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Air Bump stop or Hydro Bump stops

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Anyone looked at these for fitting to a LR Live beam axle ?

Any good links, ideas, views, prices,

Pros and Cons, just it seems a far superior option to a lump of rubber to

be whacked and give a little, set right it would seem that articulation

could be improved ?


Can you tell me front axle is off and undergoing mods and rebuild :lol: ?



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Such things exist:



I think, because of the shape, it would possibly be better mounted on the side of the chassis rail, with the pad on the axle moved or extended?

Otherwise the length of them would reduce suspension travel.

Edit: Something like this:


Would need some investigation as to the best 'rest' position and the resistance to travel...set by the pressure in the cylinder.

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I've wanted to go this route myself although I confess I've yet to come up with a way of fitting then to the front and that's why I've not fitted any despite them being on the "wishlist" since i saw them in use on RRCs in Oz in 2005. Having tried to follow a very similar vehicle with hydro bumpstops one particular hole put us in severe danger of leaving teeth marks in the dash where the bump stop equipped vehicle barely noticed it.

The rears are easy as you can drill a hole through the chassis and weld the mounting tubes into the chassis but this isn't practical on the drivers side front due to the steering getting in the way. The Australian solution on the front was to move the shock absorber(s) outside the springs and mount the bump stop inside the spring in place of the shock absorber. They rely on a single shock absorber though while I prefer having two cheap and cheerful shock absorbers rather than one expensive one.

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I would say that if you need hydraulic bump stops - your springs are too weak! Once your axle hits the bump stop, hydraulic, pneumatic or rubber - your suspension is basically doing nothing and you are loosing traction. IMHO they are the wrong solution to the proiblem.

However, fitting them is pretty easy. Put them inside the springs. On the front, use a Bearmach or similar twin shock mount to move the shock outside the spring.


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Devon 4x4 has just brought out a kit to fit hydro bump stops and King shocks with 12" travel, they also do shocks up to 18" travel for the same fitment in stock! You can have the bumps or the shocks separately if you wish and all as a bolt on package!


Or phone and ask 01769 550900


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I have been kind of looking into this

I am probably wrong but here's what i have under stood from a bit of reading (mainly pirate4x4 ;) )

air bumps can be a good thing as they progressively damp and defect the axle but they only work on the last 20% of travel.

You also cant really tune them like a say a bypass shock..

now if I had the money my ideal set up would be 2.0 coil-overs (with a two stage spring) and 2.5 bypass shocks.

bypassed shocks are great as the bypass bits allow shocks to be position-sensitive. So shock can be soft and compliant during initial travel, yet resistant to harsh bottoming during the last few inches ?

Now you can get internal bypass coil-overs but the down side is no external damping adjustment so that why you would use both shocks and coil-overs to get the ultimate setup, but at a cost :)

But as Simon points out if you are bottoming out with your current setup then your springs and shocks are too weak, your shocks should be able to stop the spring bottoming if stiff enough in compression, Which is why I am trying adjustable shocks (the same as you nige) its never going to be as good as the above setup but more with in my very limited budget :)


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First things first - nothing's cheap when you start looking at serious suspension. If you start doing a setup with bypass shocks and you can easily spend a couple of grand a corner. Then there's the time and testing needed to set it up properly. However, you will be able to carry HUGE speed cross country all day. But, this is pointless unless the rest of the car is set up for this. In the UK, a 2" coil over will be more than up to the job and, if set up properly, should get you 90% of the performance you'll get with bypass shocks for a much more palatable price and much less set up.

Si, the way I look at these is they are another component in the suspension system rather than just a bumpstop - they offer a higher spring rate for the top of the bump travel.

Moose and Dave, I think you're on the right track with mounting a hydro bump on a Land Rover. Jim Marsden has done it this way on his 100".... However, I would personally spend the money on a good quality shock. Something like a 2" / 2.5" Fox or SAW isn't that expensive (compared to 2x cheapish shocks) plus they are totally rebuildable, will take far more punishment and will offer much better performance. Also, you then solve all your packaging problems.... If you don't believe me on the price, have a look here:


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The Lightracing jounce shocks come highly recommended and if your hobby is dune jumping probably a very good upgrade. I will put them on a racer but for expedition or crawling probably not worth the cost.

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