tacr2man

Serious Overlanding with an autobox is something you may want to reconsider. As mentioned in another post , cant tow start a auto ( some exceptions , but very limited , and some can be problematic getting it just right) Autos can overheat quicker , with drastic results , manual boxes easier to rebuild in field ( surprising exception Freelander with jatco can be done insitu from under front wing (personal experience ) Other minor reasons as well but 1st one is enough JMHO Off roading in comparison , above not factors generally , debatable which is best , more a personal judgement .

When you say nothing , but do you mean not cranking , or cranking but not firing ?

the snorkle for the earlier land rovers went thru the wing with a bulkhead type fitting (pipe with flange) . I put my aircleaner at the end of the snorkle on front of roof . This is one on wing but gives you the idea

It might be worth having a look on the caterpillar engine site , as IIRC there was a good bit about torque and gearing etc for RV's relating to different engine power

You will need p38 rangerover bell housing and r 380 input shaft. I suggest that you try South African Landy forum for what clutch/flywheel is used , as 2.8 i was built in defender sold in ZA .

Nice manners from a new poster, cant even bother to acknowledge the replies ?

That seems a suitable solution Going anywhere nice?

I would think that they would work quite well in that respect , as long as you have the ability to vary the air pressure either on board air, or lecky pump , also you need a guage that reads low as when not in use you need to keep 5 psi to stop pinching , the 130 helpers don't give the flexibility and ride of the boge unit.

No I am saying the no22 spacer/locator is steel , the airlift component is black plastic (nylon) Re kits the 90 kit is right diameter for 90 front or rear , or front only on 110 as the 110 rear is larger diameter re HD springs it depends on how much extra length the HD spring gives , as you dont want to over extend the bag excessively if you are riding around empty , but you should not have max psi in bags if that is case, the real risk comes when fully laden and air bags at max, and then you "jump" and go to full extension .

The later 110 V8 had a r380 in place of the LT85 santana.

I have airbags in the front , but 130 helpers in rear , since Boge unit nls , IIRC the top plates just sit there located in top of spring , but the inner spring is longer than the outer . The black plastic spacer is flat , when new , I had the top turned down to fit in front spring top hole. Its a rear set,for a 90 as they dont list a front set. Works well with the snow plough , BTW I have used dual shock turrets on front , so the shock is on outside now . I don't see why you couldn't just get one turned from ali bar stock , that would solve the fluidity problem , JMHO

My Hybrid 380 built by Ashcroft doesn't seem to be showing any signs of suffering so far

Is that 4.3 ton chevy the unladen or MAM ? Makes all the difference 110 or 130 300tdi onwards both physically capable of towing that either way. BUT 3500kg is max trailer 4000kg with active braking legally . You need to be experienced tow driver, not in a hurry , and avoid Austria ! This would be a better bet http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=137366875&isSearchRequest=true&grossPrice=false&scopeId=VUT75&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&makeModelVariant1.makeId=24580&pageNumber=3

The roads need to be empty as it was a 300mile round trip to get a BK Whopper for me , and you need a decent bull bar to handle hitting a Roo at 65mph !! Like anywhere there are pluses and minuses ps How about a 2600km vehicle recovery job!

Why not stick a M57 in a defender and have the extra power and a non electronically complex vehicle . It works for me

Might be worth checking connector plug for corrosion, had that with 300tdi edis type

The system became totally devalued , and that was one of the major reasons that VOSA got out of it , I have seen a Aston martin that was literally burnt to the ground in a barn fire , (So cat A crush only ) rebuilt as a cat "C" .

Have you checked the bulb ? The trailer light only warns that the indicators on trailer are flashing , nothing to do with brakes or side lights

try giving it a squirt of easy start , and see if it fires up , if it doesnt its got to be a valve timing problem , coz if the valves and crank are timed correct it will fire, even without any diesel injection . If it does fire then its injection problem , either no injection or wrong time totally . HTSH

Correct setting of the KD cable is essential to get the gearbox to change at the correct points , if not enough the pressure in the box will not be correct , if too much pull you will get high and hard changes .

I designed and had made a RTT about 30 years ago now , as you could not buy one back then , it was made of canvas and was built into a box type roof rack , the lid on one side became the base of the A type tent when opened , so it was 1.5 landrovers wide and went from behind front doors (on a 110 CSW) to rear , and was accessed by the roof rack rear ladder . The bedding was all inside , and it took about 1 to 2 mins to be ready for use, I later made an awning tent that went under the overhang , no poles as it was cantilever design. It was brill for use in Australia , and summer camping elsewhere , but wet weather use becomes a pita , as all the time saved is used later in getting it dry for long term storage . I sold it when I left Australia , and converted inside for 2 , for European travel , and long period , tug a caravan . JMHO but RTT , not best solution for long stays and weather in Eu.

On road , and off road suspension set ups are diametrically opposed so the best you can achieve is a fudge somewhere in the middle and then put up with the compromise . My 110 was a more extreme example of what you have , due to the extra mass , but i prioritised ride comfort on bush tracks , so after trying OME (in OZ when they first came out ) total rubbish , went to bilstein , and then to adjustable Koni , h/d low rate springs , and stayed with standard ARBs . Due to being a 110 its not as nervous on road, so the roll (considerable) is quite progressive and predictable , so can still hurry on road. The biggest plus in the suspension dept was the Boge leveler , unfortunately NLA . The firestone airbags work well , next best thing to the Boge , with the twin shock turret on front you can fit them that end as well.

Apart from their prodigious thirst , a lot depends on how you drive them , clutches are a weak point in trans , they are dmf and gets expensive . As above with rear s/l shocks , tyres can disappear quite fast as well , Forester not quite a big a risk as performance models , which can have had quite a lot of owners , I can say from experience of being a Subaru dealer in Australia that reliability from new is very good, although the intro of the diesel didnt do that rep a lot of good. HTSH ps road grip is very good , but if things get away from you you are usually going a lot quicker which is not such a good thing

1 st thing only a vehicle manufacturer can legally stamp a VIN on a chassis , having said that in the real world its slightly simpler to have a stamped VIN . In the event of it being subjected to a VIC it will be immediately evident that it is a diy job . This in reality is not the end of the world , as various other ID points will be used to corroborate the vehicle identity . I would keep the photographic evidence of the old chassis , and the portion of chassis with the stamped vin basically to prove its not providing id for another vehicle somewhere else . So put the vin on , and put it in a hidden spot as well in case the vehicle gets stolen. Land rover wont do anything for you BTW There are quite a few newish vehicles out there without stamped vin I wont mention the biggest offender , but its not a UK manufacturer

Avon rangemaster these were oe fitment on some defenders inc 130 there is a choice of some on ebay inc with 5.5 rims