elbekko

Simple setup:

Mount the reel to the compressor? And bolt that one to the floor.

That's impressive. I used to work with a guy like that. 40+ years with the company. Had done pretty much every job in the factory except for upper management. Knew everything and everyone. He was in his 70s and didn't want to retire, as he'd just be bored at home anyway.

That should be perfect

Lockers also allow you to stay floating on swamp. Otherwise, it's easy to dig a hole through when a wheel starts spinning. That's how we sunk Mouse in Russia. Lockers, a winch and a bunch of extension line are your friend. And a lot lighter and less bulky than a ground anchor. Winch reliability is mostly maintenance - give it a workout every service and you'll be less likely to be unpleasantly surprised when you need it.

Yup, my cheapo charger I'm pretty sure killed a battery. And then itself. Very happy with the C-Tek MXS10 I have now. I have the extra bolt-on plug that comes with it hardwired in, so just plug it in and top off the battery if the car has been standing for a bit.

Grind out, weld up and add a truss over it like the 'muricans do?

Will be interesting to follow

Only if you jump out of it smoking a cigarillo and misquote the show constantly.

Fireball made a video about the impact of pressure on grinding discs a while back as well:

Not a chance at that price. The proper industrial units are 10k+.

The regular diamond discs do metal as well, but the sparks/chips coming off that hurt like hell when they hit you. I think the ones we use at the workshop are Kingspar. I bought a tin of DeWalt discs a while back for use at home, but haven't used one yet.

Could be Mammoet was just doing the transport.

Can confirm. My new car has a pre-heat function that works off the 400V plug-in hybrid battery. Heating the car from freezing to ~20°C takes more than the 1.7kW 220V charger can replenish, a good chunk of time, and about 4-5kWh from the battery. And that's on a modern, well-insulated car. A Defender would be... interesting, probably

Yeah, that looks more like an age-related failure. Living in a hot climate probably doesn't help with that.

Both - the RRC had a less than ideal coolant system layout with the header tank lower than the top of the block, so a huge pain in the behind to bleed. And then later with cracked heads/cracked block as well. The EGR sensor, indeed. A valve for bleeding there might be useful, yes. I wonder if some sort of "steam port" setup from there would be beneficial.

Looking at it here: https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-srb131-33258-6ra-12v-relay-2242-p.asp That seems to just be a regular 4-pin relay, in a different form. So might be worth upgrading to a more modern style of relay and holder? Like this: https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-1297-12v-4-blade-30a-type-a https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-248-modular-fuse-relay-housing-system/p-736-standard-relay-module

I'm not so sure about that. It's been about a decade since I struggled with the cooling system on my 300TDi, but I remember there being a huge air bubble in the cylinder head (about where the extra sensor would go), that didn't affect the stock gauge nor the level sensor. An extra sensor probably would've shown something was wrong, at least. The only way I knew then was if there was no heat coming from the heater - then followed by the low coolant lamp IIRC.

Yes, I've done it a few times. There are some *very* hard to reach spots. Last time I just had to fill in all of the valleys where the pipes come together, and I couldn't get in deep enough to actually weld up the holes 😕

You'll also be hard pressed to find any that aren't full of holes.

That's what I'll start calling it I've just been reading a bit on RAVE about how the later electronically controlled boxes work. They really are dirt simple, and it seems almost easier to just operate that one manually. There's 2 solenoids that control the gear selection, one solenoid that control the lockup, and one solenoid to control the line pressure. The difficult one is the line pressure, but that defaults to full pressure, so worst case you have some harsh shifts. There are some aftermarket controllers that would work as well (Haltech for one, which I'm still planning to use at some point - although I haven't collected it yet ).

Endmill that's the diameter of the cutouts, and put it on a rotary table in the mill?

Will be interesting to follow A TDi dragging a Pulse up Norwegian mountains sounds... moderately painful. So I hope the 2.8 improves on that enough.

Yeah, sucks Especially strange that the thermostat seems alright... Still should've let me come get you!

Would gouging rods be a more accessible solution for rough cutting maybe?