mickeyw

Good bearings incorrectly preloaded could easily be your problem. The LT77 may be a pretty small box, but as other have said, they've done many, many miles in motorway burning Discoverys in the day. As a get-you-by, have you considered buying a used box out of a known runner? I know it means two gearbox changes, but it might tide you over until a good remanufactured item is available.

another hypothetical interest here.

The budget green (Chyneema) Bowrope can been be seen on the bay. Says 10mm is good for a 10,000lb winch. I have had original 11mm Bowrope on my 9000lb TDS for many years. I knew it was overkill when it was fitted

There are a lot of Carling Contura II lookalikes on eblag. From what I have heard they are lacking in feel and finish. I used a 300Tdi Disco 1 sunroof switch for winch in/out on my 90. It's the same as a lecky window switches, and used on a Defender so blends in nicely. It just has a different legend in the form of two arrows.

I bought the Double S system for my V8 90 is 1994. It was a mere £165, and a lot cheaper than a decent quality mild steel version. That lasted for many years....in fact I think I may have sold some of the pipes to Miketomcat on here. ( I only removed it to fit bigger bore pipes for a 3.9)

I've seen many pictures of convertible RRCs over the years. The 70's and 80's were a boom time for a number of specialist converters of Range Rovers. As Nick has said, there was Wood and Pickett, but also Vantagefield, Townley Cars to name a few. Extra axles, garish interiors, soft tops and hunting specials were popular; oh and 4 door models before LR or Monteverdi got on the case. I believe a large majority were converted for wealthy customers from the Arab countries. Some more images here http://www.range-rover-classic.com/Home/land-rover-brochures/range-rover-specials/townley-ltd---uk

I've been considering some of these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/LEDlite_Modulars/index.html when I sort out my garage lights. They're really intended for suspended ceilings. They are super slim and therefore take up little head room. Because of low headroom I am always clobbering the fluros in my garage.

That looks very similar to the item used on a RRC or Disco, as that is what I used on my 90 and 110 when I fitted V8 Efi engines. It allows the exhaust to run below the upward kick at the outer edges of the crossmember.

Looks like it's still in production, largely unchanged. https://www.lada.ru/en/cars/4x4/3dv/about.html

OK, so I'm late to this party. I went round a scrap yard looking for such vent grilles. The only ones I found that were vaguely useful shaped were from a first gen Merc A-class. See corner of this pic. They are very shallow mouldings and would need glueing in. I've not found the round tuit needed to complete this mod yet.

Well it has the width between the wings which is a good start. Just needs the Defender style mounting tabs on the chassis added, given that it's a Rangey chassis. Last weekend I saw a Disco chassis with shortened 109 body grafted on. The chap had completely removed the inner wings, and used the Disco rad. This was sticking into the area behind the headlights. It wasn't the tidiest job but it seemed to be keeping his V8 cool despite the amount of swamp stuck to it.

Ditto ^^^ but mine was only a 3.5 A Defender V8 rad would bolt right in.....

Interesting that you've noticed the difference in glass curvature. I noticed that on my 1986 model too. When I first noticed it I thought it looked like there was a flat on the glass. Perhaps they're all like that, although I seriously doubt it is intentional.

Well as I said, it was a few years ago. They were showing their goods at Billing (don't think I've been there for at least 10 years), and I had a good chat with one of their guys. I daresay since then they've had their fill of people messing them around wanting all sorts of peculiarities.

When I enquired, some years ago, Richards were open to custom builds. Therefore you could ask them for a 109 leaf sprung chassis, with V8 engine mounts and your gearbox of choice.

Do you mean a chatter while driving along, or on taking up drive? If the latter I'd suggest you may have broken springs in the clutch plate. Alternatively as with my own experience of a heavy judder when letting the clutch up from stand still. This was due to a glazed flywheel surface, which required refacing at my local gearbox specialist to sort out, plus new clutch pressure and friction plates.

I've had one like this for years. The spout has a 90 degree bend that's ideal for filling main or transfer gearboxes. https://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/gear-oil-transfer-pump/TP67/ I also have a similar but almost antique version that I use for filling our tractors with hydraulic oil. I picked it up at an auto jumble years ago.

Sounds like it would be about 26 TPI then, which is very a fine pitch for the diameter. I had been going to suggest 5/8" UNF until I read the pitch. UNF for that diameter would be 18 TPI. Well whaddya know.... turns out 5/8 " x 26 TPI is British Standard Cycle thread or British Standard Brass (different thread angles on these two).... old as houses.....and Landrovers... https://britishfasteners.com/threads/bsb.html Can get stainless ones here. http://www.stainlessautomotivefastenings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4301

The ZF box will have M10 or 3/8" bolts. RV8 uses 3/8" UNC If you're worried about thread engagement into ally, fit Helicoils or similar. I'd also include a couple of dowels for good location of each side, then the screws can do the rest,

TBH I have an old Meddings like this, and I've not found the need for a lift mechanism. After more thought, I reckon one like this has enough weight in it to hold itself still when you lift the table. Bench mounted models are lighter and probably more inclined to move as you lift the table.

This is a tidy lift set up, but I can't see whether you have a rack and pinion or not.

Ditto. Can't see where you've fitted your no. 1 tool 😉

I have a pretty old SIP 6" grinder. I think it has a 500W motor. I would say it has sufficient power for sharpening drills and lathe tools. I'd expect 350W and under to be rather gutless for this purpose. I have a cheapo Screwfix belt & disc sander that has a 350W motor, and that really is underpowered for anything more than pencil sharpening. I found a video on YouTube where a guy takes his Harbor Freight belt sander combo (near enough identical to mine - they're all Chinese built) and adds a much bigger motor with good results. I think the motor cost him 100 bucks, but he felt it was worth the time and effort

Hamish, you're running auto aren't you? IIRC the neutral gear signal comes via the round plug that also has the reverse light switch wires. Is this connected/damaged/etc?. As a test or "cheat" you could connect the orange/brown wire on the 14cux through 510 ohm resistor to ground. This tells it you have a manual gearbox, and bypasses the neutral switch circuit. The fault you have shown will then be ignored. As an auto setup it wants to know when you're in gear so it can adjust the idle speed. Hope that makes sense.

Useful info for when I fit the serp front on my 4.2. Thanks John. Just a thought though, how sure are you the thread is M20? 1/2" BSP is near as dammit 20mm O.D. but it is a somewhat finer pitch.