Eightpot

I'm trying to remotely assist an overseas customer who's trying to fit power steering and we're getting into a muddle with what pump fits best to match his pipework- Would be real grateful if anyone with a 200tdi could either let me know which way the low pressure feed tube points on the pump, either the pump with the rear mounted reservoir feed, or the earlier side mounted one - awkward to get a pic but if you don't mind rolling underneath that would be awesome! cheers

Atlantic green isnt a BS colour as far as I know, so wont have a BS colour code. Pretty sure 'Light Green' or 'pastel green' used on series land rovers which atlantic green is emulating is a BS colour though. You need to look through the BS colour chips and pick the closest colour basically.

Chrome has a remote desktop facility so you can access your pc (and online banking) remotely.

I deal with a lot of South African land rovers and a year or two difference in spec from UK cars is quite normal, usually just the delay between manufacture and eventual registration after shipping or vehicles being sent as CKD and using up old parts stock in the build. Very nice one ten, I'd love one of those.

Any remaining holes will let moisture in through the back which will leads to bubbles in filler/paint after a short period of time- I've been experimenting with brushing a coat of fibreglass resin into the holed area before prep/paint which seems to stave off the bubbling.

Check both wires are connected to the pressure switch on the dryer and that one of them is powered when ac/thermostat switch is set to 'on'

You won't always see a big sign of damage on a head gasket. Did the pressurisation occur before the overheating? if not you may find you have a failed waterpump or blocked radiator rather than a gasket problem.

I've seen so much of this stuff, and being in the trade and sick of the dodgy practices going on I made a formal enquiry with dvsa to ask what the process was to report, or what thier process was to prevent it, particularly when people put mot/tax exempt registration plates on a later car. Long story short, they have no process, it's down to the police to prosecute. I sent the same enquiry to my police force, they will prosecute if made aware but they would need to see it on the road, though if it was on the road & exempt there would be no need to examine documents. And as they don't need to have an MoT examination that avenue is cut off as well. None of the agencies that should be preventing this are doing anything about enforcement, at all.

Have you tried bending the float arm up a bit? The variable resistor on the hed of the sender needs to travel all the way down to register empty - if the float hits the bottom of the tank first you'll always show more fuel than you have.

Make a small jumper wire with spades on each end to join the brown & white terminals on the back of the switch which will give you permanent ignition on (existing wires still need to be attached - uou'll need to use a piggy back terminal on the white end.) Put a simple switch in the middle of the jumper wire so you can turn ignition on/off or just cut it in two and twist the wires together to make/break if you want to go full bush fix.

You should be able to use one from a BMW also which uses the same or similar pump

The evaporator & fan on the standard unit is actually fairly small, but looks like a better job could be done of packaging it. The motor/fan unit takes most of the useable space in the footwell - I'm sure a more modern compact motor or remote fan could do just as well.

Always a fiddle to get them lined up and screwed in with the fuel pipe pulling it off centre, same as brake lines, and very easy to cross thread unfortunately- I never use a spanner till I've got a good few turns in by hand. If you have one of the old fittings with no pipe on, maybe try screwing that in to clean the thread up and do a sanity check. Patience, no force, no spanner till you've got a few turns on.

I have AC on my 200tdi and don't find it takes up any legroom at all? its the fan & evaporator unit in the passenger footwell that takes some space, but my wife has small feet so doesn't notice. The difficulty will be finding anywhere else to put it, bearing in mind it needs thick hoses running to the condensor radiator and pump without some major reworking of the dash - it might be easier to find a way to gain the extra legroom by moving the seat back.

The devil is in the detail with RRCs. A suffix 'A' increases in value from £1000 onwards & upwards if it has docs & vin plate, a salvageable chassis, any of the suffix A only parts, age appropriate engine/gearbox/axles, original trim, history etc. A lot of lhd 2 doors are later 80s/90s cars or French commercial variants which aren't worth very much more than a tatty 4 door. Very early 4 doors share 2 door parts, so can be worth scavenging parts from. There's a good market for clean undamaged interior trim, panels, and some hard to find parts like early overdrives, suffix A trim parts, door waist seals, seats & carpet - so if any of that is good in the collection it can add a bit of value, but conversely if the cars need all that stuff it will be expensive to buy. Basket case value I'd say 1000 quid on suffix A if it rolls, £500 each for the rest and you probably won't lose out by the time you've transported stuff, if he wants more you'll need to assess the cars better for age/condition.

I fitted a set of new Monroe Adventure on my 110 in Namibia last year at 9am on Monday - by 5pm they were in the bin after all the seals burst on a gravel track! My previous record for breaking shocks was five days with Terrafirmas..

I've had earlier 200tdi's that had the later 48 spline wheel from new - I'd say your column has been swapped.

Only fit the VDO, don't bother with anything else. They usually come with a new tank seal which is the only thing you might replace. If you're dropping the tank, be very careful with the clip in fuel pipes- they get a bit brittle with age, it's easier to break them dropping the tank and they are very expensive to replace. Probably worth labeling each pipe before removal so they go back in the same order.

Yeah, we're talking n/a here rather than turbo - but from experience the tdi's aren't immune to altitude problems either - I keep a 200tdi in Johannesburg which is around 1700m above sea level and performance is definitely lagging with much more black smoke till it drops down to lower altitude, but not in the same way as a n/a chugging over a mountain..

Looks like the gasket was clamped down ok, might just be an errant bit of carbon or crud dropped when fitting the head, or a bad gasket?

Yeah all other things being good I'd go with oil or water left in the bottom of a bolt hole - I always go round a couple of times with an airline to blast it all out.

I doubt the pin will be lubricated, but it's best practice to clean the whole thing with degreaser before you paint anyway as there are bound to be some surface contaminents left on from production.

Sorry, not sure where my heads at today, getting my numbers fuddled - I would not recommend a 1.3 box unless you're using 205 tyres With 235's or 7.50 tyres I wouldn't go any higher than a 1.4 ratio I was thinking of a 1.5:1 if you know whatvI mean..

Yeah I'd be happy with 1 3:1 box, especially if you want to go to Morocco etc - it's a tough climb over the Alps, Pyreneese, Atlas mountains etc and as the air gets thinner the power drops off even more and the low gearing will help a little.

Had to drop of a customers car & make the last flight home before xmas - never want to be that tired again..