miketomcat

Good progress Jeff. Mike

As far as I know the only difference is earlier 110 have the self leveler but that's part of the ball joint housing. Mike

The mud sheild is a good idea as they can come loose. The felt washer (#2) and a new nyloc are also worth it. I wouldn't bother with the circlip or spacer. Mike

I haven't got a tomcat any more but the names definitely staying. Are you ever going to do anything with the csk or is it just sat there. If you use it keep it, if it's sat there and unlikely to get touched sell it and use the proceeds to finish one or more of the others. Mike

Don't tell @FridgeFreezer you have that he gave up trying to find the correct angle and therefore a reamer. Mike

I'm working on the theory that once Munro have sorted their EV ibex, either Munro or foers are likely to offer a retro fit kit to fit mine. This will likely fit the 110 too. However this will only be when I have no choice as whilst I don't want to get rid of either viability will play a major role. Mike

Who are you. What have you done with fridge! Start talking like that you'll be liking diesels next. Personally putting an auto behind your engine seems a crying shame. Just sort the clutch. Gearbox if you need to. Mike

The single biggest issue is people in general have got lazy. How many actually walk anywhere let alone to work/school. I mean I opened a customer's car boot yesterday press a button and it opened for me seriously when did a gas strut become inadequate. More over if you ditched all the electrical lazyness from an electric car it would weigh half a ton less and go 50 mile further on a charge. Mike

I think yrm do a panel that just replaces the front of the wheel box not that it would be to hard to fold up. It's just riveted in place so I wouldn't bother with welding. Mike

Where exactly are you planning to take us...... If my passport ever turns up. Mike

Your welcome. Seriously though most people on here at least understand what manual work is and the practicalities of it even if they avoid it. @smallfry I would love to live near my work but I can't afford the £1m plus to buy any dwelling nearby. I'd struggle to buy a house near any boat yard as the rich bought all the waterfront property's years ago..... Mike

The trouble is the idiots that make the rules are either to rich to care, live in a city or have spent so much time working in an office they have no idea what real work is. Mike

I read one of the various posts on faceache in it they said the big trucks struggle to get to some of the areas that need help hence vans can be sent instead. Mike

There used to be re-pinning kits. I doubt it would be that difficult to re drill them and fit new pins and bushes probably need a lathe though. Mike

Just go to a screen fitter, a specially cut 6mm laminated screen for my ibex cost £120. You've only got to break one and it's no cheaper. They would of cut mine from a defender/other screen if it was big enough or if I needed the etching for IVA. Mike

@FridgeFreezer had an lt85 tunnel in his ambulance with an r380 gearbox. I made a new r380 tunnel for him. Mike

Ditto daan, without those two I would never of gone. Mike

I didn't check but I think the one I have is to big. However A, you need to take the rope out either way and B, it was clogged in there so tight I couldn't push anything through even though I'd only just taken the rope out. Mike

Winch rope, as some will recall the winch rope jammed in the tube at the last event. This isn't the end of the world as I can still use the winch out the back with a snatch block. I un-spliced the hook and winched it out the tube. Sure enough the tube was clagged up, interestingly only the rear 200mm or so. I tried poking proding to no avail. It's difficult to get to as the rear of the tube is in a pocket in the chassis leg with the pulley offset to the inside. At this point I realized that the rear cross member has a jacking tube roughly in line with the chassis leg. A quick look with a torch an sure enough I can see the pocket. So "if I make a long drill bit I can drill through the back of the pocket then run the drill down the tube as far as I can. The mk1 is a 10mm drill welded on to some 8mm stud bar I had kicking around. This worked well however it left only a 10-11mm hole through the obstruction. The mk2 is a 13mm drill, ideally I could do with going bigger still but I have got one here so this will do till the next time. A quicky rince through, put the line back through the tube and the hook re-spliced job done. Looking at what came out of the tube it was a mixture of mud and dyneema fibres so I suspect I'll be doing this from time to time. Mike

I've noticed mine runs considerably cooler since the engine swap. Whether that's due to the new radiator or the switch to blue antifreeze I don't know. Essentially the everything was like for like, 200tdi disco lump in the same configuration, the radiator is and Ali aftermarket item though a different make than previous and not leaking. So that only really leaves the antifreeze as technically different. I don't know maybe it's just coincidence. Mike

We need to replace the tyres on my trailer (2.5k miles is asking a bit much for the current ones). My passport needs to turn up. Then chat the boss up for time off work, I've already cleared it with the other boss . Mike

I could probably manage Jaffa cakes. Mike

I've had some slide straight on, some be an absolute pig no matter what you do, and one that simply wouldn't go on at all. The latter was due to the engine being a range rover classic retro fit TDI. So when I tried to put it on a TDI lt77 I wouldn't go, turns out the retro fit kit uses the V8 lt77 and a special spigot bush that has a smaller internal diameter to suit the V8 box. It will not go on a TDI box until you change it for the TDI spigot bush. Mike

It did occur to me when we spoke that I don't have your address. Having said that you've given me ideas now.... Mike

In the end I took it out completely. I bought a pair of female to female unions and joined the pipes this gave me a front circuit and a rear circuit. I had a low fluid cap already so loosing the fluid loss part of the PDWA wasn't a problem. Mike