steve b

Did you do a test fit with plastigage to check the clearance? I guess you will know what its like when you run it up as you say cheers Steveb

........ever had one of those days? removed the old FIP which had enough end float to allow the toothed pulley to hit the front cover Dropped the 300 FIP in which came off a running engine albeit with a broken crank about 5 yrs ago and has been stored clean and dry since, timed it up and put it all back together , then fired it up............ .....it burst straight into life and then revved to full throttle rpm .......or maybe beyond in about 0.5sec before switching it off...... oh sweet joy , governor issues ? anyhoo found another pump locally off a 200 Disco , again " known good runner" so do it all again ..... ....this time I just timed it and fired it up with the front off , having by now a healthy suspicion of FIP's that are off the vehicle.... So this one starts and ticks over and then dies ... ...new lift pump 2 weeks ago , tank lines blown out , new fuel filter etc etc time for a cuppa and a fresh look tomorrow Steveb

Thanks VB , doing the change this morning for a mate . His old pump is shedding metal particles and losing pressure on the high pressure side , so he will be happy when it's done as it's a bit sluggish at the moment cheers Steveb

thanks for the replies, did you use the 200Tdi toothed belt wheel with the 300 FIP Mike ? or are they the same? cheers Steveb

Just after an answer on FIP interchangeability for Tdi's 1. does a Disco 200 FIP go onto a Defender 200? 2. does a Defender 300 FIP go onto a Defender 200? cheers Steveb

The last one I done I swapped over all the defender front and manifolds , not a complex job and keeps it all std and easy . If you get stuck or need a hand pm me , but I'm sure it will be ok. Doing the full swap just gives you a chance to fit new gaskets and copperslip all those nasty long bolts thru the waterpump cheers Steveb

Forkrentfitter/ Chris had a complete 200tdi for sale recently , £275 iirc? that's really bad luck , I hope you can get sorted edit to add heads are all the same cheers Steveb

Take the vac pump off , you won't feel anything vibe wise if it has failed . It will , however be obvious if it's broken when off. If that's ok then most likely big end . Pop the head off to check - it will be shown by the piston top marking the head cheers Steveb

It's highly unlikely you have damaged the injectors , they are capable of running in the heat of combustion after all I'd replace the big end shells as Bowie said . I would also glaze-bust the bores at that mileage and check the ring gaps on the new pistons before installing . Scholar Engineering are my local engine builders , or Holbay may be nearer for you for the big end shells and specs for ring gaps/torques etc hth Steveb

Yep , but a bloody good write up and diesel tech nevertheless.. cheers Steveb

There's an excellent thread on here by Lara on his own 2.8 conversion , I'm sure someone will provide a link to it The crank and con-rods were designed by another member of this forum iirc edit : had a quick look and the thread was started 01/03/10 and is called 2.8 TD5 build, enjoy cheers Steveb

I'd say that sounds fairly normal , I've seen the same doing long downhill runs off-throttle with various engines in LandRovers . They are all overcooled to cope with high ambient temps and low speeds ..what a trip too , keep us posted on here if you can cheers Steveb

What a lovely story Mike , Swallows are my favourite migratory bird thanks for posting Steveb

The steel inner mudguard is part of the structure of the wing - the aluminium is so thin and soft on 90/110 wings it will have no stiffness without it . They are all galv'd I thought but do rust from the lower edge sometimes cheers Steveb

pm sent with a couple of numbers , hopefully the independent will be able to help you cheers Steveb

No reply just yet , have you asked the campsite owners if they know of a LR specialist locally? cheers Steveb

will get in touch with a mate over there and see if there is anyone about that can help A 2 1/4 or 2.5 diesel starter is the same I believe be back in a bit cheers Steveb

Looks like you had a good weekend , got any more pics ? good to hear its all gone quiet cheers Steveb

could it be the flex plate sheared at the crank mount ? there is usually some noise though if this happens . Does it still lock in P ? cheers Steveb

Great work Mike , it's really coming together and the level of detail and planning is amazing , the two of you have obviously put a lot of thought and years of travel experience into this cheers Steveb

mmm very nice Nige I bet you are still grinning cheers Steveb

Like all projects , he will need to think about what he wants from it , what use it will be put to and where it will be garaged . there are plenty of good series II /III's about that are quite genuine , its all in the detail , like chassis number in place and the right axles and engine/gearbox for a good basis for a classic restoration . A Series I could be a better option as a full ground up build , they can be found for sensible money still and are truly the original and best cheers Steveb

fill with grease and in use don't put the power on when on lock , it'll be fine I'd say . And do check that VC if they lock up the cv's or axle diff are usually the first sign have a good drive and post up pics then get it checked out properly if you are not confident , but with good basic tools and axle stand(s) you can do it in a day cheers Steveb

iirc it's a grub screw that holds the selector lever to the shaft in the housing . Just take the block off and tighten the grub screw , not a big job just a bit fiddly with space. Some Threadlock glue could be used on the grubscrew if you want to cheers Steveb

Ah no drive , I'd agree with Dan . I expect the thrust has gone through the diaphragm fingers as they usually go as well when the straps go . Why are you having stop sol. issues ? veg oil related? cheers Steveb