Eightpot

Yeah if its for overlanding do get good gas shocks but keep the shocks/springs matched. And dislocation cones are useful-ish maybe, but you wouldn't want to make a dislocated spring a part of your general suspension geometry. I'd be much happier locking the spring to the hanger with hose clips than having a spring waggling round at the wrong moment.

Why not blank off the top hole and fit a side mounted pick up/sender from an early RR or a Defender? Eg PRC4510 - it fits in the same hole as the side mounted sender unit

Baring in mind new springs are around £30 each and new tyres are four+ times that, why not just set the springs correctly in the first place? NRC9463 rear and NRC9447 front should work well, but do you know what springs you currently have - do they have colour code stripes on?

Thats the red/white nrc4304 I think

This guide is always very useful for working out springs- http://www.bilashakaflowers.com/LandroverSprings.htm The early RR are only rated at 150lbs as the boge keeps the tail up - so with a worn unit you can go a little higher, around 200lbs and maybe a little extra spring length. It will sit higher with a higher spring rate anyway so don't need much extra free length to give a lift.

You need to work out if the boge strut is working first - if it's not you may as well remove it. I don't think 2" lift will cause a huge problem with the boge but it's going to be at the end of its range. Standard springs for use with the boge are easy enough to get, with no functioning boge you can use early Disco 1 springs which give a slight lift (can increase this a little more with the spring isolators) and compensate for the loss of the boge strut. I think 2" is a bit harsh on a rangie unless you're going full on off road look with it, but the britpart and bearmach 2" springs are good enough. If you aren't going full 2" lift the standard woodhead type oil shocks are fine, or britpart cellular dynamic are good for the price. Bearmach occasionally have some good spring/shock deals in the 'offers' section on thier website.

They don't clip on with a click, just push them down as far as they go and thats it. It's not massively robust but they tend to generally hang in there.

Imagine having to worry about your dash rusting away as well 😫

Thats the worst attempt at pretending to be a customer I've ever seen - the car in your avatar is even on your website 🤣

I've only known 2 paint codes for coniston: LRC570 (HYE) 93> LRC637 (HYJ) 98> The later one slightly darker. Just checked with my paint supplier, they dont have any other codes, so just go with HYE.

What arctic kit does it have? Second heater, rear radiators, waterproofed dash? It looks otherwise like a standard white fleet 110 with a nato trailer socket but no NATO pintle hitch.

After swapping BFG AT for Wrangler MTR you could feel the rolling resistance increase instantly and there's been a corresponding drop in mpg. I do like the MTRs in general though. Pretty much all of the aggressive looking tyres will hammer fuel consumption. Cross contacts, Grabber TR etc roll nicer.

Batch number is normal, I guess its just from the chassis manufacturer (Land Rover didn't make them). The chassis/vin number is no doubt difficult to see because of rust/pitting over 34 years - a bit of work with a brass wire wheel might bring it up.

Yeah, don't know if you've tried refurbing them already, but with new foams and covers I find them a pretty comfortable seat - chuck in a heated seat kit as well to keep the mrs happy. Easy to add extra thin foam sections here & there to boost lumbar or seat base if needed. I've refurbished many seats over the years, long term the exmoor foam does seem to hold it's shape longer than the cheaper Britpart, particularly on the base, though either is better than flat crumbly old foam.

Don't think advancing the injection shortens the event, it just brings it forward. From my limited reading, the injection event is shortened by using larger nozzle holes so the same measure of fuel enters the cylinder in a shorter period of time? Guess same applies for increasing the injection pressure?

They have to keep regurgitating Defenders and the RRC as they don't have any Land Rovers to sell any more and thier brand is slipping - surprised they missed the opportunity to launch a 30th anniversary Disco 1 😄

Lowest spec rack or tent? You can fit most RTTs to good roofbars or racks, with a hardshell you'd need to check it's braced fore/aft for fitting on bars. the carrying capacity needs to be at least 200kg (tent+occupants). If you go for something similar to a frontrunner rack, the legs adjust inboard & outboard to suit different roof widths, height of legs very important.

Quick observation on this - the dyno results started from backing off the fuelling, then adding the advance kit and increasing fueling so missing out a vital data point that would show if the advance kit was responsible for any improvement On my old Isuzu 2.8 conversion, which aside from more cc's is a very similar engine, the bosch VE pump had a timing advance solenoid built in - so I could flick a switch on the dash for cold starts and get a few degrees advance. Was hoping it would be like a superboost button leaving me pinned to the seat under acceleration, but all it did was change the note of the diesel knock slightly - no noticeable difference in power

Holes are in the same place, blocks/hinges are interchangeable - use the same gaskets

Is the car a 200tdi from the factory, or is it an engine conversion?

Hmm - will have 200, 300, td5, 2.8i and V8 Defenders in the workshop next week, might be interesting to try a little back to back comparison with an I/R thermometer on rad inlet/outlet.

In my old/new 200 nozzles? I think they're the same, 300 looked a smidge bigger but they're smaller than a hair so hard to tell.. After putting a few miles on these DTP nozzles I'd be happy to recommend, 15 quid+vat at Derwen Diesels. The old bosch weren't terrible to be fair, 150k+ miles on mostly African fuel so hats off, pretty good going. if the fairies had swapped nozzles overnight I wouldn't really notice, but the new ones run with less smoke under load and I've been able to turn the fuel up to where it used to be without chugging smoke out. Could really do with a good run to see if economy has returned - last trip through France had me down to 22mpg where I used to get 32.

If it's down on power for the usual reasons, might only be putting out 40-50hp and just not creating enough energy to heat that big lump and full width radiator.

So quick update on the DTP nozzles, seems a slight improvement over the old ones, timed run up a long hill dropped from 53 seconds to 53mph to 52 seconds to 55mph point to point. Fueling had been retarded a little due to excess smoke, seems to run cleaner now so will try again with a sensible tweak.

The brass nut is the locknut. The plastic body of the switch is threaded - undo the wiring terminals and turn the switch body anti clockwise till it's out