tacr2man

In that time period there were no landrover defenders sold in ADR spec with other than V8 rover or Izuzu diesel engine an enquiry on AULRO will give you the exact details I think you are looking for .

There is not the problems you get with over 3500kg mam , as with those you are required to register the vehicle in the highest taxation class (for obvious reasons of evasion) . The mot class would be trickiest , although as far as I know there is no problem with having two classes of mot in force on the vehicle at the same time , it is done with class 5 and class 6 (psv) vehicles . If it was just a demountable camper then simple as it would be class 7 as it just carries a load on the bed (camperpod) . If your camper body also carried a scooter then you would still be class 7 as it would be a living van rather than a motorhome which is class 4 test. You need to speak with DVSA 0300 123 9000 and ask for small scheme mot test query . HTSH ps the C& U regs thing is irrelevant as all vehicles just have to comply with the rules as to their configuration on the road at the time . eg when its camper mudguards same requirements as when its flatbed. demount hgv have lighting on pod part and on chassis and marker boards on chassis so comply when not carrying .

you need to crack one of the injector pipes at injector , turn over and see if you get spurt , if you dont the inj pump isnt working

There used to be 2" ball or 1 7/8 " out there one was larger than the 50mm the other etc . , but what previous poster says is more likely , not fully opening coupling .

Foley specialist vehicles would seem to be the logical choice , they build this sort of thing all the time , They have a web site , where you will see finished vehicles . I have no connection with them in any manner . HTSH

Having even a small tank makes all the difference , I used a co2 fire extinguisher bottle 5kg , fixed to side of chassis it will air up even a 285 very quickly , I even used to do the tyres for the other vehicles as it was quicker for them to wait than mess about with lecky pumps .

Chaski , the question you are asking , is not necessarily being addressed by the answers you have received above (mainly) due to your location . "off road" in UK is a very limited duration activity , and mostly at very low speeds . I believe from my experience in Australia , and the similarity of travel where you are , that airing down will not be in the main feasible. Airing down is greatly affected by speed and duration due to the effect that both will have on heat build up and possibility of damage to tyre casing . Airing down can greatly help flotation eg in sand , and to a degree in mud , where it also helps with tread cleaning , these are both utilised at a very low speed. For normal travel on muddy roads , or hard stony desert tracks then tyre pressures are normally operated at very similar to tarmac highway levels, not for exactly the same reasons. In my previous answer to your question re tyres etc , I advised you of the limited possibilities open to you , and in this answer , I hope you see that airing down other than to get you moving again isnt an answer . HTSH

The major factor to address before trying to decide on a pressure is what is the weight each end ? The front will run pretty close to standard at all loads , due to the relatively small weight increase the engine being the major component . The rear is a very different matter . With 265/75 I have used 25 to 30 psi depending on how comfy I want the ride and if very heavy in the rear . If you are running empty (more or less ) in the rear then 25to 30 will work well . If you run partly loaded most of the time then 30 to 40 psi , if you are running well loaded then try higher pressures upto max load pressure (shown on tyre) to ensure stable handling . The best way to get the absolute accurate tyre pressure for any given load is a bit long winded but works well , start with cold tyres set what you think is correct pressure , drive the vehicle for a long enough period to stabilise tyre temp (say ten miles) Check tyre pressure , you are looking for a rise of 4C if its more then you need to increase pressure (when cold) by 1psi per 1C , if it is less than 4C rise then lower by 1psi per 1C This can then be repeated if required to obtain an optimum for that particular weight . HTSH

BFG Mt or any tire with high void self cleaning (in theory) tread pattern , and stay narrow ,ie 750x16 or 235/80 , you need to avoid flotation, the ideal is chains ! One set only, on front , or both axles.

I have been running a r380 and lt230 behind a 3ltr TDI BMW remapped at 420nm for over a year now the 380 was built by ashcroft with big bearing conversion , and has pumped cooler , and uses Redline synthetic , in a heavy 110 . doesnt seem to bother it at all , max temp seen hot day on autobahn up long hill 130c on the guage just over half danger level . As previous posters think axle is the most likely weak point if not full time 4wd from personal experience with V8 and large diesels in series .

Using tubes in tubeless tyres , can anyone show me the law that says NO , because there isnt one . It is perfectly feasible to use tubes, as long as you buff out the QC labels from inside the casing , as its the glue that causes the tube to perish and then leak . The only caveat would be on high performance car tyres , as it would reduce the speed rating , that is why on very high rated tyres you are not even allowed to do a tubeless repair. The point about using different sizes/diameters, on same axle eg a spacesaver is a valid one as it is specifically covered under con and use regs , so you cant just bung on any old tyre/rim combo HTSH

wherever you fit it you need to make sure its substantially secured as in an accident situation they are heavy enough to do a lot of damage !

You cant get much out of this engine at lower revs , it needs 1800 for the turbo boost to be optimising the torque , so realistically 2000rpm at cruise . I find this with my high geared 300tdi auto 90 , which is about 55mph for holding TCL .

M57 better bet , upto 2001 with dde4 ecu easy to get to run in anything , same space requirement as V8 . r380 box bolts straight to it with p38 bell housing .

The best , for a defender got to be a V8 , not a lot of sound control in a defender so a rattly diesel not a good choice , for pure torque from the word go , and adjustable with the accelerator pedal , no waiting for turbo and revs to rise. Reliable cold start no matter how cold, only downside thirst for fuel , but then if its getting the job done then its something you can live with. I remember when the stage 1 came out it was a quantum leap, the first landrover that I could use straight out of the box without wishing for a bit more power, in various situations . The LR diesels fitted in defenders just couldn't replace it , that's why I had to go 3ltr BMW TD . JMHO

agree with Aragorn M57 much better buy , 530d or 330d good source pre 2002 easiest to run in other vehicle . putting this engine with auto box or r380 and lt230 into an 88 might be a bit problematical due overall length of powertrain

Do they want a real commercial style defender , fleet buyers , dont want to pay top dollar, same as military , so profit margin is slashed plus they dont buy over priced add ons , unlike the public . The old defender/ series needed all those type customers to try and give it economy of scale , it needed run out to try and get some life into the market . The new one needs to be built as a commercial not a compromise , to be a true defender replacement ,as Davo says a 2litre with a car style gearbox aint gonna crack it . JMHO

Have you read this ? http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/vans/86062/best-pick-truck

I am in a public facing role , and its at least 90% for out , and as for the younger ones , my daughter says nearly all the people she mixes with are outers ! It also seems to be that the majority of people on the swath of forums (which are pretty diverse) I frequent are also for out .

The part of OZ that gets the best of both "countries" is Tassie , I always thought of it as a cross between the Cotswolds and Scotland in an area about the size of Wales but with the usual empty (non Metro ) Aussie roads . I didnt have the brass neck to charge as much as that for recovery , but it was well worth the bother , especially when using a defender to drag in a cruiser and explaining that it was OK to tow in 5th with a landy !

+1 I used a discovery auto brake pedal .HTSH

The Lt85 front diaphragm , tunnel and seatbase is different to the r380 , I had to go the otherway when fitting R380 to my 110 . A look at the parts book for NAS 90 might be answer

In the end one of personal choice , but auto plus point isnt long periods of no gear changing , its city type driving or may help cope with a disability challenge

It was really struggling before JC smacked the Luvvie type , makes me wonder if that was a non PC way out for him . In view of that i had not got particularly high expectations as I thought all it had to do was not be as bad , unfortunately sadly disappointed Though have to admit didnt watch the follow on which seems to have been not so slated . The Beeb should have had some cojones and picked Sabine to replace JC not CE who should have stuck to radio , having a fat wallet, to afford fast cars doesnt make you knowledgeable , his reviews in the MoS mag make that glaringly obvious . Will give em another chance next Sun , after that if its as bad , times too precious a commodity to waste.

I have two batteries sideways under the passenger seat in a standard 110 battery box , both are reasonable capacity 72ah 680 and 76 ah 680cca , there are various sizes of different amperages out there . HTSH ps have seen a double decker bus with a couple of 063 batteries clamped down