missingsid

Hi Pete, You have asked a good question as I too am concerned about the same problem. I understand the SVA issues well enough but as I still want to keep to a V8 and the new Tax bracket is a concern. My running gear has been used off road for so long I do not have any details on the donor and I am concerned about my lack of proof of the parts source. I hope that smeone can answer your Tax class question? Marc.

Lucky the tree was there to stop it rolling down the hill!

Thanks Nige, Actually this is really helpful I have bought some parts for my vapour build and I need some of this to stop them corroding untill such time as it stops being vapour? Marc.

Not quite true to be pedantic since you are? Mine is also an 86", no seat belts were fitted at manufacture nor were they and still aren't, required. The statement if they are fitted also applies to the Driver and Front Passenger in a vehicle first registered before the date the law was introduced. The seat belt law is not retrospective unless you fit them post ergistration. Marc.

Blimey Cheers, for the correction

Hi this from instructions: ADVANCE ADJUSTMENT KNOB/DIAL This knob/dial is situated at the rear of the instrument. It enables the ignition timing of the engine to be measured anywhere in the range 0° to 60° Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) over the full speed range of the engine, while using only at Top Dead Centre (TDC) mark. If any other timing mark is being used, then the total ignition timing is the timing shown on the dial PLUS the BTDC timing of the mark being used. (see later for more details on the use of this feature). Note that the area below 0° is dead space and is equal to 0°. G4133_Instructions.pdf Marc.

My Tuppenanth. When I spoke to the Police at a Traffic centre I asked to see a copy of the Construction and Use Act etc. I was told that they have no idea about it but if I want to know if I can do something to look in hte past case file as they rely on pressidents set by cases they win or loose. This serves 2 points: 1 it got rid of me as it was a bloody big book with no index for what I wanted. 2 they will only procecute stuff they can win. Marc.

Good tool, but use with caution,if it rubs against another wire in a long loom it will cut through it like saw. The longer the loom run the more likely it will cut/burn throught the adjacent wires cuasing more harm than good. Sorry for the down words. Marc.

WoW I tried to keep off my favourite venom topic but it ended up there anyway I argued with a Pious Salesman this year at a green day at work waste of time of course Marc.

Corrected though it was not available as a single timer chip the replacement has 2 timers so it was a 556. All I could remeber was lots of the same number. Cheers, Marc.

I guess you should be OK if you fit good sealing stips? My S1 has thisroute for the exhaust with a S/T and I can't rollup the back now due to fumes. Even with a H/T the eddy currents will keep the fumes around the rear door at motorway speeds. If you have the front door windows open the air gets sucked out of the front door and it tries to suck the replacement air in through the rear. Any gaps around the rear will draw in the fumes as they are not being left behind but are drawn along with you. A good show of this was when I blew the Transfer Box on my Hydred H/T the rear was completely covered in the oil from the box. Hope this drivel helps some Have fun. Marc.

What Ian is I believe saying is that if you fit a 24 spline Sun gear in toto a 2 pin Dif (not the housing) then the hole in the Diff carrier/body is not big enough for the 24 spline halfshaft to pass through. KAM showed me a Sun gear made for this purpose but we did not discuss this issue so I do not know if it is a problem. However as Ian is one of the most experienced people in this area I would be interested in a reply from Kevin at KAM. Marc.

As an ex Electronics Lab Technician I built my own circuit for my LR. It has 1 Chip 777 timer, 1 Relay 1 on off switch and 1 Potentiometer to change the delay. All it does is starts the motor to drive it off the home position and the homing circuit does the rest. It has beem working for 20 years without fail! No you are not being dim. Marc.

Hi Ian, I am only offering what I was told by Kevin, I may have missed some information, but the intention was to offer an option to suggest that if Les wanted to go that way then he could talk to KAM. I must admit that I have not tried as I have a 4 Pin. PS. Nice to see you on here Ian as you have given me very good information and help in the distant past. Marc.

As title, I passed a vehicle on the M25 today with the company name Renewable Energy xxxxxxxxxxx xxx. Why was this an inappropriate vehicle? It was on the side of a 110 Defender V8 Has anyone else seen what appears to be a dodgy choice? Marc.

Les, The answers above have looked at 4 pin diffs, to complete your questions. KAM sell replacement 24 spline Sun gears for 2 pin diffs as well as a whole range of 24 spline 4 pin diffs. Not an advert it's just that I got the works tour the other week Marc.

FF is correct though on road my RRC flywheel is a pain to change gear fast on road as it holds the revs up high but it will come to a halt on tickover in low box and pull away without dipping the clutch. Mine is Jag and no problems just need to redrill the flywheel if using a RRC one as it is larger. Marc.

Not had a problem with mine so far, machined wedges made of steel but only 2 deg to correct the sterring after longer shackles.

Diff nose goes down on the front, I had wdges made up for my Series 1 V8 but the prop gets very tight on the engine cross member. not sure what it is like on a 88" or bigger. Marc.

Les, That sounds like a perversion to me I quite fancied starting a business with LR work but there are too may independent garages around my way allready (one of them's a mate). Marc.

Les, Great thread and excellent pictures yet again. I use this method minus the wheels and I could change a front diff and get back racing with out losing too much time. The best time saver I learnt years ago was the use of the hammer to remove the TREs. At a trial my mate bent a drag link in the morning and was acout to give up for the day until I showed him how to get it off in double quick time. I like the ida of keeping the wheels on and using the brakes to stop the hub from spinning around and hitting you on the head! However I usually take the calipers off to safe guard the brake pipes so Im not sure of the best way. As said before its all a trade off what ever you decide to do. PS do you keep braking bits on a regular basis or are you in the trade and giving away secrets to help the members? Marc.

Biggest pain I've had is getting it back in. The input shaft not only has the splines to line up but the shaft its self has to be inline on two planes. The side to side plane is easy as you can look down the engine and align it with the chassis. I found the up down axis a problem as some engines are higher at the fron than at the rear (RR V8) and it is difficult to gauge. On idea is to use an engine tilter on the hoist, it won't help any if you need to tilt it to get it over the chassis but it will help maintain a constant angle whilst you push and wiggle

I have no information to back this up so it is just "colour" I guess. My mate (as allaways) refused to pay the cost of Synthetic oil when he took his Lexus V8 for a service. He asked the garagr to explain why it had to be Synthetic and not Mineral oil. The garage could not bring any argument and agreed to use Mineral oil and maintain the Warranty, and to lower the service charge accordingly! If it comes down to tight tollerances then I would suspect that a Lexus V8 is a bit closer made than a RR V8? Marc.

Went down to see Kevin yesterday. As I was not sure what items that I needed I explained to Kevin what it was I was trying to achieve. We spent half an hour using his knowledge and the parts bins to come up with a solution. Kevin then took me through teh workshop to show me the products they are working on. Having not really looked at the philosophy behind KAM I was pleased to see that kAM has created a series of products that offer a scaleable range that builds from low cost to high function. The other thing that I did not realise is that Kevin created the wobbly spline that Rakeway makes. It is really good to meet a supplier who really loves the stuff they make, I am pretty sure that this is the kind of experience that customers of Si and X-Eng have as well. I guess this is due to people who come up with ideas in Motorsport do it for the love of the sport. Cheers Kevin it was really good to work with asupplier who did not say something is impossible but who will take the time to explore the possible. Marc.

Great post Les (as usual). Really good clear photo's. The only thing I will add is that on mine the bolts were worn instead of the bush, this gave the same/similar symptoms. Whichever is worn it is worth checking the bolts anyway, if you don't repalce worn bolts then a new bush won't make any improvement as once the bush has stettled in the bolt will start to move around again. Marc