mike4444244

Hi Cut the old track off carefully with a grinder, if you cut it in a spiral shape till its most of the way through you should be able to split it with a chisel, then it will come off ok. Mike

Hi When I lifted mine i cut the flexi hose mounts off and welded them on lower, this means I can use standard hoses, but then I don't use mine in Extreme offroading, more overland type things.... Llama4x4 is the place for longer hoses! Mike

sorry just checked I have 2006 not 2007 D'Oh! Mikw

I use autoroute 2007 aswell, I find the turn by turn is rubbish and if you miss the waypoint by more than 3cm it insists on trying to direct you back to it, but apart from that its great, especially detailed for POI and it covers W europe in reasonable detail... and the night map mode makes you feel like a fighter pilot Mike

How HT do you want? if its 8.8 then all the screwfix stuff is that grade, They don't do anything higher except a few sizes of socket cap which are 12.9, never had a problem with any of it, I use Namrick for Imperial stuff, and my local place in Liverpool for anything weird... Mike

Hi Buildwas and Farley are close ish to you, buildwas is a nice site that can get stupidly muddy and farley is a rocky quarry with a big lake both are close to each other between little wenlock and much wenlock in shrops. Mike

Best of Luck! Mike

steel is cheap, I got a new wire for my husky for £20 delivered off ebay (David Bowyers Site) Would suggest you get some training though Mike

Sounds like turbo oil seals, I'd get it sorted out asap if I was you as like mentioned above it will race to destruction unless you can stall it or shove your t shirt down the air inlet! Mike

I'm not entirely sure it is legal (see SVA manual) but in any case modern cars have crumple zones, series dont, I think if I had to I'd probably rather total a volvo at 70 than a series at 40... while you're building in the mounts why not just make them at least level with your shoulder then theres no problem? Just my 2p, Mike

Theres a reason why the porch at my parents house is slightly out of alignment with the rest of it, I think I'll blame it on reverse light malfunction too

spend away its not my money its Nic's....

I used to work in a climbing shop (a proper one not millets!) and with the MSR bumpf that they sent with the rep the had photos of one of their tents being tested with a fire engine, they blasted it at high pressure from about 30ft away and when they stopped it was fine and bone dry inside , its good stuff! terra nova are also good but you get what you pay for... Mike

Cheers guys, I thnik i'll save some money and wait for the v8, plus pete will be happier if I change the wiring afetr he's finished it

IIRC the guides should be reamed after installation to the correct isize for the valves

Hi Mark, I have only heard the value without the seal, surely you can just pull the seal, if its flopping about/death wobbling that much then it sound like you'd be better off stripping it and checking it properly? Mike

Hmmm think I have a mental picture of what you're doing, will look forward to the write up if/when you get round to it as I want to extend the space in mine... Mike

Mike if your binning the old box anyway I'd be tempted to cut it out in sections, unless you want to keep it as a template for making the new one? If it was me I'd take the whole seatbox out and do it on the bench but you probably have far more things bolted or wired to yours a reciprocating saw would probably be my weapon of choice for removing it in situ though... how much lower will the box hang? what are you making it out of? Thats another of my vapour projects... Mike

I got my adaptor from vwp for about a fiver i think, the main dealer was about £28 + vat for the banjo fitting!!!! in fact here it is adaptors Mike

Have you got 12V at the terminals when ignition is on and its in reverse? If not then check the fuse, and that reverse switch is working, you may just have 2 duff bulbs... Mike

As mike said its really very easy to remove the box, actually its a good opportunity while its off to get some paint/waxoyl onto that bit of chassis, Mike

Sounds about right, also check the engine-ecu loom as IIRC theres an issue with oil leaking down it? Also check every switch/control works, UJs are free from play, wheel bearings, swivels, get under it with a small hammer, torch and small mirror and give the chassis a very good going over, especially the rear x member. Lift the mats in the front and check the footwells. feel the engine and make sure its cold before you start it. Don't be too worried about body condition/straigtness, they come out of the factory a bit misaligned sometimes! On your test drive its worth finding a car park/quiet road and doing the following, 30mph 4th gear accelerate hard, if the clutch is going to slip it will doing this! drive round on full lock L and R and listen for CV noises Emergency stop from at least 30mph, make sure it pulls up quickly and straight, if ABS make sure it dosent lock up. try it in low range and make sure difflock engages/disengages ok make sure parking brake works by trying to drive off with it on, be careful not to damage the brake. Sure someone will be along with a more comprehensive list but thats all I can think of at the mo! Mike

Hi stick your head in the wheelarch and look towards the bulkhead, you will probably need to remove the arches, if so, get some more plastic rivet things as you will never take them alive, the middle 2 bolts just need loosening as the wing is slotted to slide over them. Mike

you should use dot4 brake/clutch fluid, theoretically it should be changed every couple of years I think as its hygroscopic, in practice I'm not sure how many people ever bother, mine gets replaced on a rolling schedule as its changed whenever I end up working on the brakes and bleeding them, Mike