Blanco

Hey, looks like cracking fun though!, and you will probably remember next time

This thread got me thinking about my 130 again (currently sorned while we were moving house , country and seeing a lot of hospital decor) . My chassis cab pickup was built (previous owner ) from a 1999 water board 110 that had been rear-ended. I reckon it's time to find out what the score is so I have copied the invoices that were passed on and filled in form V627/1 dispatched yesterday to DVLA. Mine is a pretty 'standard ' vehicle in that all the components are in themselves standard just not very comm on to find a single cab pickup. Any way I hope the 10 year rule will help maybe, I'll report the result . I don't mind an inspection if deemed necessary .

To answer UdderlyOffroad's query, the pump can be activated with Nanocom I think, but some time ago I got the tip from another thread on here, which I just had a quick (unsuccessful) look for, the idea isn't new and isn't mine. All the Nanocom would be doing is directly switching the relay to activate the pump, so just remove the relay, substitute the switch and wander lead across the power out terminals and switch the pump on and off at will. Probably need ignition on, I can't remember. HTSH (Sorry for the delay here, I didn't see the notification on my phone, only today when I switched the old PC on)

Well, inexpertly I guess the obvious candidates are fuel starvation, (dirty filters damaged lines etc.) and just possibly the start of oil in the injection loom, but that tends to be more temperature associated rather than speed. Do you know when then diesel filter was last changed? has it been standing long? could there be a build up of condensation causing trouble in the fuel delivery line? Have you checked for fuel leaks at the pressure regulator? Have a scout round and come back with a bit more we can go on I think will be the general point of view. If you don't know the history of the vehicle changing the fuel filter is an obvious first step and may just hit the nail on the head. HTSH

I think the last lot were Mintex from JGS, the D2 brakes always inspire confidence, even if the trailer brakes are slow to respond. Def. go with the fluid change, its important. I made a wander lead with a switch out of bell wire to activate the abs pump it just makes life so easy.

I think it's just the evidence that the air conditioning system is working correctly, mine always drips like that, thanks to Bear though for the tip about cleaning the valves, I didn't know that. HTH

Are you keeping the twin wheel format of the axle?, what did it come from?, looks quite beefy!

Building a trailer,..... ah those were the days...... no longer supposed to in Europe unless you get it inspected, mind you I have been pondering a period axle! (in this case 'period' means pre-2012). Look forward to the evolution of this one, always impressed by your threads and work.

Can the fob be duplicated or replaced? (1999 td5) I have just returned to France after several months to collect the LR, trailer, tools etc. I didn't expect it to start and I wasn't disappointed, a new battery soon sorted that or so I thought. Once warm I stopped it and set about unhitching the trailer. That was it,from then on the immobiliser refused to cooperate. A day later (amongst other things) I have checked and cleaned all the fuses and the obvious and progressed to undoing the plastic trims around the ignition etc. now the funny thing is that the 'fob' thingy worked when touched directly on the small cylinder shape glued inside the lower cover, but still won't work from outside. I am told these things work on a unique frequency, can replacementsomeone be had? I have about 1000 heavily loaded miles to do which includes a ferry crossing and I don't really have much confidence in it at present. Any advice much appreciated. ...

I only had one stud actually sheared, but not quite detached, and enjoyed the full whistling symphony, .... my manifold was 0.6mm out of true when dismantled. The machinist made 4 passes to correct it (I think he said, ... more passes equals more money). I bought a second hand one, removed the webs myself, polished on a proper 'flat' and it was no better when fitted. so a few weeks later I refitted the re-machined original. The noise was little better when I had finished ; I went on to replace the turbo itself because I found a problem with the waste gate actuator and that seemed quite dear by itself, so bit the bullet and got the full assembly. It still whistles.... I don't know why. Bottom line is how does it drive? never mind the noise, it is a pita to dismantle,... but not really difficult, the blowing manifold (it probably is) can be cured but you can't guarantee it changes the tune.

Not able to post the link from my PC but search ebay for Agrover and turn up some unique bits...

I heard you can freeze them back to normality (-18) ??

Never had the problem, but first instinct says check the hose that collapsed for signs of delamination inside at the point where it happened, oil contamination is common and may have affected the interior?

Puts me in mind of Blaster Bates.......

I thought that Daan, only move it inboard... great opportunity to try out a gull wing door then?

More like XJ13 no??..... defo needs someone with MikeTC's skills to sort out the panels tho. I don't like getting down into a car anymore, can't see anything from down there, so I'm afraid its a no from me

Hoss, just having a look at your build thread this morning, I am not sure how up to date it is but you will need some sort of bodywork on it to register it, part of the process is a certificate for the 'carrosserie'. Also check out google.fr for Carte Grise VASP, most camping cars end up in this category and it seems to cover your case, lots of old unimogs and the like have these CG's. again HTSH

I have had some experience of DRIRE, and it can be very tough to know what to do and which route to go for the best. Looking back I think my biggest difficulty was getting the wrong side of the guy I first had to deal with. Ultimately I made the application from a different department, and got someone who was much more reasonable and I think more knowledgeable. Hopefully you live in a department where the DRIRE bod sees lots of different stuff go through. My advice is to find out where the DRIRE inspections are done, usually one day a week at a commercial testing station, go there ideally along with somebody who already has an appointment if you can get to know someone any LGV/HGV re-bodying for example. Wait patiently while he finishes with his mornings appointments and then (very politely) ask him to look at your vehicle and ask his advice on the best way to go. The difficulty will be getting the vehicle to him but insurance can be had at least for a time with a foreign registration document and sometimes just a chassis number. He is the guy who will process your vehicle and it is what he thinks that matters, he won't normally give you an appointment for inspection without a completed dossier hence the need to doorstep him. The big issue here is communication, understanding exactly what his advice is... absolute must (if your language skills are less than perfect) to have someone with you and write down the requirements at the time, if he will get him to write them down. The other possibility is to use the local Volvo commercial agent, get them to consider the vehicle in the same way they would for an LGV/HGV (in French VL/PL) re-body (i.e. box to tipper etc.) In this circumstance the chassis cab has a partial COC, and they inspect and check/test the after market body and fittings for compliance. Two dis-advantages here... a) compliance is up to date, so you may find that your lighting needs adding to for example. and b) tends to be more expensive, my only experience here is with Iveco and they demand €525+VAT just to start the process, you pay for workshop time etc. on top. French insurance in my experience don't really record modifications to vehicles, I have advised my agent about winches, winch bumpers, LSD's etc. as I would in the UK but they have never taken the slightest interest or ever noted anything on the file. HTSH

What about a length of flat bar material inside which can have all the threading, and clearance holes in the tube, simple and strong??

Just wondering TDG, whether this one got off the ground or the Locost won through in the end??

Yep, looks like something died on that paintjob! :hysterical:

Lacasito = Smarties by the look of that,... that takes me back, do they still do Smarties I wonder?

The responder is the cumbersome element there, what about a digital measuring device(s) like the estate agents use? no need to put anything under the vehicle then, and no risk of forgetting to deploy or collect.

On the tyre front, if you are off to Le Mans any time then it'll have to be a quality tyre so BFG AT (or MT!) would be my choice.

That looks like a great fix, always rewarding to think yourself out of a hole... quite a long 3mm hole to drill though, knowing my luck I'd have broken the drill doing that and doubled the trouble. Certainly wouldn't have attempted a 2mm hole, any drills I have would be way too short.