Maverik

Bravo!!! nothing like getting stuck in style!!! the deeper the better (thats what she said!)

Its a pain... I had a similar problem on my 90 the past few days, I've not had the problem of freezing bottle, but just the jets, been trying to think of a way to give them a bit of heat. With regard to washer fluid, i was using neat (-5) stuff and it was still slushy in the morning, I ended up draining it and putting in -15 de-icer fluid from a manual squirt pump spray, not exactly windscreen cleaner but its wet and gets rid of the salt and doesn't seem to freeze at the jets. Have been looking at heated washer jets (often installed in models of ford etc.) was thinking of trying to disect the heater element from them and attach it to my TD5 center jet...

you use disco/RRC brake calipers with 2 ports, allows you to hook up a idependant brake line to 1 wheel seperatly, allows you to just apply brakes to one wheel allowing you to turn the vehicle is a tighter circle usefull on tight trials courses etc.

hehehe, true true, I don't know why that tickles me but it does!

Haha, brilliant, well done! I have to admit also, my 90 is still expanding my horizon's with its capabilities! keep up the good work! Mav

Lovin it!

I agree with Ralph, I did some seat box repirs in said way. If after replacing the material you think it still feels a bit flimsy, I also bought some angle sections and tatically braced some of the sections (just sealed/rivited the angle against the plate), just always bear in mind where the ends of the rivets will sit, make sure they don't clash with any other bits underneithe the box.

Hmmm, the problem I could see is that 90's can buckaroo like one of those spinny buckaroo (hold on for your dear life) simulators. If you did flat bed it, be sure to put nice meaty achor points in the floor so you can strap everything down properly.

"student squashing duty"

To be honest I think it looks a bit hashed together... (maybe thinking a little one sided here) but lots of places debris can get stuck, specially in a riot situation... more thinking petrol bombs and the like, still looks an animal, but looks like they've rushed the bits such as that plate on the bonnet etc...

Yup I agree, on my 90 I have HD springs with a little lift and Terra firma big bores, really firm, suprisingly comfortable ride!

ok, do you have hydraulic fluid leaking out your bell housing? sounds like you could have got fluid on your flywheel/clutch from the leaking cylinder. Make sure you get a heavy duty plate fitted, also advisable to get a new clutch release bearing/carrier and heavy duty (re-enforced)clutch fork, by doing that you're covering all the bases for having to go in there again, if donw properly using good parts, it should last you a afair while.

What engine/gearbox? any history of when the clutch was last changed? do you use the truck for towing regularly?

Was was the condition of the drive teeth on your old starter? did you have a look at the teeth on the flywheel when you had thr starter out? (peer through the hole). Can you define "clatter" a bit? there really isn't a lot to go wrong with a starter system, especially if you've put a new starter motor on it. As stated above, check all the main earths, namly gearbox to -ve and actual -ve terminal on your battery contact.

Good question! well price is a bit veriable, depends on the truck I guess, but I don't have too many thousands. Ideally looking for a full re-build, looking for something thats relativly complete structurally, but something that needs a lot of time and attention to make good again. This would have been right up my street, but unfortunatly is wasn't a 110.

ok, sorted. Thanks for the suggestions. Crank arm retaining clip (inside the wiper motor drive assemblie) had broken and allowed the mechanism to go all slack and sloppy, transplanted some bits from an older wiper unit and it went back together ok. Things to note: 1986 era motor wiper park point is different, also swept angle is 114 degrees, TD5 era unit swept angle is 140 degrees - this was stamped on the crank wheel inside the motor assemblie. Laborious job to remove all the dash to get to it, but easy enough.

I've got a TD5 bulkhead in my LR90 with original wind screen wiper setup. Today I had the wipers on 1st speed, went over a small bump and they started to not fully sweep the screen. Now there is a good 15-20 degrees slack (just under half a sweep) its effected both wipers and they both still act together, but now when you put the wipers on they either over sweep the window (catch the rubber frame) or under sweep the window and hit the rubber on the bottom of the windscreen. I think i can eliminate that the cogs on the drivers are worn, or evn the drive wire, it feels like an end stop had moved/dropped off. Is there any common problems that happens to the wiper motor mechanism? It has been clicking for a few weeks and its had a hard life with the snow. Anyone any ideas, has anyone got any drawings etc of whats inside the wiper mechanism? Cheers Mav

Tiger seal by upol is very good sealant. with the benefit you you are able to paint over it. I've sealed my roof and bulkhead an all sorts of other stuff with it, comes in white and black as far as I know.

There is a quick connector for you reversing lamp just close to the actual switch, best accessed through your center seat box hatch, I don't have a handbrake indicator, but I'm guessing there is a similar connector in roughly the same location but closer to the handbrake.

I belive, whan I was pulling my 90 apart, that there is also a leg of the circuit that goes down the drives side wing part of the loom, I'm guessing its juts an alternative hook up point maybe for a LHD vehicle? anyways you could put an extension wire from that redundant point? save you a bit of hassle?

I know there are a few Camel trophy owners loitering on here so maybe they might have a lead? I've been looking for a Camel trophy vehicle for some time now but primarily I'm looking for a Camel trophy 110/Defender mainly to restore, I've seen one or 2 nice examples on the Trophy website and else where, but one can buy 3 decent defenders for the price that some people are asking for them, I'm guessing there can't be that many around that haven't had work on them so an even harder challange to find. If anyone has any pointers that would be great. Cheers Mav

I actually got the door really cheap as a factory soiled item, had a small dint in the panel. (fleebay) Swapping the bits over was relativly easy. the window "felt" slides are screwed into the frame using countersunk screw, it was a bit fiddly getting them out but not hard. the lock mechanism and handle just slip out when you un screw them. (if the door has had prior work - worth getting new screws for the latches) You have to be systematic at putting it back together as some of the linkages between the door lock/opener can be fiddly but again quite doable. I binned the old window slides as they where gone, ordered replacemnt ones from LR series. The door is a vast improvment on the Alu ones, the channel in the bottow is a lot more open so you can waxoil it, also got nice big drain holes to stop standing water. As soon as summer comes around I'll be doing the drivers side door too, and sell the Alu door on. Hopefully this will be worry free now.

Welcome to the forum, hopefully you'll get your problem sorted. Now from my limited experience I would hazard a guess at something like a posetive back feed, like you're getting +ve up your earth, I've got an 86 LR90 non mod the electrics are pretty straight forward, but I'm also guessing you have a 24v system? What makes me say its a posetive back feed is, the light circuit (on mine) is run from an ignition feed so shouldn't light unless ignition is on... and the reason why it stop doing it when you take the fog light fuse out because (on mine) there is "interlock" as it where that turns the rear fogs lights off when the lights flip to high beam, so your faulty earth path is somehow going through your fog circuit...? that could be total rubbish but if I was you I would get a small multimeter and start prodding things, maybe check your main +ve wire off the battery follow it to make sure its happy...

How could you forget, they are the coolest wheels about and possible the most expensive! one day I may be lucky enough to own some!