miketomcat

I doubt it. You could pop the cover off and measure the backlash. You might be able to get a dial gauge on the pinion so you could nip it up then tighten till it starts to move but by that point your three parts the way to pulling it out and doing it properly. Mike

The issue you have is the prop flange nut holds the pinion tight against a crush tube. The tubes length is set by squashing it till the pinion and ring gear mesh correctly. You need to now bolt this all back up without squashing the tube any more (hence the need for marking and counting). If it was me I'd locktight the nut and nip it back up till just tight and hope I've not gone to far or to loose. Then all you can do is listen out for it being/getting noisy or coming loose. Mike

Wait hang on a minute, you can embroider as well as everything else you can do........ Mike

Just remember to double check it's a push fan not a pull fan, no running it with reversed polarity does not work (well it does but nowhere near as well). Mike

I suspect the spring mounts are a different shape to account for steering lock at full bump. Though this will be less of an issue with portals. Mike

Fit the x-eng tube and switch in the top hose? Or just use a manual switch. Our 110 has manual switch the ibex has automatic switch. Both work well just one requires driver input. Mike

I drilled and tapped the thermostat housing for my temperature switch. My fan comes on a bit earlier than it really needs to but I'd rather have early. Wiring is as you would spotlights, use the temp switch in place of main beam. You can add a manual/over ride switch but I didn't bother. I took the switch feed off ignition stage one so it can't flatten the battery but you may need to sit and wait while the temperature comes back down. Mike

I'm in Southampton though my lathe is old and not very accurate. @FridgeFreezer is in Basingstoke and has a lathe whether he has time is another matter. Mike

June might be a bit tight, but we're back there in September and we go out in the dark then. Just to add it's non competitive but very good for testing/practice. Mike

The PTO version is awesome. We have a 525 on the 110, I love it so much I bought a H14 to see if I could fit it to the ibex. Sadly it's to big so I had to sell it on. Mike

Hydraulic hose worked well to but requires the head or water pump off to fit. Mike

Doesn't have any signage as such, I wonder if it's privately owned. Mike

Your quite right my bad, it was early. Mike

Try a boat gear cable (Bowden cable) they can push and pull. Spring assist could also help. Both @simonr and @Stellaghost have played with pneumatic's for freespool and diff lock operations. Mike

I've fitted several windscreens and never had that problem. How is he trying to fit it? It looks like he's managed to stretch the rubber which shouldn't be possible with the string method. I've always soaped it all up put the rubber on the screen with string in the body slot of the rubber. Then lay the screen in place with the string ends inside, with gentle pressure on the outside pull the string ends (easier if you do one at a time but remember to hold or tie off the other one). Some times a spatular is needed to tease the rubber and a flat palm thump with extra soap can help a stubborn area. Once in, check the seal all round and a gentle thump all round to make sure it's seated. Mike

That needs some loving that's for sure. Mike

Drill out the melamine slightly bigger than the rivnut, set the rivnut in the steel. If you need the melamine clamping back as well put a rivet next to it. Mike

Assuming the injectors are inside the rocker box, if an injector seal has failed a large percentage of the oil mist will be diesel and you don't really want that in the sump. Mike

To much pedal travel is quite often a loose wheel bearing. This causes the disc to move pushing the pistons back. Mike

Cough. https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/83511-the-ebay-christ-i-fancy-that-4x4-its-cheap-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1033485

I've done two and things were a lot easier second time mainly down to having a mate help me. I let everything go on the Thurs and Fri evening. Chassis out everything swapped and back under over the weekend (mate helping). The following week evenings I bolted it all back down and replaced both C pillars and the front of the rear floor. Mike

You get enough looks A, taking logs into the tent and B, poking the chimney out the top. if you have the awning underneath you could run the chimney through......... Mike

The cover looks like its the idler/tensioner that's the problem. I had a timing chest fail on a discovery, it produced a tapping sound and wore a belt. The chest had cracked around the machined flat for the idler (idler and tensioner are separate on 200tdi discos), it just looked like a casting line at first glance. This caused the idler to tilt with injection pump pulses and hit the front cover. Mike

You've already been in the belt casing which to me points to it being somewhere else. The fact the clutch changes it can only mean two things, the crank is moving back and forward or the engine speed is changing with clutch use. As you don't have a dial gauge clamp a steel rule close to the bolt with a light below. You won't be able to measure it but you should see enough to eliminate end float. I suspect a 300 crank timing pulley is very similar to the 200 one and wouldn't be surprised if it would be a straight swap. Worth checking at the very least. Mike

It would require an IVA but not impossible. Mike