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Romahomepete

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Everything posted by Romahomepete

  1. I bought new LED batten fittingings for my garage from a an electrical wholesaler in Bolton, it was cheaper than buying new tubes. Peter
  2. Remember that this is a series land rover and the original factory tolerences were quite big. If you decide to try to move the bulkhead to a more verical position remember to loosen the bolts that hold the steeringbox bracket to the chassis. I can get one side of mine spot on but the other side is a bit out even after faffing for hours, I just live with it. Most folk dont notice. Peter
  3. If you read the small print for the RAC badged one on Amazon it is only for petrol engines smaller than 1500cc, not alot of use to us. Peter
  4. As above, they need to be familiar with their own rules, it is a classic so doesnt need anything from a garage or engineer. Peter
  5. Stephen, I am planning on fitting a second battery in a box in my tub. I will be using anderson connectors but I will also be using a s[plit charge relay as per caravan and motorhome leisure batteries. They are very easy to wire up and really it is a case of fit and forget, no need to think about switches etc. I have done it enough times in camper to know that it is straightforward, just make sure the feed wires for charging are of the correct specification. (When motorcaravan converters do it they fit the smallest they can get awawy with.) Remember if your leisure battery is flat then your alternator could be pushing 50 amps in that direction and you need some redundancy. The current split charge relay in our camper is rated at 90 amp. The battery is 125 amphour and it runs our Eberspacher hot air/hot water heater with no problem but I have upped the supply cable to that too. The battery I amp putting in the land rover will not be as big as that, it is just for lights and usb charging when camping. Peter
  6. Go to the series 2 club forum, there are some colour coded wiring diagrams there, they are very accurate, there may not be a S£ one there but the S2a with alternater one will use the same colour codes. Peter
  7. I too would replace rather than overhaul. MG hive sell a 1 to 1.9 servo that works well on land rovers, they are on ebay. I would also move it, being fried by the exhaust cant do it any good. They fit well on top of the footwell on either side. Mine is next to the matser cylinders but I have to take the wing off if there is a problem. (My wings can be off in 10 minutes). Peter
  8. 2 long studs in the flywheel housing often helps Peter
  9. Dont mix S2 and S3 hinges on the same door. The pivots are not in the same plane. Peter
  10. Yes but the S2 hinges are better if you look after them and change the balls before they wear out. They are only very cheap. Peter
  11. I made an inside bracket, it bolts to the capping Photo taken with the roof off from outside, there is one boly through an existing hole on top of the capping and 2 through the face Peter
  12. I am getting old and feeble so a bonnet mounted wheel is a no no. It is in the tub at the moment but I am looking to build a rear mount bracket that picks up on the tow bracket bolts but inges in line with the talgate so that it could be lowered to open the tailgate or some kind of side hinged arrangement. Peter
  13. Series 2 or Series 3 hinges and did it do it before? Peter
  14. The skins on new doors is always going to be softer than teh original a"birmabright" is no longer available. Peter
  15. Probably safer to heat the bolt. The heat will transfer to the caliper and they will exapnd at different rates. Apply your favourite penetrating oil (not WD40) as it cools down. Peter
  16. If you are going to galvanize a bulkhead or front panel make sure the are rigidly fixed to a vesy sturdy supporting frame otherwise they can twist in the process. My bulkhead is 62 years old, has had new pillars and footwells and a tinyholde repaired below the windscreen and the front panel has a new lower section. I think they will see me out without galvanising Peter
  17. I think you are best starting from the other end. If you want to import and register it for road use in France you need to find out what their requirements are. They may not like the idea of importing a non standard vehicle. As far as building a vehicle anything is possible but whether you can get it through the French requirements is different. On the S2 forum (and on here) there are members with land rovers who are french or are english and live in France. Seek their advice. Peter
  18. part of most pre second world war mechanics tool kits included a device for separating leafs on springs to allow lubrication. It was basically a G clamp with the pad on the end of the screw missing and the end of the screw being pointed. Peter
  19. You could always do it manually and use a monodex sheet metal cutter, that is how they used to cut van sides to put windows in or the moderne air driven equivalent nibles tool Peter
  20. We had the S2 club AGM at Land Rover Reborn last year and we were given a very quick tour, there were racks of S1s waiting for "restoration" but they seemed to be on hold because they were working on very late model defenders which they had bought in to upgrade and improve to make "like new". The sale price was eyewatering, you could buy a house for less. Peter
  21. You would get a much better prodfuct from Robert Owen who makes S2 and S3 bulkheads Peter
  22. It will not be a manufacturing defect. My dad worked for C and J Hampton and Co makers of record tools and their successors from 1946 to 1983. he was a tool setter on vices for part of that time. they did not sell seconds. they were all scrapped. Workers were allowed to dismantle scrap items and build good ones for their own use, sold at a peppercorn price but inspected before they left the factory. They valued their reutation. Peter
  23. I think perhaps you should also check other jobs that he might have done. Such scant regard for safety is scary. Peter
  24. Not helpful in this situation but whenever we get a vehicle new to us one of the first jobs is to slacken all the wheelnuts/bolts and retighten to the correct torque then test the supplied wheelbrace to make sure I can remove at the side of the road. It just makes life so much easier. Peter
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