Souster Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Hi all Need your opinions please on the engine condition please.... Finally got my hands on a 300tdi, it's actually still in a discovery 1 MOT fail. It's done 150k miles. Now the engine sounds sweet as a nut, starts on the button from cold with no blue smoke on startup, Just a small black puff. When cold there is zeropuffing/breathing/steam out the filler cap or dipstick, a very slight bit of steam when warm out the filler cap. Only a fraction really that can be seen with a torch in the dark. Is that a sign of wear? The engine pulls like a train, and thedifference is black and white compared to the engine it's replacing in my defender. I managed to get some compressionreadings when warm. Cylinder 1: 380 Cylinder 2: 380 Cylinder 3: 390 Do these sound good to you guys? Now unfortunately, I stripped the glow plug hole on cylinder 4. I managed to getthe glow plug back in and not losing any compression on tick over. What are my options here? So my question is, it seems to good to strip down and rebuild, when it's running so well. What would you guys do? Obviously the engine has got to come out. Would you rebuild it? Or Just put acambelt, clutch and crank seal? Orsomething else? It also doesn't leak. Thanks in advance guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 head off & have the glowplug hole thread repaired with a helicoil thread insert. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I would happily fit that with just the bits you mentioned replaced. Only proper option is to fit a helicoil the affected thread or replace the head entirely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 10 minutes ago, western said: head off & have the glowplug hole thread repaired with a helicoil thread insert. Looks like it will be a project after all then ay Ralph. Cheers mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 9 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said: I would happily fit that with just the bits you mentioned replaced. Only proper option is to fit a helicoil the affected thread or replace the head entirely. Thanks Vulcan. It sounds like a healthy engine to you to then? I mean the oil is filthy, with a good service and a good run I think it would feel even better. Save myself the work and just do the neccessary bits then? (Clutch, cambelt, and it's looking like head gasket unless I can plug the glow plug hole to prevent swarf) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 9 hours ago, Souster said: and it's looking like head gasket unless I can plug the glow plug hole to prevent swarf) You won't realistically, even 1 bit of swarf dropped in will end badly. head off as the guys say drill/tap and insert helicoil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangover Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Aluminium swarf is not a show stopper, it would melt pretty quick . You could use compressed air in the inlet manifold to prevent it from falling in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Swarf, whether it melts or not, will go through the exhaust valve and the turbine, causing damage to both, if not sticking to them and causing a leaky valve or an unbalanced turbine. If you are doing anything that creates loose debris and opens into the cylinders, the head should be removed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Thanks chaps. Looks like the head is coming off then. Anything else I should do while I'm in there and the engine is removed? Wanting this engine to be very reliable and very strong. So all suggestions welcomed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Reseat the valves and new stem seals if you so wish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 On 2016-10-04 at 2:24 PM, Souster said: It also doesn't leak. Best look for a half decent Land Rover engine. This is obviously a fake! Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 If it's out then then go round it with a fine tooth comb Core plugs - don't just check, replace Gaskets on ancillaries Head off to sort the stripped thread - fit an Elford head gasket, bought direct form the factory Valve stem seals Front and rear crank seals Front and cam seal Oil separator - replace Cam belt and followers In fact everything - none of it is expensive, none of it difficult, but then it's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 On Thursday, October 06, 2016 at 11:29 AM, honitonhobbit said: If it's out then then go round it with a fine tooth comb Core plugs - don't just check, replace Gaskets on ancillaries Head off to sort the stripped thread - fit an Elford head gasket, bought direct form the factory Valve stem seals Front and rear crank seals Front and cam seal Oil separator - replace Cam belt and followers In fact everything - none of it is expensive, none of it difficult, but then it's done Thanks for the reply. Regarding the stem seals, how does it work regarding disturbing the valves? Obviously I keep the valves in order, but will they seat and seal as well after they've been removed? As you can tell, even though I want to do a good job and have it running perfectly, I'm very cautious to mess with something running so well. In one sense, if it ain't broke don't fix it haha. But on the other hand, don't want to be a month down the line and have blue smoke on start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Valves rotate as they move up and down due to the helical spring, so there is no reason that removing and refitting them should change anything. But, lapping them with some grinding paste if you're not going to have them reseated by an engineering workshop would be a good idea. You'll need a spring compressor to remove the collets for seal replacement, and with the seals off, check for valve stemn and guide tube wear (rocking movement). Honing the bores is wise if the head is off, and to do that properly, you need to remove the pistons, so check the crank shaft journals and consider replacing the big end and main bearings even if they still have white metal on them. Check the piston rings, as honed bores with knackered rings are still going to use oil and lose compression. It's also worth opening up the oil pump to check for scoring inside the casing and the condition of the idler gear bush and shaft. Check its pressure relief valve for scoring and freedom of operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 FWIW At that age I'd do the head gasket anyway so dont bother trying to do the helicoil in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thanks for your help chaps. Removed the cylinder head over the weekend, and was pleasantly surprised (for a change with a land rovery aha) with what it revealed. There was no blowing of the head gasket at all, the gasket still had the land rover badge on so could this be the original? And all the bores looked near perfect (from what my little knowledge tells me), all honing marks were consistent and no up and down marks in the bore. No ridges in the bore either, other than 5mm of carbon around the top, which when removed doesn't leave any ridges. The head looks good too, no cracking or blowing of any kind. Virtually no corrosion or pitting where the water galleries are. So I'm guessing regular anti freeze changes? Now, the main reason for this post... I've bought a new set of glow plugs, and you wouldn't believe it, I've actually managed to torque all 4 glow plugs up to spec. Therefor, the one hole with the not so good thread has tightened down fine. Do I leave it be, or get it helicoiled still? Any input welcome. Thank's again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 You could just keep an eye on it. If it works loose then the head will have to come off again. Getting a helicoil insert fitted isn't that expensive. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 How gutted would you be if you fitted it all up and started running her then the dodgy glow plug thread decided to give way... a lot of extra effort for a corner cut now if you ask me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 It depends on how bad the thread was. Pictures would tell us a lot more, but even they can be deceptive. If 75% or more of the thread was intact, I'd expect it to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 Hi chaps. Took the sump off this afternoon, as it needed re-sealing anyway. While I was in there I decided to remove the big end caps, and inspect the shells. To my untrained eye I think they look pretty good, however I'm no expert. So I'd appreciate the opinions of you experts please. Should I replace these shells? And while the sump is off, is there anything else I should do? I then took No.3 mains cap off, a inspected the bottom shell, which I believe is the one that wears the most. Any input very welcome. Thanks alot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Very little wear in all of them. Now you have them out though..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: Very little wear in all of them. Now you have them out though..... Thanks Bowie that's good to hear. Original shells are sitting on the bench at the moment, as you say seems daft to refit. Should I just buy brand new standard shells then, big ends or mains as well? Are king bearings a good make for shells? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Check the back of the existing shells for size, just in case they're non standard, but with that condition, you won't need a crank regrind. The shells are good enough to go back in, but as the others said, if you don't mind spending on a new set, then new would be better still. I'd say the big end shells are in better condition than the main bearing you removed, so if you only do one set, do the mains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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