Eightpot

Tayna have a good range, I've used Numax for quite a while now, no complaints.

Hi Naks - I'm doing a long Kruger trip next month starting at Punda Maria - do you know of any interesting spots to stay north of Polokwane on the way up? Doing a couple of nights at Mapungubwe, need to fill a couple extra nights on the way up.

Very easy to make a quick adjustment on the timing, so long as whoever fitted the belt last centralised the pump nose/sprocket - Take pump sprocket cover off, rotate engine till you can slide a timing pin or suitable drill bit in the timing slot, hold a spanner steady on the big nut, crack the three 10mm sprocket lock nuts, then rotate the big nut 1 degree at a time (1mm or so movement on end of spanner), tighten sprocket lock nuts, REMOVE TIMING PIN & test. Turn big nut clockwise to advance, anti to retard. There's only a few degrees adjustment available so you can't get in too much trouble. If the pump/sprocket weren't centralised theres not always enough rotation available on the sprocket to make much difference.

Don't decrease boost pressure, more air is good. I would start by reducing off-boost fuelling be turning the grub screw above the diaphragm anti- clockwise, one turn at a time, test & note results through the range. I don't know how much the profile of the boost pins differs to the maximum fueling profile of a standard pin, but assuming its equal or a little more you shouldn't get too much smoke, that would fail an mot anyway. You may find the star wheel has been screwed down, I'd knock that back half turn at a time to see what happens - if still too much smoke after say three turns, swap the original pin back in.

I would expect the leisure battery to be sitting at over 12.6v, though trackers do tend to be quite power hungry especially if you leave them in an active mode, rather than dormant mode waiting for you to send a location request. Is the split charge actually kicking in? A bad diode in the alternator will create a slow discharge on your starting battery, might be worth checking out.

Just a slight aside and of no particular relevance on boost gauge hose connection here, just a passing rambling while it comes to mind- I've found a neat way to connect the gauge pressure pipe if its not convenient to drill the manifold and avoid using T pieces is to swap the FIP banjo fitting for the boost pipe, for a twin barbed leak off banjo from a 12J injector which is the same size and gives the extra outlet. Gives a short tidy run to the dash and you can see boost at the pump.

Depends on the part, but brake pads I'd rather hunt around or pay more if necessary, cheap pads can either squeal or make tons of dust.

I buy lots of parts for work and don't rate Bearmach own brand stuff anymore, they've gone cheap chinesy - the quality of some stuff is awful.

I've done a few thousand miles on the DTP nozzles now, no issues at all and running great. So far I see no reason to spend the extra on bosch.

Just a thought, but did you prime the shocks before fitting to work the bubbles out?

Not much to add that hasn't been said, but yep if you have a slow deflation just take it to a tyre place to check for an actual puncture or have the rim cleaned up. A rooftent shouldn't cause handling or tyre issues - 50kg is the equivalent of a small person sat in the back - not really a struggle for a 110 weighing in at over 2000kg, and the location of your tent is just fine. A small adjustment of tracking the wrong way is more likely to make it tramline, possibly a little too much toe-out.

Also, to make the most of a solar setup, place the solar regulator as close to the battery as possible to reduce voltage drop.

You need to add a solar regulator with a panel, this reduces the voltage from the panel to ~14v and should turn off the supply to the battery if it's over a certain voltage (ie being charged by another source) Or you can get one of the fancy ctek control boxes, but I've always got on perfectly well with a £15 solar regulator.

I've got a 2a and a very early military 110. Very little difference other than dash binnacle and the curly things. Also have an early 200tdi Defender which is a different beast altogether - I'll put early 90/110 and Defender as 4 & 5. Puma 6. New Defender still not a Defender 🤔

Body types DVLA record a vehicle body type for each registered vehicle. These body types relate to the physical construction of the vehicle but not the way in which it is currently being used. The key body type groups used are: ► Cars 4-wheel vehicles including people carriers and all passenger carrying vehicles that can carry no more than eight passengers (excluding the driver). Includes private hire taxis (PHV – Private Hire Vehicles) that are car based. Hackney Carriages are in the ‘Other vehicles’ group. ► Motorcycles 2-wheel vehicles powered by an engine, including Scooters and Mopeds, as well as powerful electric bikes: https://www.gov.uk/electric-bike-rules ► Light goods vehicles / light vans 4-wheel vehicles constructed for transporting goods. Must have a gross weight of 3.5 tonnes or less. ► Heavy goods vehicles Larger vehicles constructed for transporting goods. Must have a gross weight more than 3.5 tonnes. ► Buses and coaches Includes minibuses (which can carry no more than sixteen passengers) and all other passenger carrying vehicles with nine seats or more (excluding the driver’s seat). ► Other vehicles All vehicles not mentioned above. Includes rear diggers, lift trucks, rollers, ambulances, Hackney Carriages, three wheelers, tricycles and agricultural vehicles. Taxation classes All vehicles registered by DVLA are allocated a taxation class, refecting the way in which the vehicle is used and, in some cases, by whom it is used. It does not always refect the physical construction of the vehicle. In some cases, the precise taxation class depends upon certain vehicle characteristics such as engine size, propulsion type, emission rates, gross weight, number of axles or, in the case of public transport vehicles, and the number of seats. There have been many changes to the taxation classes over the years and the main ones are described later. Key taxation class groupings presented within this publication are: ► Private and light goods (PLG) This is by far the most common tax class, covering almost 89% of licensed vehicles. This tax class primarily consists of cars and light vans but can include other vehicles used only for private purposes. Tax bands within PLG depend on engine size for vehicles frst registered before March 2001, while for cars registered on or after March 2001, tax bands are based upon levels of CO2 emissions, with lower rates for cleaner vehicles. ► Motorcycles, scooters and mopeds This is a self-explanatory tax class, but excludes tricycles which are in the other tax band. The rates of tax payable depend upon engine size. ► Goods vehicles have a gross weight of over 3.5 tonnes and are used for carrying goods are taxed in this class. Generally, the rate of tax payable depends on the maximum gross weight and the axle confguration of the vehicle. Since 1999 reduced rates have been available for vehicles that create less pollution. ► Buses This category covers buses and coaches with more than eight seats (excluding the driver) used for commercial purposes. Vehicles not used for commercial purposes would be licensed in the PLG tax class. The rate of tax payable is dependent upon the number of seats in the vehicle. As for goods vehicles, since 1999 reduced rates have been available for vehicles that create less pollution. ► Crown and Exempt This group includes vehicles which are exempt from vehicle excise duty. This can be for a variety of reasons, including vehicles driven by disabled drivers, emergency and crown vehicles and vehicles manufactured before 1972. ► Other vehicles The ‘other’ group includes agricultural vehicles, recovery vehicles, general haulage vehicles, small island vehicles and tricycles. ► Special Machines Special Machines became part of the ‘Crown and Exempt’ taxation class with efect from January 2002.

Toyotas still break after quarter of a century - bet you can't get a new valve & head gasket for 20 quid on a cruiser though..

They can create as many laws as they like, but as there's nobody to enforce, report or prosecute it's a bit pointless. MoT testers don't have training, authority or support to instigate a prosecution, and I don't imagine a call to the police to report an EGR bypass will get the blue lights switched on.

Unless a rat has chewed through a pipe, I'd suggest the power steering box lower seal is worn and has been steadily dripping fluid out over 18 months. The ideal fix is a reconditioned steering box. But you might be ok with fresh fluid, you can add a little brake fluid to swell the seal, and just top it up now and again. Meanwhile put a bucket under it. Mine has been stuck in Johannesburg since march also with similar problems...

Get a set of spark plug testers, few quid off ebay - pop them on when you have a non-start episode and you can easily rule ignition fault in or out and narrow your focus. Just get four to fit on one bank is ample. What spark plugs are you running out of interest?

Just loosen the hinge brackets on the screen a little and coax everything into place. There are specific bolts for mounting the hard sides onto the tub which run through the short vertical tubes in the capping that the soft top sticks sit in - useful to get some of these if your sides didn't come with them.

It's much easier going from soft top to hard top than the other way round - you don't need to change anything, just remove the windscreen top rail and add a foam seal, then add seatbelt upper brackets and a tailgate plus hinges and latch striker. You dont need to replace the old tailgate antiluce latch panels, just unscrew the latches. To be honest though, putting a hardtop on is a bit of a downgrade in my opinion, there's nothing much to be gained by going hardtop but lots of flexibility and fun to be lost ditching the canvas...

I'm coming to SA in December, so if I can bring or return something, let me know.

I'd adjust it as first resort - it's a pretty crude device and they aren't accurate out of the box, never mind after being shoved past the baffles. 2cm difference in the height of the ping pong ball on the end of the wire is probably over 15 litres variance. The most accurate way to set the arm is from empty - just about to conk out of fuel - then you can choose where in the red you want empty to be, and it will naturally read full on a filled tank. If you do it the other way you won't know where empty is until it's too late..

Have you got a fuel return line plumbed into the carb feed? This keeps the fuel circulating and cool, avoids vaporisation.

Yeah just bend the wire down a bit. More important to know where empty is anyway..