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3.5 V8 Carb.'d System - Fuel Lines & Distributor Connections

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Hi I've hit the wall with a few problems I'm trying to sort out and wondered if anyone could poss. help?

I don't know how the fuel lines (feed & return) are connected/ setup to the carbs etc at all ?

Carb. Fuel Line Setup 02.jpg
I have three wire's coming from my distributor and I don't know what they need to be wired up to?

Electronic Distributor Connections.JPG
hope all of this makes some sense?
Could anyone poss. send me some detailed photos?
many thanks
Rich

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Fuel feed should be the left carb in the picture, return to the right hand connection I think. Not sure about the distributor, not without knowing the model at any rate, Is it electronic ignition or points do you know?

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Thats an old one ! Looks like an SD1 engine, but the distributor vacuum capsule looks even older !

Is this a converted points distributor ? Those wires look like Lumenition to me ! If it is, the wires go to a finned metal box

Show us whats under the distributor cap

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Hi thanks for the replies

FUEL LINE CONNCETIONS

Will need a bit more info to be honest?

If I run an in-line electric fuel pump would I put a filter before or after the pump? or one either side?

DISTRIBUTOR
Yes the engine is an SD1 3.5 V8 unit and the distributor is an electronic one, if that's of any help. Lumenition unit?? What would I need?

I do also have a points type distributor (see photos) would this one be any better to use?

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Put the inline filter before the pump.

It doesn't matter which carb you connect the feed to, on the original system the feed pipe was 5/16" outside diameter and the return pipe was 1/4" outside diameter. The fitting on the return pipe had a smaller hole to restrict the return flow, it's been a long time since I've seen one but it's probably around 1/16".

You could use a pressure regulator and not have a return, depends what sort of pump you're going to use?

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Lumenition units use a magnetic or optical sensor in place of the points, connected to an external amplifier box. Aldon also do a similar thingy, and Maplins sell a basic amplifier box (AKA a transistor triggered from the points) which takes the load off the points, extending their life & potentially giving better sparks.

Or you can wire in a standard RR electronic dizzy, optionally using a GM amplifier module, or go distributorless and fit Megasquirt or Megajolt for toppermost sparkyness and tuning.

jolt2.jpg

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The return has two restrictors, one at the carb end and one at the tank end. Which are the push-on pipe fitting drilled with a little hole, instead of the 4mm one you would expect. It returns fuel to the tank all the while to reduce vapour lock when the engine is very hot.

Does it work? I've messed mine around a lot and on two occasions we cable tied the return squished flat to stop flow. Then it works okay. So fitting a pump that doesn't do more than 5psi and throwing the return system is workable. HIF SU pressure is supposed to be 3.5 to 5psi I'm told by the carb rebuilder.

I can see what they were trying to do with vapour lock. We fixed it with a bonnet fan blowing down onto the carbs. It makes me think the return pipe isn't the full proper fix? Best advice I can give is stop the fuel line getting warmed up by the exhaust and things.

My mistake has been a 7psi Facet red top pump, and then trying to let return pressure out through a relief valve. I've totally failed the keep-it-simple test :)

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Hi All firstly thanks for your inputs and ideas, still need more if poss.

FUEL LINE CONNCETIONS

Paul mentioned that the original system feed and return lines were, Feed 5/16"(8mm) O.D. & Return pipe was 1/4"(6mm) O.D. which is totally the opposite to what I’ve previously been advised to do i.e. larger line, 8mm should be used for the return, so there is no back pressure? thoughts on this? What I do have is a RRC fuel tank and thinking of using an in-tank pump/sender unit ESR3926 to keep it tidy and put a pressure regulator inline also to set the feed to the carbs. With regards to the return I’m now unsure what’s best?

In Tank Combined Pump & Sender Type  - ESR3926P.jpgESR3926 unit Universal Car Adjustable 140PSI Fuel Pressure Regulator with Gauge.jpg adjustable pressure regulator

DISTRIBUTOR

Regards to the distributor issues all I’m looking for at the moment is the easiest and cheapest way to get it all working at the moment, then further down the line I can look to enhance the setup. I have seen this Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 & DLB198 Ignition Coil on feebay?

Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 & DLB198 Ignition Coil.jpg

ESR3926 UNIT PRESSURE REGULATOR IGNITION MODULE KIT

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That stuff looks suspiciously bling to me, I'd aim for a near enough standard setup to get yourself going, the more you alter the less sure you can be about things not working. That Lucas kit looks suspiciously similar, but nastier than, a stock Range Rover electronic dizzy & amplifier.

A later Range Rover electronic dizzy shouldn't cost much 2nd hand (try Martin Toole - Range Rover Recycled Parts on eBay, he's bound to have one).

Carb setups don't (if memory serves) have or usually need external pressure regulators.

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The best thing about carbs.....is removing them for efi !

I'll take some photo's tomorrow of my carb'd v8 (that i dislike with a passion) for you.

G

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Fridge is correct - no regulator on a carb setup. Piping goes Tank>pump>pass carb>drivers carb>return line>tank

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And 8mm in and 6mm OD out , it's a pressure relief bypass system as std . Chuck the points dizzy in and get it running , then improve as and

when you want to

mm old skool V8 make sure you have WD-40 for when the HT gets slightly moist :)..maybe , I've both versions ,std systems that will nearly go under water and others that will not fire up on a heavy dew in the morning

cheers

Steveb

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FUEL LINE SETUP

I was going to use the fuel pressure regulator as the in-tank fuel pump/sender unit is rated for the EFi units so it operates at a higher pressure than what I need to supply the carb.'s.

steve b regarding the "8mm in and 6mm OD out , it's a pressure relief bypass system as std"

By this do you mean by using an 8mm Feed & a 6mm Return this causes a pressure relief bypass system or is it a "bolt-on" item I need to get? if bolt-on would you know part no.?

What is a fuel trap (ERC2042) used for? (see photo)

Carb. Fuel trap Setup 01.jpg

DISTRIBUTOR

Please educate me what is a "Range Rover electronic dizzy"? is just another name used for the electronic distributor?? if YES what add-on's do I need too make my electronic distributor work?

Cheers

Rich

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If you have an in-tank EFI pump then replace it for a carb one? Job done then, and probably less than a pressure regulator.

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As above, if you have an in-tank pump, then swap it for a low pressure jobbie. Then it's fuel in, fuel return to tank, and then vent.

When I picked up my Landy the animal plumbed the electric pump up to supply fuel, then the returns and the vents were plumbed into each other. The engine must have run richer than an Arab oil shiekh.

Found this in my plethora of help pics.

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Dont use a regulator. Swap the pump for a low pressure in tank or in line one

As regards the distributor, you could use the points one to get you up and running, but they are very temperamental. Better to an electronic type which you already have in any case. Just need to work out which sort of system it is, so post up a photo of whats under the distributor cap ?

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no bolt in bits on the fuel lines iirc , but that's with the std facet pump which only makes about 6 -8 psi . Just disconnect the electric to the in tank pump and put a low pressure pump in the feed line .

cheers

Steveb

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The best thing about carbs.....is removing them for efi !

I'll take some photo's tomorrow of my carb'd v8 (that i dislike with a passion) for you.

G

Really show us your setup, you got my full attention.

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This is how mine is. Sorry, it's a stromberg setup, not SU. I have another set of SU carbs in the cupboard i can take a picture of tomorrow if you need.

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G

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Here's a shot of the SU's on my P6 - the setup is similar to Zim's Strombergs above - the principals are the same:

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OK Friends,

I've at long last managed to get a photo of the inside working of the distributor (electronic?)

I believe it is an electronic type of one, so what I really need now is to know what I

need to add to this distributor to get it to work. "I want to see some life in my Beast" PLEASE! :)

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That is indeed an optical trigger Lumenition set up . It mounts to the std points base and plugs into a small amplifier that

hooks up to the std coil terminals .

Just stick some points and condenser in to get 'er up and running . The main issue with the points set up is the plastic "nut plate" under the baseplate

that the gap adjuster screw fits into becomes loose on the thread and the moves while its running

cheers

Steveb

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Either fit original points as above.
Or fit one of these.

http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/early-sd1-p5-p6-rover-3500-electronic-ignition-kit

Or contact these and ask them about the parts you're missing?

AUTOCAR ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT Co. Ltd.
49/51 Tiverton Street, London SE1 6NZ
United Kingdom
Tel: 0044 (0)20 7403 4334
Fax: 0044 (0)20 7378 1270

email: sales@autocar-electrical.com
support: support@autocar-electrical.com

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You could just buy a later distributor with the ignition amp on the side from any old Range Rover or Disco. I can't imagine they're expensive 2nd hand unless Nige has cornered the market and chopped all their heads off already!

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