mine many moons ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaub Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Hi all jobe done thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Take the drop arm off, throw it away and replace it with a Discovery / RRC one and use TRE's for evermore.... my current project - just waiting for the new drag link to arrive, and then tap tap tap with my fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tris Cocks Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 To get mine back in u used a drift that was suitable size to allow the circlip to slide over it and then using a trolley jack, pushed it in. Sounds easy in practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 quick slightly off topic question about this, instead of fitting a new ball joint - or fitting one from a disco to use TRE... is there any longer drop arms out there that would fit. Reason i'm thinking is that a longer drop arm would give faster steering and negate the need for one of them expensive quick-lock box things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 No idea, but it would also give heavier steering....something to bear in mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petethepilot Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 The Drop arm of my 110 was so stuck that even with heat and the biggest puller they lend me from the LR Garage didn´t do it! They are using hydraulic pullers nowdays! Anyway, I had to cut it open with the angle grinder, just carefully on the opposite side of the arm, so that it didn´t do damage to the axle. Then I obviously had to install a new one...but with sufficient amount of ceramic brake paste, so that if (and when) the job has to be redone, IT WILL SURRENDER to me! Btw. Applying heat to the drop arm joint and putting that new seat into freezer makes a difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Gentle heat to the drop arm, or you'll bake the seals in the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Do be gentle with the drop arm when whacking it. Fatal abuse may lead to damaging the bearing on the upper swivel pin. Another dirty job. Secondly excessive bashing might lead to loosening the pas boxe's positioning. The problem was excessive play in the steering. An attempt to fix it let to wild flow of fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 The easiest way of removing the arm (without specialist tools) is to take the steering box off. You then stand the box on a block of wood with it's full weight balancing on the output shaft. You then hit the drop arm downwards with a big hammer as close to the shaft as you can. I've never failed to get one off using this method and it reduces/removes the risk of damage to the steering box providing it's resting on the output shaft. It normally only takes 1 or 2 decent blows with the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Always taken the steering box off the odd time I've tinkered with mine and pressed it off in the works 60t hydraulic press, dosnt half go with a bang at quite a high tonnage, wouldnt like to try one on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 I used Les Hensons method took 40mins start to finish. the upper ball joint race I put a socket on the race and with an extension jacked up the extension till the car started to lift then tapped the side of the drop arm with a hammer the race raised into place happily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.