Simon Smith

Sorry to hear that, will keep my eyes open. From past experience I wouldn't rely on Surrey constabulary to have any interest whatsoever unfortunately.

I've never hurt an alternator by wading, but I see it could happen. Easy to test now you have it running, just stick a voltmeter on the battery and check that it rises with the engine running, can't remember what it should be but 14.5 volts rings a bell.

If I took my right boot off I would get a wet foot, it is a Defender after all Anyway I have hated the feel of every "fly by wire" throttle I have ever driven, they are all too sensitive to the slightest movement. No need to drive in your slippers witha Tdi and it's not heavy either.

Changed my wheelboxes by just taking the top off the dash, left one is easy but the drivers side was an absolute ******** to do that way, but it is possible, just! But since then I've had the same symptoms a couple of times where the grubscrew has come loose, so a little locktite last time should have cured that.

Yes you will need those too. It makes for a better joint in my opinion, easier to get together as the alignment isn't as critical and much easier to get apart in a few years time.

Uk ones are Terranos too, I found Ford dealers don't want to know when you ask for parts. The fault could be servo or master cylinder, doesn't it have a return spring on the pedal too? It's a long time since I worked on one so can't remember.

The reason for the different compression ratio is due to the size of the combustion chamber, nothing to do with the crank or rods. Simply the swept volume to unswept volume ratio. The swept volume is the same for all 2.5 ltr engines, petrol, diesel, turbo diesel or tdi. with Tdi head and TD pistons there is effectively no unswept volume apart from those vees in the piston and the piston-head clearance, hence the 200:1 compression ratio.

Never got mine that good no matter how much I adjusted it, certainly not enough play to worry about.

Actually a quick calculation based mainly on guesswork, I make the compression ratio 200:1 I don't think the starter would even turn it over! Direct and indirect injection on diesels isn't really like that video at all. I supose the direct injection is similar, but on an indirect injection diesel the fuel is injected into a "pre combustion chamber" which is a spherical chamber in the cylinder head which also has the glow plug in it, this chamber has a small opening which "squirts" the exploding mixture at the top of the piston where those grooves spread the flame over the complete surface area of the piston.

Agree with western, You cant use TD pistons with a Tdi head, it would give you about 500:1 compression ratio at least I would use the Tdi engine as it is standard.

I drove my old 110 home without the turbo connected once (who forgot to do the jubilee clips up then?) anyway although it felt sluggish, it was still quicker than my old 2.25 petrol S3 so I think it's perfect for a series LR. Also with the limited space under the shorter bonnet losing the turbo, intercooler and all those pipes would make for a neater and easir to work on engine. So Im in neither of your groups really, I love the 200Tdi as it is, but also think a well thought out 200D ( I thought the I stood for intercooled) would be perfect for what you want.

I didn't have any seals there at all on my S3, never gave any problems at all, in fact I'm sure that it helped stop the tractor seals leaking as the balls could breathe via the axle instead of trying to be airtight.

Why cut a hole? It won't be much (any) quicker than removing the tunnel, and you will struggle to cut it in the right place. If you want a hole for future oil changes then remove the tunnel first so you can measure twice and cut once, it might even end up in the right place

A bent steering rod and some seatbelt bruising after falling off the top of Peters Pit once. good test for the rollcage though

Only just noticed another feature it has, or at least mine has! If you push the screen wash normally it does the 3 wipes it always did, but if you press it quickly so no water comes out, it only does one wipe.

No, but I think you're about to tell us how to

Undo the release valve and pull the ram out, push it in again several times, has always worked for me. Also did you overfill it? If there isn't a large airspace the pump won't draw any oil in, a very common mistake.

Can't remember the size, but it's not a special tool. Just a regular twelve point socket.

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-BrakeRR.asp Unlike the standard brake, this is a "fit and forget" modification, and will hold your vehicle on any slope you can still get a grip on. Since fitting mine I would never consider faffing about with the original if there's anything wrong with it.

I imagine either the cable or the expander is siezed. With my 110 it was the expander, You need to strip the handbrake and clean and lubricate all the mechanism. Or better still do what I did and throw it all in the scrap metal bin and fit an X-Brake.

Britpart pedal rubbers are OK................................................Erm...........................................Just trying to think of something else..........................................No I can't.

My 265/75R-16 BFG Muds are 32" diameter, afaik the ATs are the same size.

Yes, perfectly legal for "off road use only" Just like many trials and safari specials. Doesn't stop it being a POS though of course.

I used the CTek XS3600 on the tractor plugged in permanently, I also use it on the Landy occasionally. It's new name is MXS 3.6 http://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Multi-Functional-4-Stage-Battery-Charger/dp/B004TLF4PC

Yes, mine worked fine with the gaiter removed, but the movement was loose, now it's quite positive, but still moves just as far. So I would say it all needs to be quite snug for it to work properly. Mine actually got so bad that it did the opposite once and engaged on it's own while going round a tight roundabout, scared the wotsits out of the woman waiting to cross the road when it decided to go straight on.